shralp

NIce Paint!

Ok I’ll bite Any thoughts on Motul vs Amsoil for track cars? Been running Amsoil Signature Series 5w-50 forever with no issues but with the move to Central Oregon it’s a bit harder to get and I see that one of the tuners here in town is a Motul dealer

Pretty much this ^. Just a slightly harder durometer rubber compared to OEM. Haven’t felt that they were overly harsh at all for a daily but wouldn’t go any harder I.e. Perrin, IAG etc.

I had a similar question during my motor rebuild scare a few months back. My shop of 15yrs, Surgeline, (formerly Cobb Surgeline for many years), told me the same thing. Cobb has updated the software so tuners aren't even able to get to areas that they previously had access to.

Are the Group N mounts really all that pricey? I’d just go with those, very happy with mine…

Unfortunately those are long gone when I switched to top feed years ago

Photos of my '06 FXT TGV's for you guys. I had already pulled the butterflies and did a light port to clean up the insides but I left the partition wall since power gains were going to be negligible.

Well that looks familiar, a total twin to mine!

if it helps any I can shoot some detailed pics of my '06 FXT TGV's for comparison as well...

ugh, sorry to hear about your issues. Its so frustrating when you get immediate pushback from a company or a shop when something goes wrong a la "customer is guilty until proven innocent". For me, lately its been a shop issue. With the move to Bend, OR from Portland I found myself 3hrs away from Surgeline, my shop of 16yrs. I chose a shop here that is well respected and works on not only Subies but high end exotic cars as well as race builds and race car maintenance. After throwing a few cels on track last summer I took it in to have it looked over for boost leaks and a compression test. I was told that compression was low in all 4 cylinders, particularly in 1&3 at 105. Armed with that knowledge I decided that it was time to put in a new short block, get the heads re-worked etc. Was planning on pulling my JMP 16G and swapping in a 2.5XT-R while it was torn apart as well. Because of the scope of the job, I just wasn't willing to take a chance with this new shop quite yet, (and the fact that they are understaffed and the high end stuff always seems to get priority), so I drove the car to Surgeline for the work. They did their own compression test just to verify before tearing into the car and guess what? The motor was perfectly fine and healthy compression wise Now I've spent about $500 on parts for the supposed re-build, not to mention gas and time to get the car to Portland. This and the fact that with winter setting in, it was going to be touch and go getting the car over the mountain passes back to Bend safely when I never had to take it there in the first place. When I brought up the crap diagnosis to the shop here in Bend, they balked and basically said they would re-imburse me for the the compression test charge but nothing else. Not that I was looking to necessarily have them stroke me a big check but I would have appreciated perhaps some shop credit for the future to cover some of the expenses and hassle caused by their error. The tech that did the work is not longer working at the shop, apparently due to a whole host of screw ups on cars.

ahhh I see. What that sucks!

Kinda wished I had been forced into trying these ‘06 FXT TGV’s a few months back when my motor was supposedly going bad. But hey, grateful that it actually wasn’t so that saved me thousands for a new motor Guess I’ll just hold onto these until I need them in the future. Got mine from Subie Recycler in Colorado. still don’t see why the new IAG deletes are not an option? Looks to me like everything in this package is pure hardware and you swap all your motors, plugs, etc off your OEM TGV onto the IAG unit. If it’s all the electrical guts from your existing TGV plugged right back in to your existing plug then why wouldn’t it work? What am I missing here?

The total weight out of the car was 35 lbs and it looked to be about 50/50 between the tar insulation and the weight of the carpet. Will probably drop another 10 lbs once I pull the drivers footwell carpet and the insulation underneath. There is also tar insulation under each seat that I need to yank out at some point as well.

Finally making some headway on my winter checklist with the track car. I've been wanting to pull the carpets for awhile and with Santa bringing me a Cool-Shirt system, it was the perfect time to yank them so I could have a good base to mount on. Leaving the drivers seat footwell as is for now until I can source a good heel rest so it doesn't throw off my pedal to floor spacing. Also took the time to gut most of the heavy tar insulation, (everywhere you see grey). It was a bitch but a heat gun and some techniques I figured out made it somewhat tolerable. Carpet and insulation out lightened me up 35lbs. Discovered holes in the rear pass floorboard that were miraculously located just where I wanted to mount the Cool-Shirt bracket. Even sized up right for M8 riv-nuts Got my Setrab Oil cooler mounted up. Again, shocked to discover that 3 of 4 mounting points were exactly where I wanted the cooler and I was able to use the front rad support bolts that were already there to mount. Once the cooler was in, had the lines built, routed and connected to the sandwich plate at Surgeline in Portland to ensure it would be good to go. Also had them swap in a Fluid Dampr pulley. Got my V.2 brake ducts from RooDucts re-installed as well. A few more boxes to check and I'll be ready for the season.

We can get water temp readout on the AccessPort so that’s nice. Sure wish we could get Oil Temp

Similar experience, bought a used Fluidampr from Sgt. Gator a few months back since he had an extra laying around from his various race car builds over the years. Definitely smoother at idle and in general. Didn’t put it in to solve any issues per se but the price was right and I wanted to get away from the OEM one in my track car since it’s 18yrs old now and it gets driven hard.

Hey guys, following along here as Underdog and I have been chatting on the problem. Yes, similar issue this fall. A bunk compression check at the shop here in Bend led me to take the track car to Surgeline for a new short block and bump up to a Dom 2.5. I'm already running a top feed set up and big injectors so something was going to have to be done about my IAG deletes. Short story long, Surgeline's pre tear down comp test came back perfectly fine and it never had to go under the knife. The plan was to source a 3 pin top feed TGV, an '06 FXT being one choice, and this is what I sourced. Sounds like the polarity issue is still a hurdle and I never had to actually install so can't speak on that. I guess I assumed that the only reason IAG lists these as '07+ on the website was because of '05-'06 being side feed for Legacy. From their pics is seems like everything in the kit is used to bolt on the existing OEM guts? Presumably there is more to it than that

Our Subies are not inline motors and they DO have 2 exhaust manifolds

Hadn't thought about that but yup, they are not doing me any good right now and if I do end up being forced into TGV down the line for the track car I'll most likely go with the IAG offering anyway. Surgeline told me it was going to be a pretty tight fit with the new turbo that I was going to put in, (that was supposed to go along with the winter re-power that never happened). The IAG's have a slimmed down footprint to allow for bigger turbos so I'll end up going that route if I have to. Feel free to ping me a PM and we can chat on it if you're interested in them

Good point. Did not confirm that real world as they never went in so can't say with 100% assurance so thats probably worth pursuing to make sure.

I had a similar issue this fall when I had a compression check done on my track car as it was potentially showing signs of getting tired and in need of a new short block, (the shop I took it to totally phoned in my comp check, gave me low readings and so I took it to Cobb Surgeline for a new motor. They did their own compression check and the motor is FINE. But that's a whole 'nother story). Anyway, new motor was going to mean a new tune which meant my Top Feed IAG TGV deletes were going to have to get tossed. Since the newly released IAG TGV's had not been released yet, I looked at OEM options to gut. The '06-'08 Forester XT TGV's are 3 pin Top Feed and will drop right in. I pulled the butterflys out and did a light porting job to smooth out and remove material that the butterfly rests on when its closed. Kept the rod and chose not to remove the partition wall as it wasn't really necessary at my power levels. For those not wanting to pay for the new EPA compliant IAG TGV's this is a good low(er) cost option. ...and in the end I didn't even need to get them, now they are just sitting in a box

Pretty much what seanyb505 said. It’s a good middle ground between performance and acceptable tire wear / driveability on the street. More than -1.5 deg you’ll have to manage faster tire wear.

wow, kudos for the seller for getting that much scratch for his wagon. Some pluses for sure, the 6 speed among them but dang, $21k is top top dollar for this example IMHO

That JDM V grille in the forum for sale right now fits. There is a slight gap between the bottom of the grille and the bumper skin but It wasn’t super noticeable and with my car being RBP color, some black bulb gasket under the bottom lip of the grill made it virtually disappear. Was running this one on my ‘05 until I hit that deer on the way to the track last year

Probably the original hose and the car is old, wouldn’t light the shop up too hard, hoses burst when they get old