Tehnation Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 ahhh... I need an intake.... what a gross oversight.... "I fell into a burnin' ring of fire I went down, down, down And the flames went higher And it burns, burns, burns The ring of fire, the ring of fire" -Johnny Cash $$$$$$$$$$ BURN BURN BURN !!! Do I need to go big maf? Any threads on this , I don't see any recent posts about it. Anyone have any insight on what to get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 Im going to want one that would work for my current 20g and the gen2 gtx3576r I plan to get.... I hope I don't have to do this twice.. I was thinking this https://www.grimmspeed.com/cold-air-intake-subaru-legacy-gt-05-09-outback-xt-05-09/ But now I need to look into when you need a big maf... or if this big maf thing is some old wives tale... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 For Subarus, I’ve only ever heard of the stock MAF and Speed Density. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 8, 2019 Author Share Posted September 8, 2019 a big maf is the stock sensor, but the intake tube is bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=535211 Good article explaining big maf setups. I will see what my tuner says. I probably won't need one, but i will most likely get one ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 An aftermarket solution for mafs rather than going oem Denso 197-6040 https://www.amazon.com/Denso-197-6040-Mass-Flow-Sensor/dp/B007WMG8A0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 An aftermarket solution for mafs rather than going oem Denso 197-6040 https://www.amazon.com/Denso-197-6040-Mass-Flow-Sensor/dp/B007WMG8A0 Has this been added to JmP's sticky up top in the 4th Gen forum ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonoftheBread Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 Are you going to use a break-in tune or just run it lightly on the stock tune? I'm doing a very similar build to yours and I was curious what the procedure is gonna be after the engine is together. Do you first get your 2k miles or so break-in done on the stock tune (no boost of course, driving Miss Daisy) and then have it dyno tuned? Would it be safer to get a base tune from Mr. Cryotune or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 24, 2019 Author Share Posted October 24, 2019 (edited) I have a base tune for break in, going to break in for 1k miles then bring to dyno, tuning alliance is like 2 hrs from me so they sent a base tune to get me to the dyno, so I probably won't wait until 1k, breaking in a motor doesn't really need miles, the main purpose is to seal the piston rings and flush out all the metal from new parts grinding, i will most likely just do the break in processes for pistons and cams and then go to the dyno, so the 1k i first stated is complete bullshit, i'll have it on the dyno in well under 500 miles.... speaking of which... i need to get back on this project! Edited October 24, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunshinespecb Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 Interesting to me you say this is an old wives tale but ever engine ive ever installed came with a break in procedure of 500-1000 miles. The shop here in Denver wont even dyno run your new motor until you have at least 500 miles on it. You would think the guys building the motors for a living would realize none of this was necessary. Even new cars have a break in time of at least 500 miles, for all the same reasons. Glad youve figured out there big scheme against us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 I'm just doing what the manufacturers of my parts told me. For the cams from BrianCrower: "CAMSHAFT BREAK-IN Brian Crower, Inc does not recommend using synthetic oil during camshaft break-in. If you must run synthetics during operation, even though we recommend that you do not, make sure the synthetic contains a high zinc content (ZDDP count of 1400 or more). Follow OEM cam cap torque sequence and specifications. Use a liberal amount of aftermarket engine assembly lube, again with the recommended amount of zinc content, during installation and assembly. Check cam follower or bucket surfaces for any abnormal wear and/or scuffing. On initial start-up and break-in run engine at 1500-2500 rpm for 20 minutes." For my pistons and rods from Manley: "Ring Seating When first starting your engine to ensure proper ring seating, do not allow the engine to idle for long periods at a time. It is a good idea to mildly load the engine as soon as you can. Highway driving is a good way to properly seat the rings quickly. Do not idle the engine as idling does not break in any engine. Manley DOES NOT recommend the use of synthetic oils during break-in. After 2000-3000 miles on the street, or one night racing on the track, the rings should be adequately seated so that any oil you prefer can then be used." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 so to me all that means, when i first start the car run it from 1500-2500 for 20 minutes, then i change my oil, then go drive on the street and beat the shit out of it for 50-100 miles, then change my oil, then beat the shit out of it some more, change the oil.... then it should be ready! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 I lost my hood stand thing, the rod that keeps hood open. oem part costs like 100 bucks. At that point I might as well get the ones with the pistons. Anyone know what the hell i'm talking about and who sells them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 I found this https://www.redlinetuning.com/product-p/21-36005-03.htm rivets... bleh... any other options? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted October 29, 2019 Share Posted October 29, 2019 I lost my hood stand thing, the rod that keeps hood open. oem part costs like 100 bucks. At that point I might as well get the ones with the pistons. Anyone know what the hell i'm talking about and who sells them? You are looking for "hood struts" and there are several companies that make them like Grimmspeed (not sure for the Legacy) and Redline Tuning (what I have). There are a few threads on here about them. Also, I have a spare hood rod if you want it; I'll send it to you for $10 plus shipping if interested. I have the Redline struts and I'm spoiled, I really like popping the hood and just lifting a few inches and having the struts take over, raise the hood and hold it. Some day when they decide to wear out and not hold the hood up I'll be mad about having to buy another set... but maybe not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 Did you have to use rivets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 (edited) Do you have the bushing that goes with the rod? How much to ship? My other car has hood struts stock, and I love it! No knocking it out while your working on the car and boom, hood is sitting on your head..... I hate it.. I think I nerd raged and ripped it out and tossed it somewhere.... found this, sent email to grimmspeed to ask if they have one. https://www.grimmspeed.com/hood-struts-subaru-03-08-forester/ Edited October 29, 2019 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 29, 2019 Author Share Posted October 29, 2019 The grimmspeed looks like it doesn't need rivets, hopefully they have one for our cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 30, 2019 Author Share Posted October 30, 2019 Question for those reading! Which way does the crank pulley spin? If your standing in front of the car and facing it! Is it counterclockwise or clockwise? I need to flush the steering lines and need to know which way to spin the steering pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 You are looking for "hood struts" and there are several companies that make them like Grimmspeed (not sure for the Legacy) and Redline Tuning (what I have). There are a few threads on here about them. Also, I have a spare hood rod if you want it; I'll send it to you for $10 plus shipping if interested. I have the Redline struts and I'm spoiled, I really like popping the hood and just lifting a few inches and having the struts take over, raise the hood and hold it. Some day when they decide to wear out and not hold the hood up I'll be mad about having to buy another set... but maybe not. How was the install? I hate rivets, but it looks like the only one that works for our car. Did you use their tool or some other rivet tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Do you have the bushing that goes with the rod? How much to ship? My other car has hood struts stock, and I love it! No knocking it out while your working on the car and boom, hood is sitting on your head..... I hate it.. I think I nerd raged and ripped it out and tossed it somewhere.... found this, sent email to grimmspeed to ask if they have one. https://www.grimmspeed.com/hood-struts-subaru-03-08-forester/ I have the rubber bushing as well. I'm guessing that shipping will probably be ~$20 because of the length, even though it doesn't weigh anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 How was the install? I hate rivets, but it looks like the only one that works for our car. Did you use their tool or some other rivet tool? Install was pretty easy, I wasn't crazy about rivets, but it's been fine. I used my own rivets/tool that I had so that I knew what the quality was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 31, 2019 Author Share Posted October 31, 2019 I have the rubber bushing as well. I'm guessing that shipping will probably be ~$20 because of the length, even though it doesn't weigh anything. sent! do you have the hvac vents for the dashboard? What other stuff did you have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 sent! do you have the hvac vents for the dashboard? What other stuff did you have? Don't have a lot left. I have the two outside dash vents (not the center set) A glovebox The lower dash on the drivers side The silver center console stereo trim Pair of sun visors End caps for the dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 I sent a private message. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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