Rattsl Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 Great! Thanks! Racing my car for this season looks like a dead halt to me so far. Instead, I'm co driving CAM-C for the time being, while I do some wedding things and paying for that stuff. I did manage to put some time in for a front splitter just for fun. Not as effective as Sgt.Gators, or Brents, but enough to smooth the underside a bit more rather than having a gap. Yes, I've thought about adding a dam in front of it, but seeing as the car is driven more on the streets, I don't want to risk it. Maybe I'll develop one that can "snap on" before races. http://i.imgur.com/OtXLE40.jpg http://i.imgur.com/kJgTuIf.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CKI06rV.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Cool, I'm watching how you mount it closely. BTW, don't use Quik-Latch Mini Latches, they will fail under pressure. They hold things on fine, but not if there they are under a lot of pressure. A couple of 818 builders tried using them for hood latches, they failed and their hoods flew up or off. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 I'll be doing a bunch of test fittings and find out what works the best. I'm gonna do my best and use the frame (using either custom brackets, or large bolts) to mount it to, and using as many stock location bolt holes I can find. Presently, there are two on the front, nearest the mid section of the car, where the OEM splashguard was. Those two will definitely be used. There is 1 in the middle, just over the front diff, and I made a panel that has two mounting holes. The rest I will have to search and see what parts of the frame I can use. The main area I'm most concerned about, is the front bumper. I have an idea how I want to mount it, but correct me if I'm wrong...isn't mounting a splitter rod on a bumper cover, really not holding much at all? There is no "solid" fixture for it to grab onto (say like an intercooler, or crash beam, etc)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 The bumper cover is not a great place if it's the only mount point in the front. My splitter is bolted to a frame I welded to the FMIC crash bar. That takes most of the load. There are two, and soon to be four, rods that are connected to the bumper cover. They have to be there depending on how far out your splitter protrudes. i took mine to the max for my class, but if you are only going an inch or two you might not need them at all. I know I do because i forgot to clip them in one time and my splitter bent down at speed and rubbed the track like crazy. There's an awesome system that Steve Clinton used on his STI, I'll try to find pics..... found it. Check out how he runs his brake ducts and quick remove front bumper - splitter assembly. This is possible if you have a TMIC, I couldn't figure out how to do it with an FMIC: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=29744784&postcount=36 and http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30076789&postcount=51 Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted May 20, 2016 Author Share Posted May 20, 2016 Sgt. I figured out I'm going to make a U shaped bracket (the bottom part being flat and not curved....a square missing one side if you will) and installing it using that. After talking with a few guys, 1 of 3 said that if the splitter covers the entire bottom of the engine bay (which mine does) it will overheat. Have you had any issues with yours, and if so, should I consider doing something on the splitter itself to aid cooling into the bay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Sgt. After talking with a few guys, 1 of 3 said that if the splitter covers the entire bottom of the engine bay (which mine does) it will overheat. Have you had any issues with yours, and if so, should I consider doing something on the splitter itself to aid cooling into the bay? Heat is the Subaru nemesis. There is a lot of "depends" involved on how much cooling you need. If you have a 500 HP your need is much greater than a 270 HP build. If you have a TMIC and a full splitter I could see having a problem. With a TMIC you probably shouldn't have a full splitter, but you can always start with it and if it overheats cut it back under the engine. Probably with an oil cooler and a 300 HP build you can run a full under engine splitter. If you have a full under engine splitter you will probably need a FMIC/AWIC/or V Mount FMIC and a heat extractor hood. And no matter which way, sealing up the spaces around the sides, bottom, and top of the radiator will help a lot. I used pipe wrap foam, roll bar padding, and a lot of duct tape to seal all the paces and holes around mine. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 How far back does this splitter go? The factory undertray extends back past the front axle. The factory undertray actually aids in cooling and intercooler performance. It creates low pressure under the car, which will literally suck air out of the engine at speed. Here's a good article with some explanation: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=112920 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 The width it about the same width of the car, but the length is just up to the front of the front wheel wells. Does not extend past the steering rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 That's less than the oem undertray. You'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 I did make sure to have large holes in it to allow at least a bit of airflow, but....such is life with aerodynamics, and positive and negative pressures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Update. Long story short, got married and have been building my marriage for these past months. Just today, just picked these up from a friend of mine and a thicker tmic. http://i.imgur.com/1oH8VnQ.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Long time no post. Anyways, ran the tires last month with -2.2 camber up front, and 0 toe. Rears were set to -1.6. Car fared well the first 2 runs with a bit of understeer, but as soon as I fixed the PSI front and rear, the car handled tenfold better. Placed 1st. Front rotors are shot, and instead of cutting them, I decided on just getting DBA 4000 rotors and HP+ pads. Since this post was also made, I added a Perrin inlet and had it retuned, and went from 218whp to 255whp...still oem tmic and intake. Next projects are adding Grimmspeed brake brace, and experimenting with engine bay cooling, while maintaining efficiency of the tmic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Didn't know I didn't post about the splitter. That was installed as well. http://i.imgur.com/BVwSHy1.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/Bp0vjXS.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/u9zx23v.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Good Job with the Splitter test! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Splitter test had to be done. So far, the heaviest weight on it has been 240lbs. All mounts are welded to the frame. 6 mounting points in total. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I would recommend cheap Rock Auto purchased rotors with HP+. You're not gaining anything for AX with expensive rotors, and those HP+ will eat up your rotors fairly quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 yeah, expensive rotors are a waste of money. get some cheap centric blanks from rock auto and go to town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 I hear you on that, but for some reason, I haven't had luck with blanks, and non oem pads. What I will make sure this time is that the hub surface is 100% clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Bad luck in what way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 Just felt weak and faded quick. My brother uses his oem blanks with Carbotech AX6 pads. He's doing well on that setup. Idk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 weak and faded is all about the pad. rotors wont really contribute to that. make sure you bed your pads in properly and bleed the heck out of your fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 I'm reading multiple sources on how to bed them in. Some are the same, some sources vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I've always done the 2x35mph>5mph and then 2x60mph>5mph and then drive around a bit easy to let everything and when having to come to a full stop easing off and holding with the handbrake if necessary. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rattsl Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 I'll have to try that again then. Just need empty roads late at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 just go on the highway and brake hard from 80-40 alot to get everything hot, just shy for getting abs to kick in. as you do this you will notice your brake feel come up to its proper feel. let cool down and repeat. just dont fully stop the car while everything is hot. what i like to do i get the initial cross-hatching on the rotors worn away so on the concentric circles from the pad are visible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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