cww516 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Yep, RacerX charge pipe is pretty much mandatory. Seems like you could probably cobble something together to make it work in the stock location, but I didn't have any luck doing so. If you still have your engine cover on, you'll need to cut a notch out of the side to fit over the flange, but other than that, the Synapse BPV fits in either push (see blklgt05's install) or pull (how I have mine) orientation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acumenhokie Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 Anyone try a synapse synchronic bov? Recirculating or vta relative to your tune obviously. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=210380&d=1433818778 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=210380&d=1433818778 This picture needs an arrow. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 This picture needs an arrow. Awww. So the 4th genner can't identify squat in the 5th gen engine bay. j/k. The Synchronic is pretty much just left of the middle of the pic on the charge pipe just in front of the ABS unit. The VTA is pointing up. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 Here's my stock cover with the area cut out to accommodate the charge pipe and BPV: VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Awww. So the 4th genner can't identify squat in the 5th gen engine bay. j/k. The Synchronic is pretty much just left of the middle of the pic on the charge pipe just in front of the ABS unit. The VTA is pointing up. I'm still a 4th gen newb, even on my 2nd one! But i love collecting this stuff. Ex Honda guy: Want me to build you a trans with Y21 1-4 gears, LS 5th, itr lsd, new synchros, and a 4.40? I used to do that stuff. Now i ain't got the time! Good description, I see it in the pic now. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 I once dated a girl that I had to draw an arrow for.... Relationship didn't last long.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 I once dated a girl that I had to draw an arrow for.... Relationship didn't last long.... Because she couldn't find your junk. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ljDhxI68_Mc/VDuc7Kzo2kI/AAAAAAAAACA/TWMnxpqwy0Y/s1600/kelso-burn.jpgBecause she couldn't find your junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Serving up burnt islandborn!!!:lol::lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 So my new turbo CHRA is tapped for an M12x1.25 banjo bolt. I purchased the bolt and banjo fitting shown below and I see this bolt has a 1.5mm axial passage. Do I need to enlarge this? It seems a little on the small side but I don't know what size the stock M10 bolt's passage is. I don't want to mess with it if there's no reason to, but I certainly want to make sure I don't have oil starvation issues. Thoughts? VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Pretty sure the restrictor is in the banjo (which you don't need), not the bolt. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 I actually checked with a pin gauge and the center hole which runs through the axis of the bolt is actually 1.5mm. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 If it were me, I'd open that up some. You don't want to restrict oil flow on a TD05/06. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Thanks fahr_side. Any recommendations on the size? I don't want to weaken the bolt itself by oversizing and I wasn't sure if there were any concerns with supplying too much oil (seal failure, etc.)? VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 The hole in mine was 4 or 5mm as I recall. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Is it just orificed at the end, or is it 1.5mm through? I almost wonder if it'd be easier to just pick something up on Amazon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) It must be the entire passage as I'm not sure how they would be able to drill it such that it only necked down at the end unless the drill was from the head-side of the bolt. Luckily, I have a rather large machine shop about 50 feet from my office and there are a lathe and a reamer that don't appear to be working too hard right now..... Edited February 15, 2016 by jackal8788 VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Problem solved: VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Guys, I feel bad that I haven't been able to keep you all entertained with the regularly scheduled programming, so in an act of sympathy to the loyal fans, The Panda performed another neat little trick: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/crank-pulley-failure-new-pulley-wanted-250240.html And you thought that the only way I could entertain was to provide random, disjoint, and inexplicable events that defied all automotive logic and experience? Oh no!! The producers like to have a little variety so this was one that took less than 10 minutes to diagnose. Stay tuned.... VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Could this in anyway have played a part into your original issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 Could this in anyway have played a part into your original issues? I don't think so. I think the root, root cause was a small boost leak that turned into a bigger boost leak that was partially exacerbated by TGVs that didn't want to open fully which morphed into a damaged compressor housing O-ring (what am I forgetting here) which led to me eventually switching out the turbo which led to chronic alcoholism..... Honestly, I do they they were unrelated and I am partially wondering if during the pulley install they used the factory-recommended torque (I can't remember but I thought it was maybe 35 ft-lbs) instead of the 95 ft-lbs specified by Infamous. VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLGT Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I believe it is 35ftlbs + 60° or as recommended by infamous 95ftlbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Let me tell you getting that extra 60 degrees is a pita. I did it, but man it was hard to do. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackal8788 Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) An interesting update, friends: When the crank pulley loosened up, I inspected the timing belt pulley as well and found it to be damaged around the keyway. There was also some minor damage to the timing belt so I replaced the timing belt pulley and timing belt. When I started the car, I left the housing off and noticed the belt seemed a little sloppy so I replaced the tensioner as well....and WOW, did the power come back on! First, the quantifiable objeective characteristics: My vacuum at idle was previously around 15" Hg. and is now at just a shade over 20" Hg. The idle itself is smoother (though I didn't notice it was rough before until having this to compare) and the car no longer backfires as it occasionally used to do when shifting between higher-throttle acceleration. Now, the subjective characteristics: The car pulls hard. Real hard. I'm extremely glad to have found this as I now fully believe things are 100% (less my new turbo and header being installed) but I'm still not entirely sure what I did that made the improvement. I don't think the belt slipped a groove but I'm not positive. It was stretched and tension was not good. Anyone have any thoughts? Would 1 or 2 slipped teeth be subtle enough to let the car still run reasonably well? Also, for those who are wondering, the header is complete and will be getting x-rayed for weld inspection, then ceramic coated so I should see it around 3/14. Edited March 3, 2016 by jackal8788 VF54 to 20G to VF54 to 18G build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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