DaveWaters

Unless you plan on tuning yourself, if you’re in central jersey, contact Rich at precision tuning in spotswood. He can point you in the right direction to get the most out of your car (hardware and tuning wise). He knows a lot of us do our own work and he respects that although they are a full service shop and he can repair, install, or build whatever you need. Most likely he’ll tell you keep the AP and use it for the tuning interface as Cobb has made tuning through the AP a safe and reliable process. Only caveat is that Cobb no longer offers support for the v2. I had my car tuned there and Kevin (the tuner) did a fantastic job, took his time, and for every question I asked, he explained everything in great detail.

Ok that makes some sense now about the TB cost. Since he most likely reused the tensioner I’d definitely check that. The tensioners have a process to reuse them where you have to very slowly press the piston back in over a certain period of time otherwise you can potentially damage the tensioner. So could very well be a floating tensioner. Preignition kinda sounds like coins in a coffee can rather than rod knock which is more rhythmic. A nice trick to quiet heat shield rattle is to wrap with large worm type hose clamps. Home depot and Lowes has pretty large clamps.

$80? Sounds more like an accessory belt replaced at that price. Replacing a timing belt is somewhat labor intensive and unless your mechanic is working for free or even for just a timing belt (part) $80 doesn’t quite sound right. The timing belt tensioner is the part that fails and makes the sound similar to a rod knock. Plenty of YouTube videos available. Check that out. Did this start after your mechanic was in there or before? If your car is NA and not turbo I believe the interval for plugs is 30k miles. Double check your owners manual or google to be sure though. Have you changed the oil since the purchase? How’s it look on the stick? Clean? How’s the level? If you can post a video it might be helpful too.

Ok. I kinda figured if the oe bar had none and never gave issue probably ok to run without. Thanks for the confirming.

Considered that too. I used my OE bushing brackets and they’re much narrower than what you’re using.

Wrapping up rsb install. From what I can see the AVO mounts will interfere with the whiteline lateral locks. Obviously at this point I’m leaving them off. Question is to those out there running this combo did you just run with none or source a different lateral lock?

Bummer. Sounds bad. I’d pull off the timing belt and slowly try to rotate the crank clockwise. Always rotate only in its normal operating rotation. With the belt off the valves should all rest at closed. You can slowly turn the cams to make sure they they are resting on the back of the lobes. You’ll feel a looseness to the cams when the valves are closed and a bit of resistance as they try to open. The idea here is to see if the valves are closing and you can turn the crank again. If this works then carefully setup the timing belt again and then rotate the crank manually. If timing looks good try to start. If you get a no start or very rough running you most likely bent valves. Next would be a compression then leak down test. But you can probably move forward with a rebuild or replacement by that point. Oh and if you can get your hands on a borescope you can pull the spark plugs and scope the cylinders. I the valves contacted the pistons damage will be obvious. Unfortunately all of the things I said most likely are futile at this point from your description. Good luck!

Trace the harness. When a car sits mice like to move in. Might find some repairable chew damage.

From the 06 owners manual. Manual and auto. 08 shouldn’t be much different. Note the shape of the dipstick handles in the pics.

At the recommendation of my tuner I went with the ID1050x injectors. In my case it was to get away from the side feed setup as well as provide support for the 16g evo3. It was also recommended to do parallel fueling and aftermarket FPR. I’m very happy with this setup as I run no fuel pulse dampers and there is absolutely no stumble.

This. And it can be tightened with the right length 1/4” drive extension (or combination of extensions) from space between turbo and ABS module. Just make sure you tape the socket to the extension so it doesn’t take off on you.

That only happens when you buy a legacy gt with a “New turbo” in the ad. Plenty of threads here about that.

Here’s some good info from COBB if you haven’t already seen it http:// https://www.cobbtuning.com/subaru-knock-monitoring-and-dit-knock-logic-changes/

DAM could be called IAM on a v2. It’s an important value because it let’s you know that there’s been enough reoccurring knock to pull global timing to protect the motor. It indicates you definitely have a problem if it’s at any value below 1.00. A properly tuned motor should only drop DAM if you put in lower octane fuel by accident. Only after it sees driving with diminishing knock values or after ecm reset will the DAM return to 1.00

Ok so definitely looks like 3” downpipe so should be ok to be stage 2 ots. That fine learned knock is a little concerning but considering you’re running an ots tune not surprising. I’d definitely recommend a tune asap. Check the DAM in realtime or log it if you want. No real need for the dynamic advance in the log. You could replace it with DAM. If DAM is lower than 1.00 you should be cautious because it means timing is pulled globally to prevent knock. There is tons of info here on LGT and over at nasioc about knock correction. Read up! It’s very interesting and will help you understand what the ecm is doing. COBB also has a ton of basic info on their website. Be cautious though and don’t get too carried away with boost right now till you get a proper tune because knock will make all your work up to this point worth nothing.

You should add some parameters to your log. I’d add AF learning 1, AF correction 1, Feedback knock correction, Fine learned knock correction, and Ignition timing. If you can, also add AVCS L&R as well. What you’re currently logging tells very little about what the ecm is doing. Realtime display on your accessport, depending on version, should include AF learn,1 AF correction 1, FBKC, FLKC, DAM. Are you running a 3” downpipe? If not you probably should stick to stage 1.

LOL Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not sure if this will work for you but worth a try.

Thanks for the suggestion! Here’s one for you. Don’t be a dick to someone who is potentially offering you assistance.

Info on the car? What do you mean by built? Is the car currently tuned? List your current performance mods. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I think everything you need is in posts 32 & 33 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-transgo-5eat-hd2-shift-kit-detailed-walkthrough-179771.html?t=179771

Awesome! Glad it worked out for you.

Driver’s side (disregard the smaller red wire) Passenger’s side Hope this helps

Theres a way through. It’s tough to find. I use a 3’ or so hvac zip tie with the end cut off to find the way. Then I tape the wire to it and pull it through. More flexible than a wire hanger but same idea. I’ll see if I can get a picture of both sides tomorrow so you’ll have an idea where to get across. I’ve pulled several wires including 4g amplifier power.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bit-pickle-need-help-282288.html?t=282288 What was the outcome?