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Official: UT Newb thread (post your questions, previously asked, many times, here)


doccrowley

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Yeah that's what I figured, just thought I'd ask the locals in case there was a difference in opinion. It saves a few bucks compared to a shop doing it and now that I don't get heavily discounted one's at the dealership I got the car from I'll definitely be doing it myself. The filter can't be any harder to replace than a 99 miatas. that thing was a pain.

 

oh yeah , i have an oil filter clamp that attaches to my ratchet wrench, and its a simple up, twist, and done

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Costco. Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic by the case. Done.

 

My Subaru, before stage II would "disappear" the Mobile 1 5w-30 from Costco. It was like magic, it would very quickly go a quart low and always need a top off.

 

Stage II, tuned the Rotella T6 Walmart jugs were great and didn't disappear in mine.

 

First Built motor: Rotella T6 was great and had a 'fairly quiet' motor (for forged pistons--according to Jesse the tuner).

 

Second built motor (after the heads had to be rebuilt a 2nd time): Metric told me to switch to Joe Gibbs Racing HR2 10w-30 (because the extra zinc would buffer the wear in the heads), purchased by the case from Pro Machine.

I never disappeared or went through a single drop of oil with 3K oil changes on the Rallispec block in 15 months and 15K miles running the mods that I had. :)

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Free top offs of Mobil 1 at Batemans in West Jordan if you do their synthetic, it's nice. And you get top offs on windshield washer fluid and all the works too so you're always in the clear.

 

The best thing to run for your car is AMSoil, but it's very expensive and you have to go through dealers and you don't really need to run it if you're not #racecar.

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Going to be doing a lot of maintenance and general upkeep work soon, seeing as I'll be hitting 125k just after new years.

 

1. what fluid do you recommend for the differential?

2. Going to replace Diff fluid and flush my brake lines, what fluid do you guys recommend?

3. replacing oil lines, are infamous pretty much the only one I should look at getting?

4. Is KillerB oil pickup worth it?

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I suppose this has been discussed numerous times, but I took the rear banjo bolt oil filter out and wanted an opinon on it. It looks pretty clean to me for a 110k car (dirt on the leftmost black piece was from workbench)

_DSC0008.thumb.jpg.19d18171a69785580a10c0513b22fe28.jpg

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I suppose this has been discussed numerous times, but I took the rear banjo bolt oil filter out and wanted an opinon on it. It looks pretty clean to me for a 110k car (dirt on the leftmost black piece was from workbench)

 

I was going to ask the same question. How many of you removed the filter and are now running without it? I have read all the stickies on the subject, I'm just wondering what the general consensus is now?

 

Would upgrading the oil lines on a stock turbo setup be worth it or is it unnecessary until I get a bigger one?

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Personally if I were to do it, I would just replace it with another one, no point in little shrapnel getting into your Turbo and ruining everything when you could just change it every 6 months to a year... Just keep an eye on it and there won't be a problem.
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Seems to be clean other than a few specs- nothing to worry about. If somehow it gives you more peace of mind to have the filter, you can save a few bucks and just rinse it and reinstall as long as you didn't damage it when taking it out (which by the picture it looks like you didn't). Infamous Performance version2 oil line kit is compatible with OEM turbos from a flow standpoint so if you want to remove the banjo bolt filter but still feel like you gotta have some additional pre-turbo filtration, that's an option but even he will tell you it is not needed for OEM turbos (including VF52). BNR requires you upgrade oil lines for the 1 year warranty to be valid on any of his turbos.
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