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Independent testing of the Grimmspeed Intake


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So was the testing that Chase did not entirely truthful?

 

Not necessarily, for one every engine is different, next is other engine mods, but the bigger part is the base tune. If the base tune was setup to get maximum gains out of the stock intake, it would not be optimal for a different intake.

 

I personally saw great power gains from simply swapping in a custom intake and adjusting the MAF voltage without touching the timing map, but my timing map was not fine tuned to the stock intake.

 

Also I believe Chase made around 5-6whp on the Legacy they tested.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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Yea, so you ran out of resolution. That's when you're having fun. It would be interesting to see speed density with a stock maf, vs a big cai. Aside from over flowing the sensor, I would expect it to reduce power more as your setup becomes better.

 

There are big gains to be had with big turbos, intakes and compressor inlets. For example a gt30 with a 2.4" inlet vs a 4" inlet is a big difference. In the case of a vf52 you have a 2.4" inlet, so a 2.75" intake isn't really choking it. The filter elememt is a different story was a good lesson today.

 

Exactly, ran out of resolution. The 73mm would have been the better choice, but I got the 83mm in a trade deal.

And thanks a lot. I also have a 2.4" inlet on what's basically a stock location GT30. Knowing the larger inlet makes a noticeable difference is going to bite at me now.:spin:

 

Either way, since fueling is maxed, upgrading anything else for more power would be futile at this point.

 

Back on topic I would like to see how the stock airbox compares to a cold air intake on a bigger turbo setup. It's always said that the stock box is good up to 300 wheel horsepower before it becomes a noticeable restriction.

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Thanks so much for doing this testing and reporting back w/ so much detail.

 

How long was the car stationary on the dyno before the IAT effects started to creep in? It's been in the mid/high 60F where I am in NJ and I haven't seen IAT creeping up while idling & stationary, but where I typically drive I usually don't get stuck in standing/slow moving traffic for more than a few/several minutes before things get moving again. My daily weekday commute is 85-90% highway so I might be able to get away w/ the current airbox design. Might be a diff story in staging lines at a dragstrip though...

 

The car was stationary the whole time on the dyno. :). I tried 3 different fan positions, to try getting cool air into the fender. Pobably 3-5 min between runs. If you look at the road tune data i did get cooler iat with the stock duct, and gs box removed.

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Haha, I meant how long it was stationary/idling before IAT started creeping up :). I'll keep an eye on IAT (it's one of my AP gauges since my IAT sensor is in the underside of the IPR outlet end tank - a leftover from a SD conversion that I'm no longer using).

 

I'm hesitant to remove the GS airbox (and put the stock intake duct in) fearing that it'll turn into a hot air intake moreso than not... I think (?). Guess I could easily test this...

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I wonder what would happen if you left the airbox in place and taken the front bumper off.

 

Sorry, but think about that, who drives there car with the front bumper cover removed.

 

This thread is about real world conditions.

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I wonder what would happen if you left the airbox in place and taken the front bumper off.

 

Assuming you're talking strictly about the dyno, the results there would be similar-to-slightly-better results than using the stock cold-air without the box (and/or leaving the hood open and removing the box). The only reason the box hindered performance on the dyno is because it was impossible to get a good stream of airflow to the filter inlet. At speed on the street, there should be enough airflow through the underside of the car to get some fresh air into the fender well.

 

The real help here would have been fender vents :lol:

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Maybe I'll remove just the right foglight. I can pretend I'm running one of those drag Supras that replace a headlight w/ an intake/inlet flow stack.

 

I would look into cutting the wheel well plastic and maybe a little air dam to push air up, lets you keep fog lights and is stealthy too.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I would look into cutting the wheel well plastic and maybe a little air dam to push air up, lets you keep fog lights and is stealthy too.

Only thing about that is being cautious about water when its raining as your tire could sling water forward to that part of the fender. I was thinking about a duct to feed in there from the lower passenger side of the bumper.

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Sorry, but think about that, who drives there car with the front bumper cover removed.

 

This thread is about real world conditions.

 

For the purpose of Dyno testing. It would expose the filter.

 

 

Or

 

 

. MAD MAX

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Only thing about that is being cautious about water when its raining as your tire could sling water forward to that part of the fender. I was thinking about a duct to feed in there from the lower passenger side of the bumper.

 

Yup, but removing the fog will have the same effect. If you cut a hole at the bottom of the fender well, then put a 2-3" air dam behind the hole should prevent water splatter. Plus if it has another aerodynamic effect, similar to the tire spats by our rear wheels

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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I would look into cutting the wheel well plastic and maybe a little air dam to push air up, lets you keep fog lights and is stealthy too.

 

Only thing about that is being cautious about water when its raining as your tire could sling water forward to that part of the fender. I was thinking about a duct to feed in there from the lower passenger side of the bumper.

 

I was concerned about the water issue too. I just took a quick look under the car in the driveway. The wheel well trim appears to extend forward parallel to the ground from the leading edge of the wheel well, to meet the lower lip of the front bumper below the right foglight assembly. The flat area directly below the foglight assy already has a few drain holes in it from the factory. Maybe I'll drill a handful more in that area as a compromise.

 

For starters I'm just going to keep an eye on IAT when I'm in standing/slow moving traffic. I don't often find myself in that situation much at all, so I might not have as much to be concerned about compared to if I lived in a more congested/metropolitan area. In the summer and w/ the stock airbox, I had to be in standing/very slow moving traffic for more than 5 minutes before I noticed IAT starting to increase. I'll see if in my situation, I see IAT start to increase sooner/more rapidly w/ the GS airbox.

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Good to hear not much gains over an aftermarket drop in filter... Glad I saved the $300 and didn't buy into the hype! I'll put the money towards something useful like a better clutch.. thanks for posting these results!!

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Remove the silencer.

 

Yeah that's a bad idea my car stumbled and ran poorly when I did that for a day. Additionally it mad no extra noise.

 

As for the supposed IAT issue, I don't feel it's an issue when actually driving the car. My Temps with the stock intake wrench about 10-15 degrees above ambient. With the intake it shows about 4-7 degrees above ambient. A marked decrease, my tuner Travis at Snail Performance has tuned a couple of the GS intakes and made a point to mention how well it flows over stock.

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One test on one car by one tuner. I'm not saying anyone is wrong,or right, but You shouldn't get your panties in a bunch just yet. Keep in mind that this was tested on a vf52, which is a pretty small turbo (No matter what lgt.com tells you) that really doesn't max the stock intake. I would bet that a bigger turbo would probably see more benefit.
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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One test on one car by one tuner. I'm not saying anyone is wrong,or right, but You shouldn't get your panties in a bunch just yet. Keep in mind that this was tested on a vf52, which is a pretty small turbo (No matter what lgt.com tells you) that really doesn't max the stock intake. I would bet that a bigger turbo would probably see more benefit.

 

I don't think anyone's debating that. For certain, if the bottleneck of your system is your intake, then certainly the GS intake (or any other, less-restrictive aftermarket alternative) will help. But the point that I believe was trying to be made is that the GS intake won't magically net higher numbers over a stock airbox setup that isn't restricted by intake resistance.. Just like any other aftermarket intake where this discussion has been beaten to death already.

 

Now, if you're running a setup where you need a less-restrictive intake to achieve your gains, then for certain I would get the GS intake over any other in the market. It's very well-built/designed, and it looks fantastic. But unless you're at a Stg3+ setup, the stock setup is sufficient.

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