1-3-2-4 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 I’m trying to figure out how to remove the rear end links.. I think the nit is 14mm but it’s almost about to round off I think I have a tool for rounded nuts but I have to check for that size. I could cut it but not sure if I can fit my 4 1/2 cut off wheel in that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 As the wheel wears down it will fit in there, I used old wheels to cut mine out. Little right angle air tool. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 I think I still have a old wheel on it someplace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 I was thinking today my control arms with them being worn I wonder if that makes the ride harsh when hitting things on the road like a metal plate? It's just very bad at the moment.. Same goes for the rear but I was also thinking I don't think a end link is going to cure that and I was wondering if the trailing arm bushing is the reason for the swaying motion when hitting bumps in the road? I saw a post here about a person burned out the bushing and all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Do the rear sway bar end links first, much cheaper. I think it was "covertrussian" who showed that removal of the bushings. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 Do the rear sway bar end links first, much cheaper. I think it was "covertrussian" who showed that removal of the bushings. I'm sure you know I already have the rear end links? I already installed the new bushings it's just the end links.. I still think it's the trailing arm bushings which would be the bulk of the swaying feeling on road depressions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 FWIW, I have not replaced any rear end bushings yet, just end links on my 2005. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Now that I replaced my bushings in the front I get the clunking sound from the front left if the left side of the car hits a raised part of the road. Thinking about doing the front tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Well I installed the front end links last night I still have the sway feeling when hitting a bump at speed.. it's not as bad as before but I still feel it. What other things could it be with the side to side motion when hitting a pothole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 Have you looked at the bushings for the control arms ? are they visually in good or bad shape ? When was the last time you had the car aligned ? A repair shop with a rack may tell you what's wrong so you can fix it or have them fix it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 1, 2018 Author Share Posted July 1, 2018 Have you looked at the bushings for the control arms ? are they visually in good or bad shape ? When was the last time you had the car aligned ? A repair shop with a rack may tell you what's wrong so you can fix it or have them fix it.All that is worn I'm thinking next week doing the inner and outer tie rods new control arms and new lower ball joints for the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 In stead of just throwing money at it, unless you plan to keep the car for a long time and want to refresh those parts anyway's ... That's all bolt on but will need the alignment afterwards. Do you have a cool place to work on the car ? Damn its hot and humid now...all week long. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 In stead of just throwing money at it, unless you plan to keep the car for a long time and want to refresh those parts anyway's ... That's all bolt on but will need the alignment afterwards. Do you have a cool place to work on the car ? Damn its hot and humid now...all week long. Yeah I had torn bushings and just went full aluminum lower control arms. The tie rods are also next on the list. I'm not as far along as you are in the build so I been taking it slow any buying parts slow. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 3, 2018 Author Share Posted July 3, 2018 Yeah I had torn bushings and just went full aluminum lower control arms. The tie rods are also next on the list. I'm not as far along as you are in the build so I been taking it slow any buying parts slow. I'm slowing down a bit but still need to get this done before my wife has her baby in December lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 I'm slowing down a bit but still need to get this done before my wife has her baby in December lol Yea I see the reason for the big push before...the big push. Kids is why my car is still where it is. Wasn't for them I could have been 4 blown engines by now. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 I was in traffic going to the Lincoln tunnel and I noticed my oil pressure was up where it should normally be.. short back story I ran the first 13k miles on the rebuilt motor with 5w-30 and after that I switched to 10w-40 since I was unable to find any gallon 5w-40 rotella bottles first I noticed my idle and driving pressure was a bit better.. normally it would be right around 12-10 psi at idle.. Anyways I noticed while stopped in traffic it was showing me at 14 psi so I'm like wth.. I think my dash cam caught me saying that..at like 4k I'm just around 70 psi where before it was a bit lower.. I can still tell when the AVCS actives it seems to be a bit more active at a higher load at a lower rpm. I'm not sure what's up with the more normal readings now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 25, 2018 Author Share Posted August 25, 2018 About 3k away from hitting 20,000 I have got to do these bushings for the rear trailing arms the amount of side movement when hitting potholes or on the road at highway speeds while taking a slight turn and hitting a pot hole *that* has to be the worst feeling those bushings are shot.. but what about the one bushing that I assume would adjust the camber for the rear wheel I don't see a whiteline bushing replacement for that? Nevertheless the rear trailing arm bushing is that one for getting stuck? I would just cut it and replace the bolt if I have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 M sprank would know the answer to the bushing question. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 I have the right bushings those are going to be next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 When I was under the car doing the bushings I saw my passenger side CV boot was leaking from the band side that's facing the outer axle... plan on replacing the boot anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Here is from today I had to put on the spare *^%# why did I take a close up... the outer part looks just like the inside (showing tire cords but not as bad as the inner. the Springs are Tech S-tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 What tire pressures are you running? If both sides are like that you need to increase the pressure, but check it first. Jack up the rear end (both wheels), get under the car. Take a giant screw driver, and start wedging it between all the arms and other body parts and see if you can easily move them out of place, this will see if your bushings have a lot of displacement (need replacement). Alternative is take all the arms off, but that's much harder to do . First I would like to hear the tire pressures though . 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 What tire pressures are you running? If both sides are like that you need to increase the pressure, but check it first. Jack up the rear end (both wheels), get under the car. Take a giant screw driver, and start wedging it between all the arms and other body parts and see if you can easily move them out of place, this will see if your bushings have a lot of displacement (need replacement). Alternative is take all the arms off, but that's much harder to do . First I would like to hear the tire pressures though . 32 in both rears Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 That's not that low, though I think I did see low pressure wear on my 225/45/17 tires when I kept it in low 30's too. Anyway, go check all your bushings with the method I described, if they look shot start replacing with poly (my build thread has steps for them all right now, eventually I'll post up how to threads). After that get an alignment & print out. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 I have the whiteline bushings sitting in my living room I was just wondering if something else is connected to that. I think whiteline only shows adjustable camber bushings for the rear and I don't think anything else. screw it I think I'm going to replace the trailing arm with new as well as the control arms in the rear. I'm sure the rear toe bolt will be rusted so I might as well order those as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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