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19mm rear sway bar install


Guest rayms69

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installed my 19mm bar today... 20 mins, lol, if you do I like I did at 500 miles the nuts came off by hand after one turn on the wrench because everything was so clean.

Results to be determined after a few long highway drives.

 

PS/ Tip, when installing the brackets make sure you lock in the bracket tab at the top notch. You won t notice the tabs until you remove the bracket.

Edited by cerbomark
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I installed a STI stock 20mm rear sway bar using its bushings and endlinks. Turning and corners have considerable less body roll. High speeds on highway is more stable and less swaying. Less correcting of steering wheel to keep vehicle straight. Definitely notice a difference and I highly recommend this mod since it's cheap and practical

 

 

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I just ordered my 19mm, so I should have that installed sometime this week. Looking forward to the decreased body roll.

 

I'm coming from a lifted tacoma where I would go nice and slow around corners, so being in an AWD car is quite the change. I'm having a blast going faster and faster around certain corners to see what this car is capable of.

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Received the 20mm bar today. Installed in about 30 mins. I did have to use a 5mm allen wrench to hold the endlink bolt to take the nut off. Short drive, noticed an improvement. Looking forward to more longer drive at higher speed and high winds.
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Just installed the 19mm. Took it for a drive and made sure to take this highway exit that's a really long circle where the recommended speed is 30. I hit it faster than that, and was pleasantly surprised at how stable it was.

 

As far as the install, that was a bitch and a half without any ramps or anything. Took me about an hour with a lot of swearing and I think a cross threaded bolt.

Edited by The Grey Goose
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I wish I were either 6' or 155#. I will take either one.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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It wouldn't be as humours if I use lose.😉

 

I am 5'9" and 169lbs, had absolutely no problem sliding under the duel muffler 3.6R without it lifted and installing the RSB with the Mr. Supervisor Sam controlling the process.😆

Edited by Yoda_One
Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul😆
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I've been driving two and a half weeks with a 20mm bar on my 2017 Legacy Limited. The car is solid and level on turns (like cloverleaf entries and exits on Interstate highways). I drove a month with the stock bar, and as solid as this 20mm is working for me I'd never go back.

 

This swap was a no-brainer. This was an excellent choice, and I can directly credit the conversation of this thread for my decision.

 

As an aside, I don't quite know how to compare 19mm vs. 20mm. I know their respective technical specs, but as to practical application to just tighten up an otherwise stock Legacy, either one is likely a good move over stock. As it happened, a 20mm was $25 dollars cheaper through my dealer than a 19mm. I was leaning towards a 20mm anyway, so that sealed it.

Edited by rhombus
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Just installed the 19mm. Took it for a drive and made sure to take this highway exit that's a really long circle where the recommended speed is 30. I hit it faster than that, and was pleasantly surprised at how stable it was.

 

As far as the install, that was a bitch and a half without any ramps or anything. Took me about an hour with a lot of swearing and I think a cross threaded bolt.

 

I did the same on the highest bolt on the passenger side. Even with an socket extension, the ratchet drives the bolt at a slight angle because of a crossmember preventing the tool from being held straight and makes it easy to go in cross threaded. I couldn't draw the bolt in all the way and being afraid the snap the head off, I left it like that. This attempt at installing it was done without lifting the car whatsoever but I was able to shimmy under the car to do it. FWIW, I had no problem doing the same mod on my 2011 Outback 5 years ago but it definitely has more clearance to get under there.

 

For my second attempt to install/correct the issue, I took the car to my parents place where I have my floor jack and stands and most of the quality tools including my tap & die set. I raised the car and ran an M8 1.25 thread tap thru the hole. It started smooth, hit a little resistance and then went in smooth the rest of the way. Once that was done, the bolt went into the correct thread and tighten up without a problem.

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I did the same on the highest bolt on the passenger side. Even with an socket extension, the ratchet drives the bolt at a slight angle because of a crossmember preventing the tool from being held straight and makes it easy to go in cross threaded. I couldn't draw the bolt in all the way and being afraid the snap the head off, I left it like that. This attempt at installing it was done without lifting the car whatsoever but I was able to shimmy under the car to do it. FWIW, I had no problem doing the same mod on my 2011 Outback 5 years ago but it definitely has more clearance to get under there.

 

For my second attempt to install/correct the issue, I took the car to my parents place where I have my floor jack and stands and most of the quality tools including my tap & die set. I raised the car and ran an M8 1.25 thread tap thru the hole. It started smooth, hit a little resistance and then went in smooth the rest of the way. Once that was done, the bolt went into the correct thread and tighten up without a problem.

That's what I'll do eventually. On base we have a hobby shop with car lifts and a plethora of tools and we can rent a stall for $5 an hour. Once I get my new exhaust in, I'll fix that too. Were you able to reuse the bolt or did you need a new one?

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That's what I'll do eventually. On base we have a hobby shop with car lifts and a plethora of tools and we can rent a stall for $5 an hour. Once I get my new exhaust in, I'll fix that too. Were you able to reuse the bolt or did you need a new one?

 

I was able to reuse it. The bolt was in good shape. If you do replace, make sure you use a Grade 8 bolt.

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Did the install of the 20mm w/bushing kit yesterday. The hardest part of the job was access to be able to use the 5mm Allen wrench on the left side to remove the stock sway bar. So swore a bit and did the right side first, which seemed to make the left side easier. The install of the new sway bar was far easier than the removal of the old one. No ramps, just the 5mm Allen, an open end 14mm and a 12mm socket plus torque wrench. Followed with a test drive, a Irish amber brew and a nap. [emoji58] I'll put it through some bends in the road today.

 

 

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Taps actually cut when you back it out. So you want to thread in 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then back it out. Thread in a bit more, then back it out. You don't want to try and cut to much as you can snap the tap itself. There's actually 3 types of taps. Starter, mid, and finish. Starter taps don't actually start cutting til almost 1/2 in. For your issue, I'd recommend the mid tap.
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Where are you all buying your 20mm sway bars from?

I still recommend the 22mm because of the weight of the car.. But its your choice.. You can buy from Whiteline, Perrin Performance Probably Subiespeed, Cusco even NASIOC Forum.. Any 2010 and Up WRX/Sti Rear Swaybar will fit..[emoji54]

 

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