1-3-2-4 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 Sometimes I hear a womp womp sound when I around a small curve sounds like the front left. Now about my idle and misfire it seems like I have a vacuum leak I have to get down to it.. last I check it was showing a misfire on 2 & 4 the cel would flash at idle.. I know back before my motor went I had to replace one coil pack with new. The thing is i forgot which one was new but I just brought two used coils on eBay to that leaves just one that’s original. I’m wondering if my new plugs given with the old 850 cc injectors made the plugs too rich to fire correctly.. then I’m thinking my driver side OCV I did not clean them out again after the first oil change and I wondering if it’s messing up my idle sometimes my vacuum gauge when coming to a stop light it might be -10inhg then sits at -20inHg at idle.. before after I ran the motor for the first time I would have about -23inhg at idle and when engine breaking I would get about -28ihHG so something is preventing me from getting a good enough vacuum. I’m thinking the OCV at this point but sometimes the car will stall at stop signs or stop lights due to the vacuum being somewhat low when coming to a stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Ordered a new coil control valve for the drivers side I remember I changed the passenger side about two years ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Ordered a new coil control valve for the drivers side I remember I changed the passenger side about two years ago OCV? Yeah I changed mine when I got the codes just before the 1st turbo went and then the engine 5000 miles later. I got new ones both sides for the rebuild just to eliminate any more shortcuts to put me back in this situation again. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robburns201 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Question? How can i tell on Access port if 1.My injectors are working properly and 2. If i have a misfire? Sorry im not trying to hijack just saw you guys talking about it....Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Question? How can i tell on Access port if 1.My injectors are working properly and 2. If i have a misfire? Sorry im not trying to hijack just saw you guys talking about it....Thanks Which one you have? I'm praying it's either V2 or V3 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 OCV? Yeah I changed mine when I got the codes just before the 1st turbo went and then the engine 5000 miles later. I got new ones both sides for the rebuild just to eliminate any more shortcuts to put me back in this situation again. Well I did not have any code for it but if it's like the last code I'm getting a misfire on 2 & 4 and the lowest vacuum at idle would be about -20inHG normally (after I put the motor in) I was seeing around -23inHG at idle.. Now sometimes when coming up to lights it will be around -10inHG and rough idle until it slowly goes down to -20inHG again I'm about to change the coils on the drivers side but I might pull the plugs to check as well.. I mean I only have like 3,200 on the new motor right now but back with the larger injectors running so rich I'm not sure if it can effect the plugs that fast? Also vacuum leaks I don't hear any hissing but I haven't sprayed anything yet.. And last is to check timing again maybe it jumped a tooth I know before I cleared the code I got a over advance timing code stupid me cleared the code before reading which bank but seeing as 2&4 are the issue it has to be for the driver's side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 I had this on my wish list for like 5-6 months but I finally got a good deal on Amazon for the passenger side fog lamp it flooded with water so I decided to get a depo replacement new for $34 as soon as I got it the price went back up to $114 glad I grabbed it while only one was left in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 So I have the same p0021 code and the same p0302 and p0304 but I see the p0303 code popped up I will log to see what the cam angles are at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Yeah sounds like on left turns or curves I hear the front going womp womp womp turning right it’s not as loud but at this point seems like I will have to do it before spring. Also I heard that the front is harder to do then the rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 The bore that slides over the cam snout is divided by the 2 pieces of the cam gear assembly. The assembly can be misaligned slightly when reassembled, after tightening the cam bolt the misaligned pieces are forced on to the cam snout, making it hard to remove and will cause it not operate correctly and score the cam snout. I don't have any pics but it happened to me. So I have the same p0021 code and the same p0302 and p0304 but I see the p0303 code popped up I will log to see what the cam angles are at That was the code I got when I had created the above problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 My AVCS fixed itself now it idles smooth again I did a few high rpm runs and I came off the end of the ramp and no stalling or anything but the motor was so smooth I thought it died without shaking the car Going to upload the tune that TA sent me and log and get back to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 at idle off throttle that’s how I knew the cam unstuck itself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasted Potential Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 It's like you have a trans brake.. Building boost at idle, you race car you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 Lol here is a video [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJF3bPDxD54]Legacy GT gauges - YouTube[/ame] It pulls like crazy but my wastegate flapper is a little stuck sometimes it helped when I hit it with some WD40 but still not very free moving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 That was the code I got when I had created the above problem. When you took apart the intake cam gears? I still haven't done this yet. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 When you took apart the intake cam gears? I still haven't done this yet. Yes, the half that the belt drives has to be aligned properly so it is free to rotate on the snout of the cam. I had only driven less than 100 miles and it seized on the cam, hydraulic pressure is amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 At 5400 on the motor now going to have to get to that cam gear soon.. sometimes it’s correct and sometimes it’s out of sync with the passenger side.. Also about my keyless entry issues never trust a new remote to have a good battery.. it was the battery the whole time! Oil level OK! Wheel bearing has to be changed week after next.. In May I’m going to be taking a 320 mile road trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 Finally rolled 7k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 Finally crossed the 10,000 mile mark right now I'm about 10,382 now going to grab a little oil for a sample I drove up to the the Adirondacks about 3 weeks ago my first long distance drive it was about 5 1/2 hours and about 362 miles one way but it was a nice drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 Glad to hear things are going well. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 4, 2018 Author Share Posted June 4, 2018 I'm thinking about switching oil weights it seems it's hard to find 10w40 that's not some high mileage type. I think from the start the most scary part was when the car hit 30+ PSI because my wastegate got stuck closed.. It was so much pressure it blew the line off the back of my boost gauge.. it was off the scale when I saw it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2018 Share Posted June 4, 2018 I use Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic year round with their oil filters. Blackstone labs said at 7000 miles on the oil sample to leave it in for 2000 more miles and send in another sample. I just change it at 7000 miles or so. Join your program and you can save a little money on the oil. sounds like that hose was a relief valve... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 21, 2018 Author Share Posted June 21, 2018 Changed thread title OK time to take on this maybe bearing noise.. It's hard to tell I took video but Not sure if it's able to be heard over my exhaust. I think my stabilizer bar need to be changed out I think that's why any depressed storm drain on bridges (tappen Zee) it causes the back end of the car to sway side to side on each drain cover which feels very very skittish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Could be just a broken end link, a $30 part from Moog 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 22, 2018 Author Share Posted June 22, 2018 Could be just a broken end link, a $30 part from Moog Maybe.. I know I need to do my tie rods I’m not sure if it’s the inner with play or the rack but with the car off and turning the wheel you get a pop sound before the wheel turns. Plus my steering wheel is not centered when going straight. I ordered the moog rear end links first almost forgot to get the grease and gun for them. I hope that helps a bit. The front I’m not sure if it’s normal but my girlfriend with her being pregnant and the dips and metal plates on the road if you hit them direct on the passenger side its jarring to say the least. Not way when the car new would handle a bump like that.. I do want to change both control arms which is why I don’t want to mess with the lower ball joints at the moment.. Has anyone tried that company 23 tool to remove the lower ball joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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