BigBopper Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 To those of you who are curious about the fluid damper valve located inside the Operating (Slave) Cylinder, I grabbed a few pictures. Mechanically, it appears to allow fluid into the lower piston/push rod cylinder faster as you depress the clutch pedal, and slower as the clutch pedal is released. Notice the black (washer like) piece that is attached to the perforated round metal disc, on it's back side. This seems to serve as a check valve for the outer ring of drilled holes on the metal disc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 Nice Bopper. I'm gonna add that to the OP if you don't mind. Just gotta get to a computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Or would it be better to start a separate "GT Slave Damper Delete" thread? Curious if there is any additional benefit in clutch feel above and beyond the delete of the main damper. Let us know Bopper. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 I figured we'd keep it in one thread. I was gonna ask a mod to add another post after OP with this info for the GT. Though it hasn't been confirmed yet I think the best way to delete the slave part would be to get a 2.5i slave much like the Sti/wrx guys using Impreza 2.5i slaves. From pics of the gt slave there is a few extra turns in the slave that the 2.5i one doesn't have. Mine is a straight shot off the rubber line through the slave into the mechanical part pressing on the release bearing fork. Minimal resistance in the gt slave but still not a straight shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Is this a 5th gen only thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Yep cool kids only ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 damnit , i'll go sit in the corner.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Big bopper - yup that's the stuff they pulled from mine. Much better Picts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted June 14, 2014 Author Share Posted June 14, 2014 damnit , i'll go sit in the corner.... Especially with the Giants avatar. Lol jk. Damn Giants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 The Giants.......sigh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Anyone getting a weird noise after install >3k rpm when clutch gets depressed rapidly? I think i need to rebleed my clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 (edited) Twice I have gotten a very brief TOB howl, at low RPM, starting off from a stop, but its probably from clutch dust material getting into the bearing. It has happened 2 times since the delete. That is all I have noticed. Prior to the delete I would get a bad pedal vibration every so often when the clutch was engaged, sometimes it would last for a day. It felt like my foot was on a paint can shaker. Usually it would go away if I popped the clutch (in neutral) several times in a row, but not always. And I also got a TOB squeal several times that sometimes wouldn't go away for several minutes. I have had neither of these happen since the delete, approx. 3 months and almost 5k miles. Edited June 18, 2014 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Mines not a squeal. Hard to explain. Almost like a vibration sound. But only does it with rpm's above 3k ans if i push in the clutch quickly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) Twice I have gotten a very brief TOB howl, at low RPM, starting off from a stop, but its probably from clutch dust material getting into the bearing. It has happened 2 times since the delete. That is all I have noticed. Prior to the delete I would get a bad pedal vibration every so often when the clutch was engaged, sometimes it would last for a day. It felt like my foot was on a paint can shaker. Usually it would go away if I popped the clutch (in neutral) several times in a row, but not always. And I also got a TOB squeal several times that sometimes wouldn't go away for several minutes. I have had neither of these happen since the delete, approx. 3 months and almost 5k miles. I have that vibration issue sometimes too! Your saying I can delete that with the delete? I was going to try to get a new clutch out of Subaru if it got any worse. also what is tob ? Edited June 19, 2014 by ripstik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Throw out bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Never heard it before the delete? Almost seems like the clutch is trying to catch up with the pedal input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) Your saying I can delete that with the delete? No, I never said that. Just that it hasn't happened since the delete. This is what I suspect as far as the vibration goes. In stock form, the clutch engages and disengages slower than it would (because of the damper) in a straight 1:1 hydraulic system, therefore the clutch essentially "slips" a little bit every time as a result of this slower engagement. This produces more dust than it should from the clutch disc material as it wears away. Said dust builds up evenly on the surfaces of the clutch disc (that aren't in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate), such as the rivets, and the pressure plate. On occasion, some of this dust breaks loose and falls off, or is thrown off the disc or pressure plate, causing an imbalance in the rotating assembly which translates to a vibration in the pedal. Popping the clutch (in neutral) several times when this happens knocks other dust build up off the rotating assembly, restoring balance. Once again, the above is just an assumption, but I have thought about this a lot and I am very familiar with the workings of a clutch, and this is the only plausible explanation I can come up with short of TOB or pressure plate finger anomalies. But if it were the either of those acting up, I would think that they would just fail and not exhibit random issues that come and go. Edited June 19, 2014 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) Never heard it before the delete? Almost seems like the clutch is trying to catch up with the pedal input Try re-bleeding the system. When I bled mine I over did it and kept bleeding and bleeding until I was sure it was correct. Be careful not to let the reservoir go dry, it can very quickly, and that you pull the clutch pedal up all the way each time before you build pressure in the system and crack the bleeder. I have done both mine and Swannee225's without issue. Edited June 19, 2014 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Yeah i noticed the reservoir can go empty very quickly. Im going to rebleed this weekend. Hopefully the gf can help me out in getting it done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reeg420 Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 No issues over here either. What gteaser said. Try bleeding again. How you explained it, the clutch trying to catch up to the pedal is what the damper does by default if you do an aggressive shift. Removing it would in fact make the clutch work at the same pace as the pedal. Unless there is another issue like with the fingers on the pressure plate or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 re-bled. Everything is kosher. Must have had some air in the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexofthevortex Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Sorry if this is a dumb question but I keep reading that your not supposed to let the reservoir be empty so air doesn't get in. So would it cool to drain all the fluid from the reservoir first, then remove the damper valve, and then refill and bleed the clutch system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hepy117 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 What i did was just hook up my clear fuel line that i boight with a bottle attached to catch the fluid to the clutch bleeder valve, opened the valve and then pumped the clutch, closed valve, repeat, to get most of the fluid out. Then disconnected the damper and did the install. Now I did get air in the system, but i didnt take the time to fully bleed the system and had to re-bleed. This was my first time doing a "clutch job". Would I do it differently? Yes, i would take the time to bleed the clutch with a full bottle of fluids to make sure everything was out. But at least i didnt have a mess inside the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 What i did was just hook up my clear fuel line that i boight with a bottle attached to catch the fluid to the clutch bleeder valve, opened the valve and then pumped the clutch, closed valve, repeat, to get most of the fluid out. Then disconnected the damper and did the install. Now I did get air in the system, but i didnt take the time to fully bleed the system and had to re-bleed. This was my first time doing a "clutch job". Would I do it differently? Yes, i would take the time to bleed the clutch with a full bottle of fluids to make sure everything was out. But at least i didnt have a mess inside the car A teaspoon of fluid would not really have been a mess, and I think you caused yourself more problems by pumping all the fluid out of the system first, there is no need to do that. Air bubbles tend to stay stuck in places like the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, and it sounds like that is what happened to you. You always want to avoid air in the system as much as possible. I lined the floor with a folded up old pair of jeans, then an old t-shirt, then a few paper towels, and wiped my hands and tools often to keep from transferring any fluid to other surfaces. At the clutch master cylinder there is really no room for rags, and a folded up paper towel worked well, it just needs to be replaced as it gets soaked with fluid. Glad you got all worked out and are enjoying the mod!!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted July 26, 2014 Share Posted July 26, 2014 Bump to the top. Earlier this week, had a brief discussion with the folks at DxD South Bend Clutch. One of the topics discussed is the clutch damper. He indicated that several manufactures have a damper. He stated that the clutch damper will cause excessive clutch disk wear for cars with increased torque. Removing the damper is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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