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Jackal's 20g to 18g e85 Soap Opera


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In my experience there are only a few different sizes of bolts used on subarus, so a sticky would be a bit of a waste. 14, 12, 10, 8 mm wrenches/sockets can just about remove and disassemble the engine, maybe most of the car, lol. Maybe a Phillips head screwdriver in there as well. The only difference in the bolts is the length and maybe if they have a washer or not.

 

Not complicated at all.

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Turns out they are indeed M10x1.25.

 

Also (and this is really awesome since I've been able to enjoy the car properly for almost a week), as I turn in my driveway tonight I hear a 'ping' sound. I dismiss it and get the car on ramps to inspect and tighten the header nuts. I then see one of the nuts is completely missing. Holy shit, I think. I walk back to my driveway and sure enough, there's the errant nut. I proceed to begin putting it back on the stud and while tightening (not even to the point of beginning to snug, still just tightening), I feel an odd sensation, as though maybe the stud were turning. I index the end of the stud, rotate another 1/2 turn, and see the index mark hasn't moved. Okay, I think, keep tightening. I make a few more turns and start thinking I should be at the point of snugging and completing the task so I remove the socket and I see ~1/2" of stud exposed below the nut. I look at the other nuts which are tight and see only ~1/4" of stud exposed.....

 

So now tomorrow the header comes off and we will attempt to drill and tap to M12 in that area.

 

You guys thought this was just going to be the end of it and I would happily drive my car for months with no issues? A 54 page build thread would contradict that....

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Those studs screw right into the head you could probably take them off get some Loctite and put them back in, I had some on my sisters outback that came completely out, I just put them right back in the way they came out nut and all.

 

That wouldn't be dramatic though! :hide:

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Almost 50 pages (and let's not mention how many dollars) later, I got my answer :lol:

 

Not to continue inundating this thread with boring data and charts, but this does genuinely interest me and perhaps some of you will enjoy it as well. Here's a boost curve comparison between stock, the billet 18G, and the 20G. Recall that the 18G does also have the addition of a different header and the external wastegate so this isn't 100% apples to apples.

 

Note that we are still making a few minor tweaks to the map but it's pretty much dialed in. I'm having some issues with Virtual Dyno right now but when I have it working, I will plot out the power curves like I did in my previous post.

 

 

As promised, the updated VD graphs. See, look at all that power I got almost a week to enjoy :rolleyes:

Capture.PNG.eee89619b4995a50c4543e1a7d162347.PNG

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Those studs screw right into the head you could probably take them off get some Loctite and put them back in, I had some on my sisters outback that came completely out, I just put them right back in the way they came out nut and all.

 

That wouldn't be dramatic though! :hide:

 

The issue with mine is that the stud is actually pulling down through the threads, not just backing out or rotating so I think I have physically destroyed the threads in the head :eek:

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What about a helicoil to repair the threads and keep it M10x1.25?

 

Or a Timesert...

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-1-25-Part-1012/dp/B001JK0Z28]Amazon.com: TIME-SERT Metric Kit M10 x 1.25 Part # 1012: Automotive[/ame]

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So I was planning to use a Keensert that would maintain the M10x1.25 thread for the stud, but it required the head to be tapped to M14. I think it would work well (read some good reviews of them in this application on other forums) but my only concern was drilling out that stud bore to tap M14 thread. Am I going to be getting too close to the cooling jacket?
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They are solid, but expensive. It is a pretty fool-proof kit though. I had to buy one for the head bolts on my forester, I stripped a couple of them out...$500 for the kit and inserts. The machine shop I used did the repair in exchange for the kit, and even fixed a second time when one pulled out. I didn't use the block after that though, it's still in my shed.
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They are solid, but expensive. It is a pretty fool-proof kit though. I had to buy one for the head bolts on my forester, I stripped a couple of them out...$500 for the kit and inserts. The machine shop I used did the repair in exchange for the kit, and even fixed a second time when one pulled out. I didn't use the block after that though, it's still in my shed.

 

You just unknowingly penned the next episode. DOH!!!

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I hate to disappoint GT but it seems that the Time-Sert was effective! Everything is back together now so after a short drive and time to let everything cool off, I will be re-torquing all nuts. I also ordered a set of copper exhaust lock nuts so when they arrive, I'll be installing those and hoping like hell I can stop generating new and amazing posts in this saga, at least for a couple weeks ;)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Folks, today was almost a day where I could have added some potentially major drama to bust up the monotony of the last 3 weeks. On my way in to work travelling at ~60 MPH, the Camaro in front of me suddenly veered hard to the right. Before I even had time to react or see why, I caught a glimpse of something black zip under my car and heard a resounding 'clang' as it connected with the skid plate, then the sound of it dragging as I slowed down.

 

I pulled over and inspected the car - no damage to the bumper cover whatsoever and other than a healthy gouge and small dent in the skid plate, no sign than anything happened. Had I not upgraded to the Primitive plate (3/16"), I could have possibly destroyed better than $2500 worth of goodies.

 

Primitive Racing FTW!!!

719195714_2016-05-1606_20_26.thumb.jpg.7f615e41720c85b6c8babc979f01830f.jpg

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Folks, today was almost a day where I could have added some potentially major drama to bust up the monotony of the last 3 weeks. On my way in to work travelling at ~60 MPH, the Camaro in front of me suddenly veered hard to the right. Before I even had time to react or see why, I caught a glimpse of something black zip under my car and heard a resounding 'clang' as it connected with the skid plate, then the sound of it dragging as I slowed down.

 

I pulled over and inspected the car - no damage to the bumper cover whatsoever and other than a healthy gouge and small dent in the skid plate, no sign than anything happened. Had I not upgraded to the Primitive plate (3/16"), I could have possibly destroyed better than $2500 worth of goodies.

 

Primitive Racing FTW!!!

 

Bullet dodged! Or... stopped? Gotta love when a mod does its job as intended :cool:

 

You must've been following that Camaro pretty close!

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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