DaveWaters

From the looks of that torque curve you may be able to feel the torque rolling off after that peak. Looks like it hits really hard but then rolls off somewhat sharply. As it comes down its still in a very respectable range but your butt dyno may feel that and you may perceive it as not pulling as hard as you expect it to. Do you feel like it pulls hard all the way from stomp to redline or do you feel like there’s a kind of plateau in the power? What I’m getting at is you may not need more power but an adjustment to the way it’s delivered.

Check out Headgames in NJ. Iirc their website has a lot of info on subaru builds. You could also give a call. Dave (the owner) is a cool dude and loves talking heads. I had them do my heads (stock refresh) 1 week turn around in 2018. A little pricey but I felt more comfortable with them because I got answers from other machine shops that made me feel like the others knew heads but not subaru so much.

06 LGT wagon 5eat 285/317 Dynojet tuned @ Precision Tuning 20psi BNR 16g evo 3 1050x top feed conversion TGV delete AEM 340 pump Aeromotive FPR w/ Parallel fueling G/S TMIC IAG AOS (Comp) Stock intake to turbo except AEM panel filter Stock bpv 2018 ej257 Heads rebuilt w/shimmed springs (Headgames) ARP studs Transgo vb kit Fluidamper The tuner explained that it’s making that power easily and safely so I can enjoy the car without concern of blowing it up. I definitely enjoy the car! The way I understand it the amount of loss through the subaru automatic drivetrain can be as much as 30%+. That said an automatic car making 300whp could be making ~430bhp. So for the sake of longevity 300whp might be the right place for stock internals on an auto LGT. Reason for the printout is so you can analyze the power curve. Ideally you’d want smooth power delivery right up to redline not a spike of power then drop off (dyno queen). Don’t forget with the hot weather we have right now here in NJ your butt dyno might be reading a little low on power.

I just watched your video again. I think you’re getting that code due to no connection to the map sensor. The little white filter should connect on one end to the front of the intake manifold and on the other to the map sensor which has a nipple on the bottom. Its the sensor on the metal bracket straight ahead of your fingers in this pic.

Honestly I’d put everything back to stock locations as per that diagram (don’t forget the pill) and reattach the factory boost control solenoid for now since you’re under the gun for the tune. Get the car running right first. If you’re not gonna lose a deposit you may want to reschedule. Otherwise get tuned on the factory BCS. Like DW said above an MBC doesn’t really make sense in a car that can control through the ecm. 3 port would be the right way to go but do you even need one with your mods? Your tuner would know best.

This may help

If you’re also doing the rear, the torque specs are 39ftlbs for bracket and 19ftlbs caliper. Smaller bracket bolts in the rear. I prefer to torque everything to spec. I also put never-seize on just about everything. Both make it way easier to deal with in the future.

Not sure but if the hose didn’t fit right you may have to use a reducer splice and a piece of smaller diameter hose to make it work. If it’s currently leaking there, that would explain the problem you’re having though. Maybe someone with a Perrin inlet will reply.

You need this http:// http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

Does that bov recirculate? If not did you make sure the bov return nipple is capped on the new inlet?

Top right is the procedure to realign the timing marks. They will be under tension but doing it that way means there won’t be interference. I turn them both at the same time which is made far easier with the Company23 tool.

I bought mine off the rack at autozone. 10 x 1.25 x 25mm 10.9 flange bolts. Edit: Just realized you’re looking for Downpipe bolts. Should be the same pitch as the ones I listed. The above is what I used turbo to uppipe.

Have you pulled the radio to check? If not I’d start there. On later model subaru head units there is a terminal that needs to be grounded in order for aux to come up when pressing the button. Maybe same for these. I’m sure the tech missed something putting it back together but its so easy to pull the radio that you’d probably be wasting a trip to the dealer to have them make it right. Word of caution: put an old towel or tshirt on whatever you rest the radio on so you don’t damage it.

I agree. Perhaps some engineer found that it drops brake temps by a few degrees or maybe it’s just to add tension to the pad to keep it from vibrating/squealing. All I know is it’s a g-damned balancing act getting the caliper back on and keeping both pads pressed in without getting grease on the rotor.

This is how the clips position. From what I can tell the spring is there to help pull the pad back off the rotor. There’s a little gap for the squealer to fit through. I orient the pads with the clips at the bottom so when the spring pulls back its on the side feeding the rotor when moving forward. I can’t recall if they could be oriented the other way or not.

Yeah Max banks refer to cyl banks but for our cars the exhaust only has a bank one since its after collector whereas the cam pos sensor avcs ocv etc can be divided into the 2 banks.

Max- I’d think that would be the downstream one, no? Since it comes after cat and can tell if the cat is doing its job. The upstream is pre catalyst.

Did you buy that to replace upstream or down stream? That’s the upstream replacement. Screws into exhaust manifold plugs in at passengers side strut tower.

The 16g didn’t have issues. The gen 4 LGT turbo oiling design and owner maintenance were issues. For him to warranty his turbos he wants a filter run inline and oil supply from a different location. I chose to follow his suggestion but I ran mine off top rear oil galley rather than sandwich plate and I added the FP red inline filter. I check my filter every oil change and have never seen any debris in the screen. Others here only run the oem line and will tell you they have no problem. Check out his website, he has links for everything you’d need if you decided to change the oiling.

I’m running a BNR 16g evo3. Been very happy with it. I have supporting fuel system mods as well (top feed inj,pump,fpr,parallel lines). I’m tuned conservatively to 285hp/317tq @~20psi My tuner said the engine is making the power easily. Being on a stock 2018 ej257 shortblock and 5eat I was looking for nice power but longevity as its my daily. You lose quite a bit of power from flywheel to wheels through an automatic so when looking at a big number at the wheels you could have a pretty big number at the flywheel. I’ve heard it can be as much as 30% loss on an auto. If thats the case I could be making over 400bhp. Thats a good amount for stock internals. I’m happy with the power delivery and it’s really fun to drive.

For your wiring issues, have you checked the vacation pics yet? http:// http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

You might want to flash stage 1 rather than economy during any troubleshooting. I think economy reduces boost quite a bit. Also how long has this been going on for? Meaning have you filled your tank more than a couple of times since this started? A tank of low octane gas is going to drop your DAM.

That’s a bummer that you had a bad experience. I’ve always found it best to email Melo as he would get back to me pretty much right away. Yeah Rich is one busy dude and like you said he knows his shit. From what it sounds you’d probably be best to move over the hardware you want from the 07 to the 08 and get it dyno tuned. Moving over a map from one to the other might be doable but its i would think it’s sort of an OTS at that point. Not really made for that car. Moving the ecu over would cause an immobilizer issue which can be corrected following the steps in another thread on this forum. If you don’t mind me asking. What happened with the 07? Is the car totaled or something?

Just taking a guess after looking at the pics side by side it looks like an oil cooler interference issue. Maybe someone will chime in with a definitive answer though.

Something no one has touched upon yet is have you data logged the 08? Your laughable gains could be because there is something going on you are unaware of like a massive timing pull. I know some of this has already been said but just to reiterate. The OTS tunes are specific to a stock engine (stg1)with certain hardware upgrades (stg2) like a catted 3” down pipe. If you aren’t running the oe turbo an OTS isn’t for you. You need a pro tune. The AP isn’t like a powerchip. If you dropped in stage 2 on an oe down pipe you definitely wont have any noticeable gains. If I were you I’d pull off the heat shield and see whats there under it. Guessing won’t help as a vf52 will need a pro-tune if thats whats there. Moving over the tune from one car to another might be doable, I don’t know. But if they don’t have the same turbo and supporting mods well then you might just be joining the YNANSB crew real soon. Listen, this forum is a wealth of knowledge... read read read. Use a search engine and end your search subject with legacy gt. It’s easier than the forum search button. I don’t think there are many Cobb fanboys here just guys who tell it like it is. You made yourself come across like a bobo by putting down a piece of equipment that actually works really well (most likely simply due to you not understanding its use). Lets move past that though. The majority of the guys here live LGT and really enjoy helping out others with what they’ve learned along the way.