shralp

I suppose you could have them talk with Eric Wong at brakeswap.com as he was the one that originally spec'd and sold the kit. For the years that I ran it both on the street and at the track I had no issues running this set up.

I paid close to $340 for my front right here in Bend at the dealership last month

Put one on a few weeks ago after going thru too many melted CV boots over the past few years.

Putting in a vote for NO mudflaps

That’s a fairly minimal jump so if your not changing your rim diameter or side wall size they should fit. Pretty sure your rims are 7” wide so 225 is as big as you’ll want to go. The tire sizes sticky at the top of this thread has lots of good info in it even though it’s more ‘05-‘09 specific.

Can't wait to see some shots!

Seen these? https://www.rallyinnovations.com/collections/rally-light-bar/products/2008-2009-subaru-legacy-outback-rally-light-bar-su-bpa-rlb-01

Looks great!

Hmm, tough one. I can generally say from experience that aftermarket axles tend to not work great in our cars, guess the price reflects that. I’d be tempted to say put a Napa one in while the weather is good and rebuild your OEM one as time allows. But since you gotta pull the old one to put the new one in you’ve done most of the work already

Yup pretty much, I figure 5+ years on stuff that gets heat cycled a ton is a win. I’m more freaked out about a wrap catching fire from combustible soak of some sort. Not as big an issue if you pay attention to what’s going on with your car on a regular basis. Gotta say though, my recent CV failure would have left a hellscape of highly flammable, sticky petroleum product all over a wrap had I chose to do it.

I did opt for a rear strut tower brace a few years ago for the track car since there was a forum member that had recently put in a roll cage and was selling it now that the car was super rigid. No idea how much flex the rear towers have when I’m full chat on track so I figured it wouldn’t hurt. It looks out of place back there, a shiny Cusco bit surrounded by a less than pretty gutted rear interior

Are these plug and play with our wiring set up? Never been particularly happy with the stock Halogen headlight output in my ‘08 XT but dont want cobble together something that needs all kinds of adapters etc.

Happy with these, they also have clear corners which cleaned up the look a bit. I’m sure they sell for the post facelift Outback as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/302908652238

Nice, love to see shots of the bar brackets once you get them in

Did a bit of tinkering this weekend under the car after getting it fixed from the deer strike in Sept. I discovered that my skid plate got bent a bit in the accident and now some of my mounts for the front splitter didn't line up With a bit of "coaxing" (5lb sledge hammer!) I got everything to line up again. Someone had mentioned wanting to see more attachment pics so I took some more while I was under the car. To refresh, my goal was to make something that I could take on and off at the track, giving me the ability to keep it off for the drive to/from the track. I wanted something that I could install and pull off quickly without tearing a ton of stuff apart and it needed to be performed with a hot engine bay but without burning the crap out of me. The photos pretty much explain it but essentially its a six point system. I made turnbuckles that can be quickly installed for the eyebolts you see. The pass side is attached by pulling the intake snorkel and latching the cable onto the bolt you see in the frame horn. There is a threaded insert there from the factory, no idea why. the drivers side uses another turnbuckle but this one passes thru a hole in the battery tray, (again its there from the factory). the two rearmost points are nut serts that I had installed in the skid plate. Those just pass thru the splitter and thread in. The last two points are the rods out front. It takes me about 8 min to take it on and off and yes, I can do it with the engine bay blazing hot and without jacking up the car

Hmmm interesting, wonder how these would be mainly from a reduced cost due to increased longevity standpoint for me. Since I can only run a 16.5mm pad in my Stoptech’s I’m blowing thru expensive pads way faster than I’d like. If I could get a full track season on a set that would be awesome!

if you search the seller cke_ssp on eBay you'll find some of his stuff for sale. Don't see that he's selling the brackets but maybe he has some around? Honestly, I'd be tempted to buy a set as well. As far as I know the AVO bracket is the only one available other than this one. If someone knows another manufacturer let me know. It would be a good idea for me to have a replacement set for the track car as my discontinued Perrin's are now going on 15yrs old.

Yup these from AVO. There was someone out of Colorado or Utah I think that was making brackets too, can't remember the name, kind of a mom and pop enthusiast. They looked nice as well. Running the AVO's my XT daily and running the long lost, very much discontinued Perrin brackets on the track car that I put on in '07. They don't look particularly pretty now...

I looked back in my records, can't seem to find the invoice for my Whiteline rear bar but I'm thinking it was bigger than 20mm. If memory serves me the JDM OEM GT rears were 20mm? Pretty sure that Whiteline has a stiffer one, mine is their double adjustable one, 22-24 I think? Front is 22mm *EDIT nope think you're right, I see the matched sets for sale here listing a 20mm rear. I believe that's 20mm on the first setting and 22 on the stiff setting.

Meh, front strut bars are window dressing on a Subaru unless you're scratching for extra tenths at the track. Subaru's already have a huge front bar connecting the shock towers straight from the factory. Its the firewall. Unlike lots of other cars with a huge gap between the two, (a la E46 BMW's etc etc) where a front strut bar helps to tie in the square, Subaru smartly placed our towers just a few inches from the firewall and that is damn stiff. Can't speak to a rough ride with just adding rear sway bar re-enforcement brackets and a bigger bar. I've owned multiple 4 gen turbo wagons over the last 15 yrs. and all have been in various states of "OEM+" to pretty wildly modified and I don't think I'd ever call that one mod a "rough ride" by any stretch.

yeah I'd do that for now and choose an appropriate flavor of end link. the poly insert in the stock ball-and-cup ones gets warn down over time and gets play in them. Lots of debate out there for end links and I don't have any answers I am running the nice Whiteline double adjustable ones on the track car so I'm able to make small adjustments if need be. They are more complex for sure and there is more to come loose. I run mine with medium duty lock tight and have had no issues. Didn't want to fiddle with that on my XT daily so I'm actually running the Moogs spec'd for our '05-'09 platform. They are way burlier than stock both in the cup design and thickness of the shaft with zerks for easy re-lubing down the line. Dirt cheap too. Think I got them on Amazon so I could get free shipping. Happy with those for the intended use so running them F&R on the XT, (also with a Whiteline front sway but with Rallitek OEM Outback height stiffer springs all the way around). Other brands out there that seem to work well too but don't have any experience with them. I will say that no matter what, aftermarket sways squeak more than you'd want them to! Re-lubing the bushings, while pretty simple, just annoys me. I coat that thing inside and out like a freakin' glazed donut.

Better rear brackets are a must if your upgrading the rear bar, as the new forces put on it will definitely make them fail over time. Agreed with others it’s probably the best bang for your buck to transform the handling. It will get rid of much of the factory under steer that you feel when you start to push the car. Remember, adding a larger front sway will do the opposite, that is, add under steer back in. I’d suggest just doing the rear for now and save budget for other suspension parts

Good point, glad to hear it comes up easily. I actually was wondering the same thing, if the tack would actually make the bond stronger. Pretty tempted to order some up and try a test area

looks decent to me. So I did contact Vivvid about my dash board issue wit the hazing, tackiness, etc. I assume they are just covering their asses but they couldn't guarantee that this velvet vinyl would stay bonded to the dash because of this issue. The top of our door skins seems to be the same material as the dash, but my door skins are not deteriorating like my dash is. Now I'm unsure whether to try it or not because if it loses its adhesion over time, it will be a huge mess to peel it off

Yup, the Koyo for '08-'15 WRX / STI '05-'09 is direct fit. Mine was about $450