shralp

The universe is against me this year gents it appears that when the clutch blew up it damaged the snout beyond repair. OMG this is going to be the most expensive ‘08 Outback XT on the road you’ve ever seen by the time I’m up and running… Did I mention that recent compression tests on my built Rallispec motor (2017), indicate that the motor in my track car is starting to get tired as well? Jeez!

Farther away from you for sure but you might look at Zac Fothergill’s company ZF Design in Colorado. Thezfdesign.com he built my 6 speed for the track car and I’ll use him for my 5 speed in the future should I need it. Even being in Oregon, it was easy to deal with him and I got credit for many of the parts in my blown 5 speed that were still up to spec that he can use for future builds. Core and non core exchange options as well…

Looking at flywheels here, I'm wondering whether to go with an OEM or something like ACT's Streetlight flywheel, which is actually $20 cheaper than an OEM WRX one. Still kinda leaning towards OEM for good drivability in my daily. hmmm...

Thanks for all the info guys

Gotcha, so wow, based on your power levels you're running a ton of headroom with your 2+ rated at 420 ft. lbs. With their Stage 1 and 2 kits rated at 325 and 375 respectively, its surprising to hear that your 2+ almost feels stock. I'd be tempted to go stage 2 for an even more OEM 'ish feel since I'm only putting down around 300 ft. lbs in the car.

Gotcha, how would you compare your South Bend clutch as compared to stock? Happen to have part #'s? So South Bend doesn't make a clutch disc for our cars? Assume they designed it to fit with OEM Exedy? What did you go with for a flywheel?

Mods feel free to move to Transmissions forum, just seems like this one gets more eyeballs as the LegacyGT in its entirety doesn't get the traffic it used to... My clutch, (presumably) gave up the ghost yesterday while picking up my kid from school. Its my daily driver, stg. 2 '08 Outback XT. Pedal feel went all weird on me and within a few more shifts engagement went to hell and it starting stinking as well. Limped it home and by the time I got it in the garage it was even worse. Gearbox and shifting feel fine. Car has 101k mi on it, the last 45k of those at stg. 2. Not super shocked as the wick has been turned up for a number of years and hey, its got over 100k on the clutch. No idea how the previous owner drove it for the first 55K of its life. Reaching out to get everyones thoughts on what I should replace it with. I'm most likely never going to go beyond stg. 2 in this car and really don't want or need a heavy pedal feel. Really looking for something that's more like "OEM +" as I don't think its best idea to put in another OEM Exedy. For those of you running ACT, Spec, or Exedy feel free to chime in on your experiences if you would. Whatever route I go, I assume everyone suggests running the TSK-3 kit as well? I'll most likely just get a '06+ WRX single mass flywheel to match it to, don't really see the need to go with something lighter in my daily? Thoughts y'all? Thanks!

I know, they are more expensive for sure, but I've never had great luck with aftermarket wheel bearings so I only use OEM. For me, its an opportunity cost as they "can" be a bitch to replace. The lifetime warranty is nice but I guess I'd rather go one and done for a long time.

Yup, if you ask him to omit his custom paint options you’ll get an OEM looking unit back as it’s an IHI housing, it’s just the guts that change

With a good VF40 core I believe John can build you a few flavors from it a la VF52/16G as well.

Mods please move to Cars For Sale thread if desired, figured it would get more eyeballs over here… https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-subaru-legacy-gt-10/

Retired?! Your retired already? Nice! Also attempting to jump into the camper game but going Sprinter style as we want a smaller footprint. Taking delivery of a raw Sprinter 3500 144 in July. Getting it spec’d with a super single rear tire set up instead of the typical dally set up. With the Aluminum car hauler trailer I bought from Kip I can finally tow to the track now. It will go directly to my buddies Sprinter build out company, Kestrel Vans, in Whitefish, Montana for a few months for the build. Hope to get it back here in Bend before winter roads get bad.

Running a Crawford AOS in the track car because at this point the motor sees pretty much high rev, gas pedal to the floor driving conditions whenever it’s used. Don’t see that the OEM PCV system is a bad thing on your typical street car as long as it’s functioning properly so staying stock on my daily stg2 Outback

So you had a new VF-40 put in 90k mi ago yes? If it was brand new at install and you have been good with oil change intervals the you are fine. Wouldn’t spend the cash at this point from a preemptive standpoint but if you want a nice bump in power, your set to maximize that VF52 since you’ve already got an upgraded pump/ injectors. Ran this set up for a number of years and it was super fun on the street

Yup, its gonna be hard to get $29k out of this wagon for sure. Such a narrow set of people that would want a something like this. I.E. - a buyer that wants a GT wagon with an automatic tranny that's all vape bro'd out with stereo stuff and is all hat, no cattle in the terms of HP. Now I call that narrow

Honestly, I'm interested in some sort of "race car exemption" that allows those of us that will never register the car for public road use to be able to work within a more relaxed rule set. Of course thats like less than 1% of the Legacy owners out there. With the ability to tow starting 2023, I'm not sure how long my '05 will continue to stay street legal anyway. I'd rather be able to drive it from time to time on public roads but if my only out is pulling off the roads, I'll go that route. A lot is going to change in the next 12 months I bet with solutions coming online. I've been on great Accesstuner maps for so long now, going on 15 yrs, that I'm going to stay the course if I can find a workable solution. As for my daily, yup way more tricky. Was considering moving beyond my current stg. 2 JMP VF-52 on stock fueling at some point but now I'm just relying on a great tune that I haven't touched in 3 yrs. Hope it keeps running that way for awhile....

Heard back from Brandon at Cobb Surgeline in Portland yesterday - some info below although nothing super earth shattering... I was asking him about how this whole new paradigm would fit into my program, that being an eventual upgrade to an even larger turbo and the fact that I'm running TGV deletes and a catted Cobb DP currently. "Picking up OEM TGV's would be the most cost effective route. They're not going to be a power restriction now or later when you upgrade to a DOM 1.5XT-R. The turbo will still fit with the motors in place and it really is that simply to remove the butterfly valves. IAG announced last month they'll be releasing a new TGV housing that still receives the OEM motors. That might be something worth keeping an eye on but you'd still need the stock parts handy regardless. Up until this year, aftermarket DP's with high flow CAT's still threw CEL's. With the new GESI CAT available, Cobb has managed to make one that doesn't throw codes but it retails for $950! I believe your rear O2 sensor is still intact? Should be at the back of the DP. If it's missing, that sensor will need to be replaced too. (we are losing this function and I asked about clarification) "Gear based boost control allows us to tune boost per gear. We can dial in boost for each gear in case someone's car is prone to overboosting or in say 5th gear compared to 3rd or 4th. It's really handy for motorsport type driving and big turbo setups." Once the shock factory wears off, I believe there's going to be solutions in place for a lot of this. It's just a matter of when and what that will look like. A great Podcast from Flatirons Tuning in the new Cobb announcement here as well.

Gotcha, did a few back and forth txt on Instagram last night with Eric at Surgeline. Seems like other than having to put hacked TGV’s back in at some point, many of us that are running catted DP’s already will come thru fairly unscathed. Although I’m ‘05 so it’s a pre air pump car as well. Anyone wildly modified and/or running flexfuel is in for a world of hurt tho. Other than a costly, (labor) swap out to OEM TGV’s I’m hoping it will work out. I think pulling the butterfly out but leaving the actuators, rod assembly, etc is the answer. After looking at some vids last night i can see that the restriction is pretty minimal with just the rod left inside. It won’t affect me too much, if any, at my power level. Guess that future swap out to a Dom 1.5 XT-R down the road is going to be a bit more expensive:(

I've got a message into my guys at Cobb Surgeline to get some clarification, will post info as soon as I get the scoop.

Same form factor as everyone else’s offerings, no idea why it wouldn’t fit…

Pretty much not worth the effort and little to no gains unless your pushing big power. Not to mention hassles on a daily driver with weather, etc

If you can, find a fun sweeper that you know well, (on/off ramps can be a great choice), if you've pushed there a lot before with your OEM set up, drive it the same and you should see a difference

Check with these guys? https://www.legacyoddsnends.com/

When this was my first mod, (waaay back in ‘06!), I went full stiff with everything else stock in an attempt to dial out the inherent under steer. Didn’t seem to be too much to my taste

Unfortunately, while they look awesome and I’d love to have one purely for the aesthetic look, they don’t provide any downforce on our cars