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Info on the motor in the LGT


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I was just wondering what the symptoms are if it's on it's way out.. for quick searching I saw rough idle and a code?

As Tris said OCVS are important. Symptoms are stalling and rough off idle performance at times it wants to act up. I was chasing it and finally killed the symptoms with this part change. No CEL provided a clue to the issues.

 

Other items have recently surfaced like cleaning the crank sensor and cam position sensors.

 

When I had a cam sensor CEL pop up on the ex while she and the kids were just over the grape vine. I was able to walk her or one of the boys through plugging in the AP and clearing the CEL.

 

Cel didn't come back and I replaced the cam position sensors.

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You can find a deal on the v2 since the v3 came out. Just make sure it's an un married unit.

 

This. You need a V2 SUB-002. Don't get the V1, too old and a waste of money now. At least the V2 is "technically" a current model, as, there's no difference in base maps or software from the V3; the V3 just has a bigger screen for more guages and stuff.

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Kind of a big deal. Mostly because it usually doesn't allow the car to start or run.

 

Did you happen upon this error during an ECU reflash?

:lol: jumping the gun a bit I don't have the car yet I just happen to see a car listing for sale with it showing on the gauge and I did some searching but I can't tell how common it is?
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:lol: jumping the gun a bit I don't have the car yet I just happen to see a car listing for sale with it showing on the gauge and I did some searching but I can't tell how common it is?

 

Oh. Well, then.

 

It can be anything from a low battery to a fried ECU -- Is that descriptive enough?

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For some reason 05-06 LGT's add 2.11* to cylinder 2 & 4 which are already detonation prone, 07+ tunes add 0*

If you look at the layout of the block you'll notice the knock sensor is located closest to cylinder #4. Since the sensor will get the strongest vibration signal from the closest cylinder, they thought it would be a good idea to advance the timing a bit on that one so that it would knock before any of the others. That way the ECU would be more sure hear the knock and pull timing. If the knock were occurring on (say) #1, it might be far enough away that other mechanical noise drowned that particular vibration frequency out and it went ignored.

It's probably a coincidence that #4 also has (on most models) the most convoluted and conflicted exhaust flow, and (on many models) is at the end of a daisy-chained fuel delivery system.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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crap still looking.. better deals seem to be in the outbacks it seems, I just missed a good deal on a '05 for $3300 a XT limited :-/

 

I told a Subaru dealership not too long ago I thought the price they have the car listed for is about $1000 too high and I just got a oh we replaced the brakes.. uhhmm.. uhmmm.. and she had nothing else to say with that..

 

The power seat control was broken which I hear is kinda common however I don't see how people step on it to break it?

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crap still looking.. better deals seem to be in the outbacks it seems, I just missed a good deal on a '05 for $3300 a XT limited :-/

 

I told a Subaru dealership not too long ago I thought the price they have the car listed for is about $1000 too high and I just got a oh we replaced the brakes.. uhhmm.. uhmmm.. and she had nothing else to say with that..

 

The power seat control was broken which I hear is kinda common however I don't see how people step on it to break it?

 

My power seat control is broken too. I was leaning into the car under the dash to do some work and accidentally kicked it with my foot..

 

'05 XT LTD for $3300? Complete car? How many miles?

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Jesus.. lol called another place they have loads of autos.. The manual someone just claimed. .

 

Im debating on a 05 with a blown turbo.. no clue how bad it is. . I know some are stupid enough to try driving like normal on it... it's $1800 but I don't know... If not drivable it's a huge towing bill unless AAA let's you upgrade early.

 

Btw i think it was an auto

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Wow, I guess these are the "low-end" of the market. The ones on here are all still $10K+. I guess they're probably in much better shape though :-)

They are in good shape here it's just they want to switch cars outbacks tend to go for higher anyways but about 90% of them are autos or tan interior.

 

I'm looking for one with a seized motor to swap

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When I hear about prices like that I always dream of buying one as a 3rd car and building it up into a track or rally car. And if I had the time for that, I probably wouldn't have the job I do which would let me finance such a project. Plus I really have nowhere to keep it - it'd sit parked on the street all day..
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ha I got a call back about a '05 LGT in ABP I guess the seller backed out or did not show, or the dealer just playing games to make it seem like it's a hot item..

 

I think it was 129K for $6500

 

I had my eyes set on a outback but did Subaru make any stock cross bars for the rails? I saw the price for the Yakima cross bars and I almost fainted

 

 

it would be mainly for my snowboard and later bike.

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They have stock bars but don't hold much weight. New the Yakima stuff is expensive, some may come up in the classifieds.

 

Honestly this should be the least of your worries. Motor and trans condition would be on the top of the list. At that age both are tired.

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5 speed is just as sketchy IMHO...Dealerships are in the business to sell.

Golden used car is finding that car a retired couple picked up and now can't drive.

 

Just saying be careful here.

if anything happened I'd just replace the transmission.. haha I can say out of everything I got from my 2nd gen outback I learned a lot in regards of tearing down the block and splitting the transmission case.

 

After I get my wagon I'd have to go shopping again for another wagon for my mom, I'm not sure if she wants the outback or the Forester but I know she's going to want the auto, and from what I hear the 5EAT is better but no one really says why.

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Personally the 5EAT has been a really solid transmission for me. I'm not easy on cars and in this case the motor needed work before the transmission. But I'm sticking my foot in my mouth. I'll probably just break in the rebuilt motor before a rebuild is needed for the transmission.
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I would be more concerned if it was an auto then a manual

 

5 speed is just as sketchy IMHO...Dealerships are in the business to sell.

Golden used car is finding that car a retired couple picked up and now can't drive.

 

Just saying be careful here.

 

FWIW, the 5EATs don't break like the ATs of yesteryear. My shop can literally count on one hand the number of times he's seen dead 5EATs, the majority of which were due to straight-up neglect and/or abuse.

 

If you drive it nicely and change the fluid regularly, you can expect it to give you many years of service.

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