shralp

Don’t have the sides on the track car but do have them on my Outback. The previous owner had installed it. He left the sides and looks like he did a little trim on them so they would fit with the skidplate. He drilled a hole thru the plate and thru the part of the side pod that sits on top of the plate and put a small zip strip in to affix the two to keep the side plates from being floppy. Seems to work well, I just snip the zip strips before pulling the plate off. Also might want to think about opting for no oil change holes. It’s still a messy proposition to have to work around it unless you’re exceedingly careful and it really is just that easy to take on and off

You definitely needs something there to optimize cooling as it was designed from the factory. The Primitive plates are decent, you can opt for the "street series" that you see here on my track car, its lighter duty than their rally version which is thicker, (heavier). I have that one on my Outback with the optional duck tail for extra protection. Don't have a shot of that handy. One bonus, WAY easier to do oil changes and/or work on the under side. They come off in like 3 min.

Downsides are it may throw your MAF scaling off and with no airbus around it, it may be more like a HAI, a "hot air intake" I get it, it looks cool and all but I'd still recommend going stock airbox unless your pushing over over about 325HP. the snorkel off the bottom of the stock airbox if you want a bit more turbo noise.

Wait, wut?!? You let your wife drive your car?

Have done pretty much what Infosecdad has done in the past with good success. Was running the stock heat shield notched and trimmed a bit to allow for the fatter Cobb bell housing. Pretty easy to do if you're handy with a dremel w/metal cutting wheel or something air operated. Ran a PTP for a long time no issues, swapped in a Faction Fab one a few years ago just because it was a good price and is essentially the same build. Could run a blankie with the Cobb or GS heat shield if you want to spend a bit more for better coverage, I've had both and the newer versions are pretty painless to put on. Worth DEI gold taping the inside "just cuz..."

Would be really interesting to A/B/C these turbos along with something like a Cobb 20G to see how the three stack up in the same car

Double bump for a great builder! Tempted to leapfrog over my JMP 16g past 18g to a JMP 20g Unfortunately not in the financial cards right now but someone with a proper set up should scoop one of these!

Yup OEM heat shield works fine with a bit of trimming. Ran mine for rears while I was running a VF52

Me the slippery slope has turned it from stock daily driver to full on track car over the last 17 yrs!

I know it’s the wrong place to put this but thought it might get more eyeballs. Mod please move to Cars For Sale if your so inclined 52k mi ‘05 GT wagon 5MT non limited for sale on BAT right now… https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-subaru-legacy-gt-6/

Cobb LF on my Grimmspeed

Thanks much, it’s been a labor of love (and cash) over the last 16 years. Definitely a process for sure and it really has happened in slow motion over that time with a few steps on the gas when major components had to be replaced. Would definitely have a heavier wallet, (…or maybe a faster car due to more parts!) if I’d done all the wrenching myself but I know where my line of comfort is and I’m pretty aware of what I can do with 100% confidence, anything that’s more than about 5% below that, I’m taking it to a tuner I trust

Yup correct. No need to go CAI until your nipping at about 350HP, or more appropriately, until your moving enough air that that stocker can’t keep up, typically anything larger than a VF52 with supporting mods

Looks like it was swapped in Feb of 2015, the car got pulled out of daily duty shortly thereafter when I bought a used A4 Avant, (which bled me dry...). Its had 10K trouble free miles, (pretty much to/from track and on track) since then and was swapped out last Feb when I pulled the OEM pan for a complete IAG competition pan/baffle/pick up kit. Just wanted to make sure everything would work together. No advice on install for pans as Surgeline did it in PDX when the Killer B was swapped in at the same time. As a side note, the IAG pan does fit with the Primitive Skid Plate (ordered with the extended drop for header clearance), but barely

I did mine preemptively when I put the forged motor in the track car (‘05)with a Moroso, didn’t know there might be fitment issues / multiple part numbers and it fit fine.

Thanks for the detailed write upon this! For those of us that may opt to do this in the future but not necessarily doing it themselves, this will be a great resource to share with a tuner to show them that yes, this can be done without major modification and that it works. It will certainly save time on labor costs

Ran my GT wagon for a lot of years when it was a combo daily driver / track car with a resonated Perrin midpipe / Y to stock muffs. Pretty tame with just a sight bit of boxer rumble. Assume running a similar aftermarket mid/y to stock muffs would give you the same.

Yup still on the Cosworth 4032

Wow, surprised an IAG stg.1 would fail at such a low power level in relation to what it should be able to handle. That said, if you aren’t totally clear on the history of the car from day 1, I’d suspect there’s other factors that contributed to the failure. As Mentioned above, IAG is definitely a top builder for Suby engines. They definitely know what they’re doing. Another option would be to talk with Rallispec as they are in your neck of the woods. Before IAG really came on the scene hard in the last few years, Rallispec was another good option for built motors. I opted to have Dave build me a slightly modified version of their Street Value short block for my track car. Since it was a partial daily driver at the time as well I was concerned about long term durability, piston slap, etc. He suggested Cosworth 4032 Forged for me. While they are still forged, the 4032 doesn’t have quite the expansion and contraction of typical 2618 forged pistons so you can run close to OEM ring clearances, I.e.- no piston slap. Still running fine in my track car today pushing about 340whp, and yes the car gets driven hard on track Dave would also be a good source to chat on capabilities if the RA block as well as de-stroking options

Honestly, I’d put it up for sale and put the funds towards something else in the car. Not worth trying to modify it and front strut bars on our cars do virtually nothing to help handling

If this can be sussed out for a proper price I could totally see going this route for my '08 Outback stg.2 daily. It never seems too big a deal until I hop in my STI 6MT swapped track car and take it out on the highway. Then I'm reminded why I don't like the 5MT. The 6 speed is so much more sedate in the revs when you're just cruising. Might decide to push farther to 300HP to the wheels in this Outback one of these days but will never go farther. This would be a killer option for me.

Yup gotta say guys, there are so many 1050 Injector Dynamic (Cobb) units running just fine on the Suby platform, I’m gonna wager the majority of folks issues are either operator error on install or other ancillary parts not allowing then injectors to do their job as intended

For sure, with stock fueling that difference is not that huge, more than anything it moves your powerband to the right and makes it a bit more broad. Once you add a pump and injectors you start seeing real (safe) gains

Nope, not bulletproofed. My old Perrin from the track car is patiently sitting on the shelf waiting for its turn

My JMP vf52, stock fueling, stock pump, stock TMIC, Cobb DP / UP, stock exhaust, stock intake, JMP VF52.PDF