Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Info on the motor in the LGT


Recommended Posts

I know that's what I want.. this car is clearly not on stock springs.. i guess I never showed you all how low it is..

 

My job requires me to be in regardless of the weather.. If the highways are open then we have to be in..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 205
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I love how everyone loves to shout YOU NEED A TUNE without really understanding why. I just washed my car and it needs a new tune because aerodynamics changed :lol:.

 

There are really only two mods that need a retune badly, Downpipe and Intake. Downpipe flows freer thus the car runs more boost at the same WGDC's, which is bad because you might lean out or run too much timing. Intake (not inlet), messes with your MAF scales and needs to be retuned for that. This of course is talking about a STG2 or less car, STG3 is a different turbo, which does need a new tune.

 

Going to FMIC by itself doesn't need a tune, but if the intake was changed (to make room for fmic) then you do. FMIC will allow for colder denser air, which would cool your charge and reduce detonation compared to a heat soaked stock TMIC.

 

See this Romraider page for more info: Tuning For Parts

 

 

Got the car.. no way in he'll it's stock.. but I have a issue.. I have big feet and each time I shift my toe of my shoe gets caught under the dash.. I might try to get a few shots of the car tonight but I'm a little tired

 

I wear size 10's and I know the feeling. It's weird, the seats are designed for very tall skinny people, but they expect a 6' person to have <9 shoes? :spin:

 

I think I'm going to go open source for tuning, I just need to get the cables and stuff.

 

Open source is nice, a lot of freedom. I like to be able to tune any car I want without being locked to just one ECU. But remember if you don't know what your doing you'll do damage, pro-tune is always a good idea until you learn what your doing.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I felt the need to search CL while out at dinner and I saw this guy had a V2 AP that's the SUB-002 and it's unmarried for $250 I'm looking to get it, I would say tonight but it's a bit late but tomorrow most likely.

 

I want to make sure first it's really unmarried, anyways cylinder 4 is very misfire prone but the codes I got pretty much answered my questions, also I get the P0420 which is due to the lack of cats, now my understanding is to get rid of that I need to put a resistor inline?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol these CL sellers they act like they never want to sell.. The first guy was like I'm waiting for you but in 5 min I gotta go back to work.. so I sent my phone # haven't heard back from him yet.. The other guy wants $50 more but lists a phone number but tells me to leave my number for a quicker response. . I did and still waiting like 2 hours later
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I will check it out today only thing is my intake is not cobb but the avo

 

I didn't say anything about Cobb, I said OEM or bust ;). Avo = aftermarket = need a new MAF scale to be safe.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are really only two mods that need a retune badly, Downpipe and Intake. Downpipe causes you to run higher WGDC's, which means more boost without dialing back timing and adding fuel.

Not quite. The turbine spins because of the pressure differential across it. Replacing the downpipe with a catted or high-flow catted item lowers pressure post-turbine, which causes the turbine to spin faster for same WGDC (wastegate duty-cycle) applied to the boost control system. Therefore, boost pressure will be higher for most rpm and throttle position combinations than the map calls for. There are several problems that spring from this. One is that load is tied closely to boost pressure and may literally go 'off the map', or increase to a level beyond the scaling on the factory maps, and since both fuel and timing are mapped against load you are leaving the ECU to just extrapolate outside the known 'universe'.

 

Another problem is when the turbo responds so much more readily to WGDC input, you can get into nasty swings of overboost, compensation via the boost control system, overshoot, overcompensation and overboost again... boost goes up and down like a yo-yo (even if you don't get into fuel cut) and the ECU cannot fix it.

Intake (not inlet), messes with your MAF scales and needs to be retuned for that. This of course is talking about a STG2 or less car, STG3 is a different turbo, which does need a new tune.

As I mentioned, the ECU calculates ignition advance and fuel injection quantity via tables that use rpm and load (in grams of air per engine revolution) as axes. Load is calculated from rpm and airflow. Airflow (in grams per second) is calculated from a sensor which sits in the intake pipe and the ECU basically guesses the entire intake flow based on what little bit the sensor can 'see'. If you increase the size of the piping, or increase flow in some other way, you can easily end up with a much lower load reading than the reality. Not knowing anything has changed, the ECU will then calculate for more ignition timing and less fuel than is appropriate, and then you're in all sorts of trouble. The way around this is to rescale the MAF to compensate for the extra flow. A Cobb AP is not likely to have a map on it with an appropriate AVO MAF scaling, unless a pro tuner made it. The standard AP Stg2 tune will NOT compensate for the AVO intake and you WILL run lean and with too much timing.

 

Question: How do you know the car is not currently tuned for the AVO intake and the front-mount intercooler installed with Opensource or ECUTek tools?

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The AP can of course load custom maps, but just like the Opensource route, you will need to have a tuner create that map for you. The maps pre-loaded onto a new AP are just generic off-the-shelf tunes for stage 1 and the standard stage 2 mods. For sure the AP is not going to come pre-loaded with maps tweaked for an AVO intake. Cobb tries to push it's own hardware.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing how this seller is not really responding I very well might go the opensource route with the tactrix cable it seems a used one goes for about $150 I do have questions about the tactrix setup.. it does live data and will show duty cycles of the WGDC? And OCV?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just buy a new one.

 

The OP2 does logging directly to a micro-SD card via a config file you have to write yourself. Normally we use it with the Romraider Logger run on a Windows notebook or tablet. That can log any parameter that is defined, which for most of the turbo cars is a very exhaustive list. RR Logger can also read serial data from many aftermarket WBO2 kits and add that to logs along with the data obtained via K-line or CANbus. You could head over to romraider.com and start your research there.

The other essential tool is ECUflash which can download and flash ROMs, as well as edit any ROM that is defined. There's also a good knowledge base on this proprietary software package on romraider.com

 

I have to say I'd have reservations about buying a car that has been run with mods like these untuned as serious damage may already have occurred. I'd want to have at least a compression and leak-down test carried out before purchase. I would also advise against taking this opportunity to teach yourself how to tune because you are not starting from a safe tune and then experimenting from there. You might consider getting the car pro-tuned straight away in order to safeguard the engine, or if you really want to learn to tune, buy a canned tune from a reputable tuner and then start refining that as your research continues.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to say I'd have reservations about buying a car that has been run with mods like these untuned as serious damage may already have occurred. I'd want to have at least a compression and leak-down test carried out before purchase. I would also advise against taking this opportunity to teach yourself how to tune because you are not starting from a safe tune and then experimenting from there. You might consider getting the car pro-tuned straight away in order to safeguard the engine, or if you really want to learn to tune, buy a canned tune from a reputable tuner and then start refining that as your research continues.

 

Its been said before, i said it before he purchased.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone have a part number on the PCV assembly? It's not listed on opposed forces, for whatever reason btw that site hates phones

 

*edit found it 11815AB790

 

However it seems like Subarupartsforyou.com does not have a listing on site so hopefully they can make one and I can pick it up if it's in stock today

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Time to bust out the compression tester, went to pass a car and I was down on power which was cylinder 2, got a new coil from the dealer and changed the spark plug (#2 had the largest gap out of the others) and last will be replacing the injector tomorrow, however I pulled the injector for 2 while the car was running and the car stumbled so I suspect it works, but then I've heard some here the screen get clogged.

 

Next will be vac test with a manual gauge and compression test, I'm really thinking about pulling the head off if I have to while the motor is still in the car, I have all the stuff to pull a motor with but I don't feel like doing all that work for just a few valves if they are bent/burned or whatever.

 

Another thing while I don't mind DBW it sucks ass because I'm used to controlling the throttle with the cable under the hood it's hard to do that now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol this is where I miss the wagon :(

 

At least it's not 16 F outside and trying to work now, Monday is my slow day so I'm going to hook the vacuum gauge up (What line should I connect to?) and do a compression test.

 

I have a fuel pressure gauge but I doubt that's the issue.

 

I do have to ask my MPG has gone down from 19.8 to 14.2 MPG is the car using more fuel for the misfire?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use