boxkita Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 The one street mod autox i did, a Cadillac showed on Hoosier slicks. He beat me by 4 secs. If i waz going to try it again, id get slicks too. OP - still don't get the mod list. Tires are the biggest difference. Period. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 ^yeah. too much focus on things that dont matter so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Rattls I just got myself some KW V2's and RPF-1's in the same size as you and was wondering if you had to pull and roll your fenders. I'll be going with 245/40(maybe 45) tires. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Rattls I just got myself some KW V2's and RPF-1's in the same size as you and was wondering if you had to pull and roll your fenders. I'll be going with 245/40(maybe 45) tires. Thanks That + camber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 Rattls I just got myself some KW V2's and RPF-1's in the same size as you and was wondering if you had to pull and roll your fenders. I'll be going with 245/40(maybe 45) tires. Thanks if 17" do 40, if 18" do 35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 That + camber if 17" do 40, if 18" do 35 Thank you both :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 I was busy. What they said. My rear fenders are rolled, and front fenders are rolled and a little bit of inevitable pull. @Boxita and Tiger....again, I do realize the tires are the major dent in my performance..I'm currently working with what I have. That's the thing hahahaha. Finishing college to jump on a job, to racing, to then getting married, budget wise, I'm tight right now. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 You can pick up used tires all over the place. Theres a big group on facebook just for tires and wheels. Its a good way to try rcomps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 ...and he should try r-comps. Used tires are dirt cheap and great for autoxing on a budget. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 I was busy. What they said. My rear fenders are rolled, and front fenders are rolled and a little bit of inevitable pull. @Boxita and Tiger....again, I do realize the tires are the major dent in my performance..I'm currently working with what I have. That's the thing hahahaha. Finishing college to jump on a job, to racing, to then getting married, budget wise, I'm tight right now. Lol. So, I was wondering how much of an aggressive roll did you have to do. I was quoted $75 a corner for a "light" roll and then sealing the inside of the fenders with truck bed liner to protect the area. As you can see I want to know if you rolled them absolutely flat or only did a light roll since I would hate to spend 300 to roll them and find out it needed to be a little more aggressive. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 So, I was wondering how much of an aggressive roll did you have to do. I was quoted $75 a corner for a "light" roll and then sealing the inside of the fenders with truck bed liner to protect the area. As you can see I want to know if you rolled them absolutely flat or only did a light roll since I would hate to spend 300 to roll them and find out it needed to be a little more aggressive. Thanks Mine are lightly rolled up front. When you run this width and offset, the negative camber will get you really far from the fenders. The rears are rolled flat. Also, you may want to find some friends or something to that effect that can roll your fenders to save you some coin. Although rhino lining the insides have never occurred to me. Not a bad idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 Mine are lightly rolled up front. When you run this width and offset, the negative camber will get you really far from the fenders. The rears are rolled flat. Also, you may want to find some friends or something to that effect that can roll your fenders to save you some coin. Although rhino lining the insides have never occurred to me. Not a bad idea. I do have friends that can do it, 300 dollars is almost the cost to buy the rear control arms. The rhino lining I can apply myself (actually my father in-law can). If it was $50 I would go with the shop, just for liability. How much camber are you running in the front? Rear? I will be daily driving this setup so I want to maximize thread life as much as possible. I was thinking -1.5 to -2.0 on the front and the same for the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 i invested in the tirerack fender roller tool a few years ago. worth every penny, especially as you push the limits of tire fitment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 For daily purposes, I run -1.6 front and rear. Then change to -2.5 on race days on the fronts. Rears stay the same for the time being until I gather up Whiteline arms, and BC rear camber plates, and install the Whiteline bushings. I run full stiff damper on the rear when racing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 For daily purposes, I run -1.6 front and rear. Then change to -2.5 on race days on the fronts. Rears stay the same for the time being until I gather up Whiteline arms, and BC rear camber plates, and install the Whiteline bushings. I run full stiff damper on the rear when racing. I'm going with control arms for the rear. I have to slow down for now though between the cost of the KW and RPF-1's my wallet needs somewhat of a long break lol. Thanks for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted April 13, 2016 Share Posted April 13, 2016 i invested in the tirerack fender roller tool a few years ago. worth every penny, especially as you push the limits of tire fitment. Damn looks like they took the stickers off the eastwood one and lowered the price. Wish I had known about that before I bought my eastwood. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Eastwood fender roller is only $100 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 For daily purposes, I run -1.6 front and rear. Then change to -2.5 on race days on the fronts. Rears stay the same for the time being until I gather up Whiteline arms, and BC rear camber plates, and install the Whiteline bushings. I run full stiff damper on the rear when racing. Why? That's gotta be bouncy. I can pretty much guarantee that setting is way over damped for your spring rate....whatever that is. FWIW, when I had BCs I ran 15 clicks in the front and 20 in the rear. Anything else felt like doody, but even then they were pretty meh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Not too bouncy from my experience at least. I prefer the car to oversteer rather than understeer at the current moment (TIRES WILL COME SOON) so for that reason, it's setup the way it is when events occur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 There's still better ways to set up a suspension. I bet you'd have better results if you backed down the rear damping a good amount. Hopefully your tires come soon. Mine are still on back order. Next year I'm ordering in January. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 I'll keep updates up during this busy time of mine. I'm chasing a boost leak currently that robbed all my bottom end torque, and the car feels limp. Going to the shop today to track it, and correct it. May invest in a larger (non plastic end tank) tmic to replace mine for the time being before I can afford a GS TMIC. (Not opposed to FMIC yet.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garurumon Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Did you make your rear diffusers out of alupanel? Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 Did you make your rear diffusers out of alupanel? Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk They were made from aluminum from a sign and print shop a friend of mine works at. Currently working on a splitter. Actually, ended up also finding my large boost leak. Turns out...it was a leak, but the throttle body hose loosened up, and had a small gap. So whenever I was in boost (2400rpm), I'd hear a large whooshing noise below my feet. Took it to a friends place instead of the shop, and found it. Luckily, it was the one thing I suspected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 Quick question. I'm looking for ducts, and I want a good website for flexible inlet ducts. Any pointers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Quick question. I'm looking for ducts, and I want a good website for flexible inlet ducts. Any pointers? Summit Racing: http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/brake-cooling-duct-hose?ibanner=SREPD4 Pegasus: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=AIRHOSE Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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