shralp

Anything that gets heat cycled to hell like this needs a thorough soak in PB BLaster before attempting to get in the ring

I’d say about 60% coverage around my DP what you see in the pic is about it. I’d figure the standoff plus 1/4” to allow for the thickness of the shield. Also it’s quite flexible so if you need to doink a spot to get around or past something it’s easy to form.

If it sounds like rocks inside of a can then your turbo may be starting to go. Once you get play in the shaft the compressor wheel strikes the housing and you chip on of the blades which throws the whole thing out of balance. Depending on how bad/where the imbalance is on the compressor wheel it can be rpm dependent. Would definitely have the turbo checked asap

They make a longer one as well this one is about 8” long. https://www.designengineering.com/stainless-steel-pipe-shield-4-5-x-8-5/

Put the DEI heat shield on my Cobb DP today. Easy fitment and enough room from underneath to get it on without tearing anything apart. I like the 1/2" stand-off pretty much what I had in mind. If its all good and stays put I'll definitely put one on the track car as well this winter.

Thanks guys happy to have her back! Yup, will probably but her to bed for the winter at this point except for a maintenance drive once a month to keep everything rotating. I’ll be chomping at the bit come March for sure. These new Hankook RS-4’s still have stickers on them since I never made it to the track!

Christmas has come early for me this year, the track car is repaired and back home! Huge shout out to Arcflash here in Bend for their work! After they were able to tear into it, they suggested that we forgo tack welding in the new radiator core support pieces and just nut-sert in the new assembly. Since its not a structural component there wasn't really any need to bleed more labor time for fab work. Also, if I do ding the front end again, (I better not!!), I can just unbolt the assembly from the car and install a new one. One added bright spot in all the destruction, my original headlights were getting pretty bad and these new JDM Depo ones have cleared corners which I think look much cleaner than the amber USDM ones. Overall, super happy with how this turned out. I was able to keep the entire bill under $3500 and based on the carnage I'm calling that a win. Couldn't have done it without the generosity of forum members rhino6303, Boxkita, and Gex. Thanks again guys, the RBP hoods and bumpers kept the cash hemorrhage down to a minimum. Some before and after shots below. Looking forward to next season!

Actually, if you look at the way he’s building his 5MT, I think he should be just fine. It’s more about the guts of the 5MT not being able to handle the power. That’s why Rallispec still sells all the burly kit. Remember, lots of high powered Suby rally cars back in the day running these 5MT’s. On a side note, comparing the two from track perspective, I would take my old 5MT over my my swapped in 6MT any day of the week on track. I never get into 6th and with closer spaced gearing, I was able to shift less. Sure like that extra gear on the drive to the track tho

Running Perrin on advice from my guys at Cobb Surgeline. But they installed it so no idea if it’s a bitch or not

oh man totally! never thought of that

Same deal here on my ‘08 XT daily purchased from a forum member out of Ohio. While he did a great job keeping the interior in great shape, it was still a salt country car. My front left drivers seat bolt and bracket look pretty much like yours, although thankfully not quite as bad. Still pretty manky tho. Appears that over time the elements get to the bottom of the exposed bolt and I’m guessing capillary action draws it up the threads where it gets into that seat bracket over time

Well that blows! I’ve heard nothing but good things about Agile during my years on this forum. Sucks for sure but I bet they will set you straight.

That V.1 AccessPort shed a tear the day Japan bombed Pearl Harbor. Holy blast from the past!

It does. Appears to be spot on but hard to day without one in hand. The price seems to be a sweet spot between total crap and unicorn tears Valhalla greatness so it seems to be a viable option.

Have always seen these grills out of China and wondered myself

Ho lee crap! Someone knows how to take care of a car! Hope this one stays in the fold with someone who continues to carry the good maintenance torch

Thats why its shocking that those lines are so close, at least they go from hoses to hard lines as they pass by but man, they are getting cooked I bet. Might look at options with some of the more flexible heat fabric options that you could wrap the whole double line pair as one to keep heat off them. Would also create a bit of a blocker between the UP and the CV as well.

Good stuff guys, sounds like there are various options out there that show some success. Might opt for this piece from DEI, I like the fact that its not a blanket so less issue with chemical saturation / fire risk. Full half inch stand off and it will fit the section from the bottom of the COBB DP cast bell mouth scalloped area down past the CV before it takes a turn to head under the car. https://www.designengineering.com/stainless-steel-pipe-shield-4-5-x-8-5/ Will also say after poking around down there a few minutes ago that the power steering lines are also frightfully close to my unwrapped Cobb UP. Hell, the UP isn't actually that far from the CV boot either

Actually don't sit in traffic at all really. I think its just that over time its just putting out too much radiant in that area. Wonder if that extended toss with that further modded JCW Mini Clubman from Portland to Bend in the heat of summer in July hastened its death. It was hot out and we were going for it hard for awhile

Hi all, When it rains is pours I guess. Knee deep in getting my track car put back together from this deer strike and now my Outback XT daily is on the skids Smelled and saw a bit of smoke yesterday at a stoplight wafting out of my hood scoop. Checked it when I got home, pass side CV is torn, (again...) and flinging grease all over my DP. Ugh, with this being my second pass side CV to blowout, its obvious that my Cobb DP is just too close for comfort and significantly reduces the life of the boot. Kind always knew that too so my fault for being lazy.. Don't really feel the need to do a full wrap head to toe on this thing and actually would rather look at some sort of blankey option that just covers that foot or so where the pipe is closest to the CV. Looks to be enough clearance to get one on without even pulling anything. Anyone have suggestions on options for this or personal experiences with a particular product? thx!

My longtime tuner suggested Koyo over the Mishimoto due to better fitment. Have been happy with it.

My scoop is going on the track car which is RBP so may not give you the best example. I'll post pics once the car is put back together.

Now there will be 2 Leggys in Bend with black CF hood scoops

Stainless lines, fresh fluid, decent pads and rotors. I’d try this first as it’s way more cost effective.

Oh man, no grill is a total recipe for getting a chunk of debris through your radiator at 100 mph. I see it happen to the grill-less crew once or twice a season