shralp

Yup thats the stealership for you. Problems, (or lack of serious ones), with your particular situation aside, you're usually going to get someone thats not allowed to really make a targeted call on something. They are trained to diagnose a problem and provide a solution that will lead to a successful outcome for the customer. Even if that means suggesting replacing a number of parts in the system to make the repair when perhaps its a much smaller, (cheaper), issue to fix. Getting most dealerships to think outside the box is a headache. I had an issue a few years back with my local dealer when I brought my Outback XT in for a front suspension / brake issue as my tuner was super booked out. I mentioned that the car had front GT calipers / rotors swapped on and they immediately defaulted to the "non-OEM parts for your vehicle" as part of the problem when it has nothing to do with it. The concept that OEM Subaru calipers are seamlessly interchangeable between the two models was just too much for their brains to process

Can’t speak to rebuild kits or EBay turbos but both would sketch me out unless I really knew what I was doing and knew the parts were legit spec. +1 for JMP, you should ping him to see what he has in stock. I was able to get a core exchange on my 16G as he needs used IHI units to rebuild. That’s helps on the price as well.

Could look at the street or rally series plates from Primitive Racing as well

Huge fan of the Murray Constant Tension Clamps as well. Have swapped them in where needed in the track car. Can’t say it’s a boost leak from here but I’ll eat my hat if it’s a bum rebuild from JMP

Good point, its just there should be a fair amount of used sets out there to source. Agreed I'd never pay full price, new OEM is a rape for sure... I'd post in the Want To Buy section of the forum as well as over on NASIOC, bound to find something used...

Sorry to say but that’s a pretty hard goal to meet. Any aftermarket header regardless of quality, will most likely be more than an OEM manifold set, certainly more than a used one. You should be able to source a used set from here or NASIOC especially as there a lot more folks over there. My tuner had a used set from an STI for $100 that was recently brought in for headers, that’s what I swapped in to my Outback

Burly AN to your EBCS! Thats NFA!!

Yup won’t hit 350 to the wheels with this but a number is just a number, it will be fun either way

Yup, I had 8 yrs of daily driving / track use on my OEM before swapping in the Koyo. It was functioning perfectly fine when I pulled it. The only reason was it made sense since the car was getting a forged motor build and moving to a pretty much full time track car.

As for logging boost, its not something that I pay attention to a lot per se other than to note if I'm not hitting typical boost targets. I have my tuner check my logs a few times a season and that encompasses lots of parameters including this. If I'm operating under typical conditions my most aggressive map set up for 20.5 lbs of max boost on E10 Super Unleaded with 32oz. of Torco added per full tank. If I'm not seeing that live on my mounted AP or my cubby boost gauge then certainly I know something is up. As for how long I'm in boost, nope don't pay attention to that other than to say that my goal is to stay in the meat of the power band as much as possible. I'll have to dig into my notes for intake temps can't remember off hand. Top speed is totally track dependent. Highest for me currently would be the straight at The Ridge in WA, its super long, 134mph before you have to shut it down for a tight left hand that heads up a hill.

AC was ripped out years ago

Yup, depending on the spec of your DP it can be a bit closer to the pass side rubber CV than you’d like. Over time it will probably shorten the life of your boot and compromise the CV. Kinda roulette though I’ve only had this issue once over the last 12 yrs and that was in the track car. I’ve left my DP /UP unwrapped for fire safety on track and don’t feel the issue is big enough to wrap my daily

My stuff got caught up for awhile too, prolly customs red tape

Yup, from a pure track focused approach thats what I would do. AC is long gone... But its just WAY more fun to show up at the Porsche club day with a stock- (ish) looking wagon and just do this...

Oh gosh no, I can't afford sanctioned racing so this car is just used for car club / HPDE days. Everything aft of the front seats is gutted. Cockpit is stock except for Schroth 4 point belts. Possibly start time trials in the future but again, even that is pretty pricey. Car is not caged, (yet.. again, price..), so yeah car is not a race car, its a track car

Good question, and perhaps "big boost" is a bit of a misnomer. Part of the equation is how the car is driven. The assumption is typically anyone thats putting down north of 350+ to the wheels intends to drive the car hard and is probably putting down in excess of 20+ lbs of boost to get them there. Its the amount of hard driving higher boost levels thats the X factor. While I do drive my stg 2 daily plenty spirited during a typical day, I don't beat on it lap after lap like I do my track car. If I drove like a mad man around town all day I'd run an AOS regardless of my power level but since the car just doesn't see that kind of abuse the OEM PCV system works fine.

If you're pushing lots of boost / big power then an AOS are definitely a must for engine longevity. For a stg. 2 build a (properly) functioning OEM PCV system is fine. Running a Crawford AOS in the track car, OEM PCV in my Stg. 2 VF52 daily with no issues.

Careful on those wheel spacers, our already crap 5x100 hubs are not very beefy and usually blow earlier than usual due to more force being put on the bearing

But but but, that would actually make sense Yup, the '05 is pretty much a track car. I do drive it to/from but not much else. Would love to just say screw it, yank the dash, flock it, and re-install. I don't have the stones to pull it and expect a painless re-instal so just haven't thought about it. Would almost rather do this than buying a new dash. Once its out I'm totally confident I could flock it.

I'm half tempted to fab up some patterns for Alcantara panels that I can just glue / bond to the dash in the track car. At this point its more of a visibility thing that impedes my view out the windshield on track. The dash is so shiny that if the sun hits it at the right angle it throws a heads up display type reflection glare in my windshield. Certainly no bueno anytime but especially on a track . I can clearly see which areas are affecting me most and a few strategically placed panels would help a ton. I'm afraid that whatever is leaching / outgassing from the dash would compromise whatever bonding agent I'd be using and it wouldn't stick. That or maybe it would leach and bleed through the Alcantara as it gets hot? I'd probably leave a small margin between the panels like 1/8" as I'm not trying to perfectly dovetail them together, don't think I could nail it seamlessly.

Sounds like you're sussed out with some good parts choices. I think you'll like the boost curve of the 16G for what you're doing with the car. As for DP's seems like everyone has their favorite, certainly Cobb and Grimmspeed make great units. There are others as well. I'm a Cobb kool-aid drinker for DP's and have used them on both my cars since '06. I do really like the spec on their cast bellmouth design as they as super beefy. The track car is on its second Cobb DP, with the first one finally giving out, (cat separated), after 9 years of daily driving / track use. Can't complain there. My stg. 2 Outback got a catted Cobb DP a few years back when I purchased the car stock from a forum member and went stg. 2. Note that I've stayed catted, (with both cars). Personal stance, just less douchey for the environment and typically less stinky as well with little to no HP left on the table with a 16G build vs. catless. Divorced bellmouth vs non, meh, haven't seen any real data beyond what seems more like window dressing so I wouldn't make that a huge factor in your choice. If you can find a decent deal off MSRP from any of the premium tier manufacturers you should be good. As for AccessPort, I've probably already chirped on it. I'm in the "buy the ticket, take the ride" camp. The plug and play useablity with live monitoring / gauges of lots of engine parameters, along with great local tuning support was a no brainer for me.

For someone that’s knows what they are looking at this should sell. Pretty spanky considering it’s age. Would be more at ease as a buyer if there was compression test info or a Blackstone oil analysis test to pay top dollar but I don’t See this sitting around very long.

Sweet bits!

Totally agree with your comments on these being super analog compared to pretty much everything thats come out since about 2010. I guess the ability to have all the nannies and turn them off would be a nice option but yeah these cars force you to take responsibility for any (potentially) bad choices you might make. I've had more than a few Nissan GT-R owners in the paddock give me a blank "what do you mean?" stare when I ask them I've they've ever tried to wring the car out with all that crap turned off.

Definitely would not delete the oil cooler but would put a new one in 100%. If your builder is suggesting this then I’m not sure I would want him to build my EJ motor