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[How-To] Clutch Damper Valve Delete


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yes

 

During bleeding operation, keep the clutch reservoir

tank filled with clutch fluid to prevent entry of

air.

• Clutch pedal must be operated very slowly.

• Bleed air from the oil line with help of a co-worker.

• The amount of clutch fluid required is approximately

70 m2 (2.4 US fl oz, 2.5 Imp fl oz) for total

clutch system.

 

what do you mean by "70 m2" of clutch fluid for the entire system? ml's?

ill say yes since 2.4 fl Oz's (US) s about 70 ml's

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Well it has now been a few days with the damper delete.....

Damn, I wish someone had spotted this simple mod sooner!

 

This is exactly how I have wanted the clutch to behave since I got the car. What is great about it is that there is no more uncertainty. It just does what you tell it to. In casual driving, upshifts are perfectly smooth and I can now execute flawless downshifts again. Quick shifts don't have that slipping clutch sensation anymore where your foot would be off the pedal but you could tell that it hadn't engaged fully. Moving from a stop is much more predictable.

 

I don't believe I've really had to alter my technique any. I just drive the car like normal now and relax. However, after 25k miles of uncertainty between gears, I still keep thinking I'm going to shift and be presented with a jerking/clunking sensation that wasn't my fault. That's the only thing I need to work on ;)

 

The specifics of my install:

-Ordered connector part from dealer for about $37.

-Ground down one gusset with an angle grinder while the connector was in a vice.

-The damper came out really easy. Putting the new part in was a bit tricky as I had a tough time getting everything to line up right so the threads wouldn't get stripped. It's tight in there and hard to see.

-Used a vacuum bleeder to bleed the clutch. It worked so well I think I ended up changing all the fluid. New fluid (Pennzoil I think from Advance Auto) was lighter color so I could see a layer of old and new fluid in the vacuum reservoir.

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I have very little time until summer but wanted this done. So I ordered the part and chatted it up at my Subaru dealership service guys. (they are all part of the Houston Subaru Group - run modded STIs and WRXs :)) Of course it was a interesting thing as the STI and WRX set up is very different from ours - of course.

 

After looking at the AMAZING pics in the front of the tread, they did the delete quite fast @ 40 minutes. ALSO, they removed a spring set up that controlled the oil from the slave cylinder - common mod they do.

 

Results: Totally love it. This is old school clutch working. I can FEEL the slight vibrations thru the clutch pedal as I press on it. I'm running a Competition Clutch Stage 2 and would get frustrated getting into 1st gear. All the sponginess and guessing would leave me riding the clutch just to get going. Drive-Thrus KILLED me (I get a green tea from Starbucks every AM) as I would feel like a tool over-revving. IMHO this mod makes the shifting drastically better - even better I would say than the stock set up.

 

reeg240 - Well done with those picts. Even the guys at the dealership was quite impressed with how you got those so clean.

GTEASER - fantastic job on the explaining of "why do it" and the hunting you do so well for part look ups....(I swear you are independently wealthy and never work so you have time for all this stuff :p)

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what do you mean by "70 m2" of clutch fluid for the entire system? ml's?

ill say yes since 2.4 fl Oz's (US) s about 70 ml's

 

That's a direct paste from the manual. Looks like a typo and should have been ml.

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That's a direct paste from the manual. Looks like a typo and should have been ml.

 

hahaha classic language converted manual typo. at work I read through tons of manuals that have been converted to English and some of the things they say are just hilarious.

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ALSO, they removed a spring set up that controlled the oil from the slave cylinder

 

I knew it... Never took off the rubber line that night to check.

 

Do we have any confirmed fitting braided lines for that rubber clutch line? If I'm taking it apart again I'm swapping to a stainless braided line just for general purpose.

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The slave cylinder spring should look something like this.

Soon as line comes off of slave it should be right in there.

This one isnt from a legacy I forget what maybe a Hyundai, its been floating around my work since I took it out.

 

Sooo much stuff to do this weekend. Might get to this. ISC coilovers and some 19's got to go on.

WP_20140508_001.thumb.jpg.8bdd356b4cdb0437b533588429c81e2a.jpg

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Is this the spring you're talking about? Please tell us more ...

 

Its not gonna be that one. That looks like the fork side of the slave.

Its in the line side.

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Might not be pictured since it should be part of the slave as far as parts diagrams go.

The spot for it would be on the backside of the banjo bolt.

 

I'm just going by what I've seen in other cars though. Could be completely wrong.

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Do we have any confirmed fitting braided lines for that rubber clutch line?...I'm swapping to a stainless braided line...

+1 if im going to this delete I'd like to do it up NICE.

islandborn, can you give us any other info on the slave cylinder spring delete?

+1 what is the benefit of this what does this spring do in the first place?

 

Is this the spring you're talking about? Please tell us more ...

 

from the diagram it looks more like something to keep that rubber boot from folding and cutting off flow more than anything (<just a guess)

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also. where do you guys find these awesome diagrams of specific parts? its my favorite way to learn about the ins and outs of things but i have trouble finding such nice ones.
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Is this the spring you're talking about? Please tell us more ...

 

Its on top of the slave cylinder - all contents behind the big bolt need to be removed - plastic piece, spring, and a valve of some sort with lots of little holes with a rubber stopper. I forgot them at the dealership so I'll go today to pick them up and take a pic for all

Edited by islandborn
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Benefits?

 

More direct clutch feel. The hydraulic pressure would push up the clutch pedal more when disengaging.

Like the one I pictured earlier at the top of the black part is a little hole equivalent to say a 1/8" steel line. That piece goes inline of a 1/4" line. So upon engaging clutch it flows like a 1/4" line since spring is compressed and pushed in. When disengaging spring is out and that black piece covers the 1/4" line making it seem like an 1/8" line going back to the master.

Edited by reeg420
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^ Are you thinking about removing the inline spring? Interested in what your driving impression would be of that ... since you already know what the damper delete did for the feel of the clutch. ;)

 

P.S. Got my connector today. I have another on order but haven't received it yet. It will be available to anybody having trouble getting one.

Image.jpg.c07879882757db795cb2b2d13fa51ebc.jpg

Edited by BigBopper
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@Bopper

I plan on removing the whole thing like islandborn was saying.

 

I'll take it apart this weekend and get some pics. Hopefully I don't make a mess. I'll update the OP with this how to also.

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Nice pic thanks.

I'll be taking mine out tomorrow. I figure it should be quick. More pics to follow but it should be pretty straight forward. Remove banjo, unbolt slave(easier), remove stupid piece, put back together, bleed.

I had a feeling there was one of these in there.

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Nice pic thanks.

I'll be taking mine out tomorrow. I figure it should be quick. More pics to follow but it should be pretty straight forward. Remove banjo, unbolt slave(easier), remove stupid piece, put back together, bleed.

I had a feeling there was one of these in there.

 

<<< Excellent >>>

 

I expect a full report on my desk by Monday, detailing exactly how the clutch pedal feel changed. :lol:

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