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[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete


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So I am at a loss for words. I don't even know what to think.

 

Pulled slave off and there wasn't anything like islandborn pictured in there.

 

Maybe a difference between 2.5i/GT? or between 2010 and 2012? Or that piece pictured was taken out of another car. Or wasn't taken out of the slave but there isn't any other spot for it.

There isn't even room where the banjo threads into for it. It bottoms out mm's to the end of the hole, no room for all that stuff in there. :spin:

 

What I did find was that spring bopper pictured. Its in the shaft of the slave. I actually took the whole slave apart looking for the additional damper. What just crossed my mind is that spring could be changed to help with engaging a really heavy duty clutch. With clutch disengaged that spring is compressed. With my stock clutch I had to compress slave for it to bolt back in. Meaning when Im engaging the clutch the spring is decompressing or helping the hydraulic pressure move the fork. If we were to find a stiffer spring that still didn't engage the clutch when compressed it would help with performance clutches so it doesn't need as much hydraulic pressure to press the pressure plate in. If that made any sense.

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Edited by reeg420
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Here is a pic of what they pulled. The "valve" has holes on the other side that the rubber plugs up

 

Island, did you get to drive your car after the damper delete (before the spring and rubber valve was removed)? I'm curious what each mod does to the feel and function of the hydraulic clutch.

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Completely different slave cylinder for the 2.5i vs. 2.5GT.

 

And that explains it. Lol

 

What's that big piece off the side of the gt slave. Wonder if a swap to a 2.5i slave would change things any.

Looked closely at the pic and the "insert" that blocks the fluid has more seals than mine. I had two, one pronounced and another smaller one around the very bottom. So it seems the gt piece has more seals.

Now that I think of it actually and look more at the pic mine looked more like the gt part. Had a seal midway up that flapped over not like an oring. Then another oring at the bottom. No pics though. Hmmm

Edited by reeg420
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Island, did you get to drive your car after the damper delete (before the spring and rubber valve was removed)? I'm curious what each mod does to the feel and function of the hydraulic clutch.

 

Unfortunately no. He did bring up that a bunch of the STIs switch to a basic imprenzas slave because it didn't come with all that stuff...

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There's a damper delete thread somewhere on either RS25, IWSTI or I-club that talks about deleting the damper (it screws into the m/c on the WRX/STi) and something that gets modded on the slave cylinder. Their slave looks like our GT one. Im on my phone so I cant do a good search to find it right now.
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Unfortunately no. He did bring up that a bunch of the STIs switch to a basic imprenzas slave because it didn't come with all that stuff...

So this might be the equivalent to swapping a 2.5i slave to a gt. From diagrams looks like same mounting. Banjo size/direction probably. Its what makes a Subaru a Subaru.

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This is the thread I remembered, but that slave cylinder is completely different than ours. Not how they call it a DELAY valve, because that is exactly what it does.

 

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/12865-clutch-delay-valve-repost-pics.html

 

Here is another one from an earlier model Legacy (completely different), once again, called a DELAY valve.

 

http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=26983

Edited by GTEASER
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Once again, if you can locate a 6MT car in a scrap yard, there is one of these in every 6MT engine compartment, just waiting for a new life in a GT. :lol: There is no reason why a used part would have any wear or issue. Just remember to plug the ends before grinding to do the gusset removal mod.

 

See Post 18 for location.

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^^

 

Yup easiest way is using car-part.com and locate a 6 speed tranny and call the yard.

Just did a search, there is probably 20 or so total from gt,2.5i,and outbacks.

As an alternative that wouldn't be as "clean" is using any brake line union that uses 1/4" line that has a total length of 3". Or two regular unions with a foot long 1/4" brake line and just loop it to connect the two unions. Its all hidden it just matters how OCD you are about your car.

Edited by reeg420
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Outback never came with 6MT so they could not be donors for this part.

 

Its shows as an option if looking for 2010. Shows trannys from 2010-2011 outbacks if outback option is chosen.

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I read through this whole thread and notice everything you guys have mentioned, feels very sloppy...it can get quite annoying cos it seems like it's my first time driving a manual trans for the first time. I ordered my part today and hopefully will be done this weekend! Great write up! Edited by its_jayce
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Did mine today. I can feel the improvement just testing it out in the driveway to make sure it all worked. We're going out to dinner soon and I'll have a better idea of how it feels. Only took about 45 min. including removing the ic to bleed the system. I used my Mighty-Vac. This is definitely a must do mod. If anyone is near my neck of the woods and needs help doing it hit me up. I used a cut-off wheel on my dremel tool to remove the gusset, cut it off like butter! Also, don't try any short cuts, take the line off from the pedal to the valve like the op showed, it makes it much easier to put it all back together. Also, don't try to use a regular 10mm wrench to remove the line, you'll just round out the flare nut. Also, does anyone know what that metal disk is thats clipped to the line that goes through the firewall?

Fat people are hard to kidnap!!!

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Nice job! Yes, always use a flare nut wrench on hydraulic fittings and good point to not shortcut the removal of the line from the m/c, it makes it much easier if you just do it.

 

The disk you are referring to, I believe, is a weight that smooths out any vibrations or rattles from that pipe that goes thru the firewall. Probably an NVH measure by the factory.

Edited by GTEASER
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I read through this whole thread and notice everything you guys have mentioned, feels very sloppy...it can get quite annoying cos it seems like it's my first time driving a manual trans for the first time. I ordered my part today and hopefully will be done this weekend! Great write up!

 

Thanks man.

You wont regret removing the damper. Its like night and day.

 

Like km580 said if anybody is around my area too and wants some help hit me up.

 

@km580

Its that much of a difference I agree I felt it right off the bat too.

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Hey Islandborn, could you tell us the name of the dealer and apprx charge for install for us Houston 5th gens?

 

I have very little time until summer but wanted this done. So I ordered the part and chatted it up at my Subaru dealership service guys. (they are all part of the Houston Subaru Group - run modded STIs and WRXs :)) Of course it was a interesting thing as the STI and WRX set up is very different from ours - of course.
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OK so I just got back from dinner and I have to say this mod is a HUGE improvement! Pulling out from a stop is smoother and the shift changes are smoother also. Like others have mentioned, I thought I was just got bad at shifting (I've been driving a stick for 30 years) but now I know it was the car. The clutch grabs just off the floor and just feels more like a mechanical clutch. I'll do some "spirited" driving over the next few days (had the family in the car tonight) but I'm sure it will be just as good.

Like TEASER said, you don't have to use a bleeder, I just prefer that method. Also if you are going to do this od, you may want to put a block between the clutch pedal and the flood to keep from accidentally pushing the pedal down while the lines are off. It will make a mess.

Can't wait for my brass bushing next. Between these two mods this will clear up most of my complaints about this car.

Fat people are hard to kidnap!!!

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