shralp

Looks killer!! Running my second set of those Conti’s on my summer wheels as well. Almost as good as the Pilots for a lot less cash.

Don't think you'll see gains quite that high but you'll get a nice bump for sure. More than anything you'll have a lot of headroom to rely on if anything starts slipping into dangerous margins. Lots of variables in day to day driving that are difficult to mimic on a dyno so its nice to have some insurance. Its been a few years but I think I asked for a 7 We've worked together enough now on both cars that we just use a 1-10 scale. 10 being tuned within an inch of its life and actually Chris wouldn't do that anyway. Since I get to flog the Legacy, I wanted something a bit more "safe" for my daily. More than anything, boost is tapered up high to accommodate the smaller OEM injectors and pump

Yup you do have to taper boost a bit earlier than you'd normally do if you had enough injector. This is what Chris did on my '08 Outback running OEM topfeeds / OEM pump for my JMP 11 blade VF52. He didn't mention short shifting to me and the car has been running fine for a few years now. Maybe he saw something in your particular set up that made him cautious? But yeah, add 1050's and you'll get every bit out of that VF52 with lots of headroom to spare.

Bump for a good guy with a sick track car! I know you mentioned thinking about selling when I saw you last fall, hate to see it go!

Pretty much what ^ said above. The 40/46 are essentially identical and can be swapped in without tuning but you won’t see any gains. You’ll need to go with aftermarket tuning (i.e.- Cobb Accessport) if you want to bump power beyond stock. Def need tuning for a bump to a VF52

I think the main thing that tips the scales for me in favor of the Cobb is the multi piece design of the Synapse. Looks to be multiple parts to put it together. It looks well built but there’s a lot more to leak there seems like. The Cobb is one piece unit so it would seem that maybe there is less to fail?

Ran the original OEM one in my track car for 15yrs until 2020. Was rock solid in my experience, couldn’t get my tuner to get it to leak on the dyno each time I had the car tuned over the years. Finally swapped out to the Cobb unit not because anything was wrong with it, but I just needed something to do with my stimulus money . Ive been happy with the Cobb in that the install was painless and it has also worked flawlessly. The Synapse ones look killer as in, artfully designed, but I just went with a known quantity because I have a long history with the brand. Still original OEM in my daily, don’t see any reason to swap it out.

Because its a track car I set the warning light to come on when the pressure is still fairly high as my concern is something happening when I'm at high rpm when I need solid pressure under high loads. Its always on when I'm at an idle as that's not a critical point for the car. You'd want to set it high enough so you have plenty of warning, i.e. - well before any OEM idiot lights come on but probably not as high as I have mine.

If you want something that’s a little better to alert you, you might want a gauge from Speedhut. They offer gauges that are programmable with a bright red LED that comes on the face of the gauge when it goes below your set point. I run their Oil Pressure gauge in my track car and the warning light really gets your attention when it lights up. https://www.speedhut.com/gauge-application/classic-street-rod/classic-temperature-gauges/classic-oil-temperature-gauge/2-1-16-oil-temp-gauge-140-300f-w-warning/

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Thanks for being the first to try this out! What a great option for those of us with older 5MT that don’t want to do a specB / STI style tranny swap. Just need to keep seeing the vape bro crowd wrecking their ‘15+ WRX’s so we have some supply! Wait, did I just say that?

Good example of a reliable, well thought out stg2 build right here without going over the top…

Good move, yes both TA and Cryo are highly respected remote tuners on here. Lots of guys have used them with good results. By all means when it comes to parts selection based on your goals, feel free to ask your tuner what they prefer but don’t be afraid to ask around to see what others are running with good success. This forum is one of those resources but definitely not the only one. Also, the tuner, the one actually creating your Accessport map, doesn’t need to factor into your actual parts decisions necessarily. They just need to know what you’ve done to the car, i.e.- “you’ve upgraded your valve train so I’m comfortable raising your redline 500 rpm to accommodate the increased efficiency of your larger turbo”. Your concern with them is the quality tune at the end of the day. Plenty of other reputable sources can help you select a cohesive parts build for your goals. Don’t be afraid to remote tune if you’re not comfortable with your local resources

$29 bucks per injector https://deatschwerks.com/pages/injector-services

Good to see that you’re recognizing that your kinda being oversold on your goals. It’s hard for some tuners to get their head wrapped around someone that’s not trying to go whole hog. As for injectors, the price between a smaller injector and a larger one unfortunately is pretty negligible. Honestly, if your just sticking with a VF46 you really don’t need more injector anyway, the turbo doesn’t really need it as it’s quite small. I’d go the cleaning and flow test route and put them back in, (send them off to Deatschwerks for this).

Based on your current parts and more importantly, your long term goals, you’re considering some things that you really don’t need. Definitely replace any lines, vac or otherwise, that look like they need it. A properly functioning PCV system is more than fine for your car based on what your doing with it. Stay stock. Keep your stock exhaust manifolds, you won’t see any gains going to headers and unless you spend big dollars you’ll get an inferior product. Could swap in TGV deletes since you need to replace the gasket but if you didn’t need to do that, I’d suggest staying stock. Yes they “can” fail long term but there are lots and lots of high mileage Subys running around with them just fine. Again at this power level you won’t see any gains, just piece of mind. New oil pick up is a good idea, just to ensure you didn’t get a bum OEM one that’s starting to fail. New fancy oil pan is totally pointless based on what your doing with the car, go OEM and spend your funds elsewhere. FYI the Moroso one is much less expensive than the Killer B one and perfectly fine. ID 1050 injectors are a great choice but way more than you need on a VF-46. No idea what your tuner means by “uncontrollable” there is plenty of injector there for a vF46 and there is nothing dangerous about an 85% duty cycle unless you have an exceedingly paranoid tuner with low confidence in his abilities. Your top feed unlike the ‘05-‘06 so the tuning issues some tuners had with older side feeds was alleviated. Wouldn’t go much over 85% but again, based on your goals for the car, if it’s cheaper to get them cleaned and flow tested, I’d do that. If you were moving to a VF52 or larger I’d have a different opinion Relocating the IAT and putting in a wide band is total overkill for your build. Seems like your tuner is approaching this like a big power build and neither of these are needed based on your goals and parts. Would definitely put a turbo heat shield back on, just too much heat coming off the turbo and your top mount intercooler will thank you. I’d take the money your not spending on your fancy oil pan and put a turbo blanket on WITH a heat shield as well. I’ve had both the Cobb and the GS. Both are fine. Flex fuel is cool if your going to run E85 but again, are you? If not then it’s kinda pointless. The main thing to keep in mind is to build for your goals for the car and unless you have lots of cash to bleed and don’t want to put that cash somewhere else, don’t spend where you don’t have to. The build sheet for my VF52 stg2 ‘08 Outback daily driver looks a lot different than my ‘05 GT wagon track car

Aren’t NA exhaust manifolds unequal length just like the Turbo ones? Pretty sure they are. Any free flowing muffler should give you rumble. You’re just not hearing it with the restrictive OEM cans.

Yeah Joe, pretty much what Code said on the UEL header option. Unfortunately you just don't gain much with them because you don't get rid of the boxer exhaust pulse inefficiency. Its a bummer to lose the burble going equal length but thats really the only place you'll see decent gains for the dollar spent. I ran stock manifolds for years until recently with the swap out to a Swaintech coated Killer B equal length. The stockers can take so much heat cycling abuse compared to anything else, it just made sense to me, (on both cars) to keep anything from failing. I'm still super suspect of most header manufacturers in terms of long term durability. Just seen so many of them crack over time. Guess that why I sucked it up for the Killer B to get the 321 stainless pipes over the typically used 304 from everyone else.

For sure, we'll have to connect with VespaGTS as well once the weather gets better. I've seen that silver sedan around here and there but no idea who it is. Yeah, its a bit of an uphill battle on the concept for AWD club. Something tells me it going to be a parking lot full of folks from your last paragraph

Ticking off a few winter projects now that the track car is back together after my deer strike in September. I ended up snapping my driver side Roo Duct in half when I tried to reattach new hoses. The ducts and my 4" hose were about 7 years old so no surprise that they had gotten brittle over time. Luckily Randy Zimmer is still in business so I contacted him for a new pair. He checked his records and my pair were early V.1 3D printed ones. Seven years later, he's on V.6! 3D printing has come a long way since then so these new ones feel much beefier and the shape has been massaged a bit. He now offers them with a round 4" round inlet or ovalized like my old pair. Opted for the round this time around so it would mate with my hose perfectly. My old set had started to get slight rubbing issues as I increased negative camber over the years. Randy was able to look at pics of my old set and re-configure the shape a bit to allow for more clearance. Glad I was able to re-use my old mounting holes so I'm good to go.

fairly ok walkthrough on youtube here: I'm still too much of a puss to try it

Mine is hazed just like that but no cracking yet.

Gotcha, yup you've got a newer set up than my caliper was. I ran mine for about 4 yrs if I remember correctly. Power and suspension mods finally got me to the point where they just weren't enough and thats when the StopTech Trophy kit went on. Can't say that the overhang is going to adversely affect the set up. Maybe a random squeak if its rubbing funny but given the expansion and contraction the rotors go thru you might even end up with a bit of air gap and only see near contact when they are hot. More than anything, that extra unswept rotor is still acting as a good heat sink which is good for longevity with your wheel bearings, etc. Would still rather have had it full contact as well but at least its doing something

Hate to say it but you need to get some advice from new friends . The two mods your doing here will do nothing to improve your cars handling or power. Stock intake is the best choice hands down until your making big power and a front strut back is virtually useless on our cars as the shock towers are so close to the firewall (which is stiffer than hell) that it doesn’t need additional bracing.

Not sure on the overhang issues you mention. For me this kit was more wanting to have a bigger pad to cover the unswept area that could be used to help stop. My brakeswap.com set up, bought used from a forum member on here, using my GT OEM rotor size, (11.3" if I remember?) gave me good wear since the pad had full footprint + some. I had mentioned my hopes that the caliper would cover more of the rotor face when I first installed it. Eric said it was a fair point, but this kit was designed to get someone into a good, non-floating caliper without breaking the bank, hence the OEM spec rotors. I ran the Napa Ultra Premiums with these as they were inexpensive and stood up to the street / track use my car was seeing at the time, especially for the money to replace them.