1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 Plus that motor is 2L right? It would run so rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Plus that motor is 2L right? It would run so rich No, it wouldn't run at all because it won't wire up the right way. Or, at least not without a fair bit of rewiring/finagling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 No, it wouldn't run at all because it won't wire up the right way. Or, at least not without a fair bit of rewiring/finagling.I'm guessing the 255 heads don't fully match with the coolant ports? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I'm guessing the 255 heads don't fully match with the coolant ports? No, I believe there are guys on NASIOC running 2l with B or D25 heads, so as to have AVCS, however, that brings about a bump in compression that puts it out of turbo territory, or, at least, safe territory when boost is added to the equation. I was talking about that 2l longblock, though -- Would fit just fine, but, the electronics are completely different and would likely pose a challenge to getting it to run at all, on top of the tuning nightmares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 Yeah it would be more of a hassle to do all that plus on top of that less displacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funnyman06 Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Id run a stock bottom end, VF52 or 16G, good intercooler, fuel pump and a good tune. 300WHP and reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Dujo, what up dude, long time! The resistor is for the EGT code, not for the Cat efficiency code (P0420). And if you've used RomRaider, it's as simple as going into the CEL tab and turning P0420 off. So even if it would normally trigger the CEL, it won't, and it won't show up in a scan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 What about the OCV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Bunt valves, in my experience, were caused by too tight of valve clearance on the heads I have removed. I usually end up re-setting the valve clearance because they are too tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I keep a running list of issues with 05-06 LGT's in my build thread, some issues have been fixed with 07+ cars. I have a bnr16g + tune, and 5EAT. That eliminates most of these issues right there. Although I am butting my head up against the radio/AC control issue.. Did I read that link correctly for bearings, that I can basically just buy and replace the entire hub? Or just unbolt the bearing/replace/re-bolt? I would imagine buying the whole hub to be way more $$? No reason to believe I need it yet, but I'm at 106k, so, may need this at some point.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 So I take it the Oil Control Valve is not a huge deal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 So I take it the Oil Control Valve is not a huge deal? You asked a very vague question -- What do you mean? Yes, it's a big deal. It's the heart of the AVCS system and controls the oil flow to the cams. They're a wear item and need to be replaced every 75k, sometimes less. Can be found for about $90 online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 You asked a very vague question -- What do you mean? Yes, it's a big deal. It's the heart of the AVCS system and controls the oil flow to the cams. They're a wear item and need to be replaced every 75k, sometimes less. Can be found for about $90 online. I was just wondering what the symptoms are if it's on it's way out.. for quick searching I saw rough idle and a code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 I was just wondering what the symptoms are if it's on it's way out.. for quick searching I saw rough idle and a code? Yup, that's how it starts. However, unless you have a code specifically for one or both, your rough idle could be any number of things, including a stuck or clogged injector. Many people report better idle (and fuel mileage!) from cleaning or replacing their injectors. Have not tried [ame=http://www.amazon.com/AUS-Injection-MP-10933-Remanufactured-Injector/dp/B001AG6YG2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top]THESE INJECTORS[/ame] personally, but the reviews look favorable, considering. Or, see Witchhunter Performance or Deaschworks, both do injector cleaning for about the same price, however, both require downtime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Ah ok thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Have not tried THESE INJECTORS personally, but the reviews look favorable, considering. That's a pretty awesome price! Sadly some reviews are saying they have different pintle caps/pintle holes. Probably similar to what I got from GB Reman a while ago. Still don't know if that makes a big difference. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Injectors/CIMG1528.jpg~original 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 That's a pretty awesome price! Sadly some reviews are saying they have different pintle caps/pintle holes. Probably similar to what I got from GB Reman a while ago. Still don't know if that makes a big difference. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Injectors/CIMG1528.jpg~original Right? That, and the most recent review says they didn't come with the pintle caps, so, I'm kinda leery. Although, it's about the same price as having one's stockers sent out to DW or WH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I have a bnr16g + tune, and 5EAT. That eliminates most of these issues right there. Although I am butting my head up against the radio/AC control issue.. Did I read that link correctly for bearings, that I can basically just buy and replace the entire hub? Or just unbolt the bearing/replace/re-bolt? I would imagine buying the whole hub to be way more $$? No reason to believe I need it yet, but I'm at 106k, so, may need this at some point.. Its a hub bearing, you replace the whole thing. There have been a few conversions (2) to use sti bearings, however, its expensive and comes with its own set of bearings. I've used every manufacturer and they all suck about the same. High heat kills them faster. However, you can run them for quite some time after they start making noise, YMMV. For me, they started making noise after the first lap. I drove them until they were nearly seized. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Id run a stock bottom end, VF52 or 16G, good intercooler, fuel pump and a good tune. 300WHP and reliable. Uh, huh, sure it is. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Right? That, and the most recent review says they didn't come with the pintle caps, so, I'm kinda leery. Although, it's about the same price as having one's stockers sent out to DW or WH. Tempted to try them out, posted a question to their Amazon page about 12 vs 4 pintle holes and what kind of pintle caps are used (their picture shows OEM metal on their website). Did I read that link correctly for bearings, that I can basically just buy and replace the entire hub? Or just unbolt the bearing/replace/re-bolt? I would imagine buying the whole hub to be way more $$? No reason to believe I need it yet, but I'm at 106k, so, may need this at some point.. Correct wheel bearings are part of the hub assembly. Stick to good quality bearings like Timken. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Any thread around where about just pulling the motor? I figure other then the turbo it's pretty much like any other Subaru? I sure as hell don't want to be working on the motor when it's 16 F out again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Any thread around where about just pulling the motor? I figure other then the turbo it's pretty much like any other Subaru? I sure as hell don't want to be working on the motor when it's 16 F out again That's the only time my car wanted to beg for attention. Vacuum lines coming undone and turbo swap were all snow days. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 lol try pinching your finger when it's that cold out.. I was cussing up a storm, I'm so glad I had a wagon since I tore down the replacement motor to the short block and prepped it for going in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Plus everything is so easy to shatter. I was doing timing belt on my FXT while it was 24*F, never again.... 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Yes! If I knew I had a replacement I did not care if it broke lol.. but I had the coolant crossover pipe bolt snap... that was a bitch I had to helicoil it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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