DaveWaters

When I installed my top-feed ID injectors I discovered that it’s possible to plug the leftover tgv plug into an ID pigtail. Are you positive that the plug you’re using is the right one for the cam sensor? Looks like both the cam sensor and tgv are both 3 pin.

Do you have a means to datalog? As was already said it’s probably a timing pull due to knock.

Yeah that fuzz.

SC- you might have me beat! I figure prior owner never changed it out.

From what you’re describing with the compression test. That it hit 90 but didn’t hold pressure. I’d source a different tool, sounds faulty, as the tool is what holds the pressure. Honestly at this point I think a leak down test is more in line with what you need though.

I'll add that the filter is left off only long enough for oil to pour out where the filter resides then put back on, crank again and you should build oil pressure pretty quickly.

Here let me do it for you.... https://www.google.com/search?q=differences+between+ej20y+and+ej20x&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#sbfbu=1&pi=differences%20between%20ej20y%20and%20ej20x

The lines on the belt won't line up unless you rotate everything a lot of times. IIRC my gear marks were off just like yours after engaging the tensioner. I think I turned the crank a little more and they lined up just about perfect.

The hose that comes with the intercooler works with the VF52,46,40. It comes with a flange and Oring to bolt to the turbo. The outlet it creates is on top but you’d need the additional hose for the side outlet on an 1.5 xtr

The 1.5xtr has a hose type compressor outlet unlike the VF46’s two bolt flange outlet. The Grimmspeed and Process west can accommodate this.

For radiator hoses (top&bottom kit), the mishimoto 2008-2014 wrx kit is the one. Ancillary hoses, I’m not sure.

Don’t forget you’ll need that $85 hose I listed above as well because the GS TMIC comes with the flange mount and hose for stock turbo, which actually is why the AVO won’t work with the xtr. The compressor outlet on the xtr is STI style not flange style like the WRX/LGT. Also the GS LGT TMIC will come with the proper hood splitter which Process West no longer makes from what I understand. Although I believe boxkita on this forum may still have some custom made splitters available.

OP, This forum is a wealth of knowledge of what works and what doesn’t for the LGT platform. You need to spend some time here reading up on build threads and the stickies up top. Figure out what you want to do with the car and make it happen. What do you want to do with the car is the question. It sounds to me like you might want to have an awd car that at the push of a button becomes a drift car. Understand that vehicles like a durango and some Jeeps have a fulltime 4wd system that can be shifted to part time 4wd or rwd via a transfer case. This is a completely different setup from what subaru uses for their awd system. I don’t think you will find anything you can do to make the car awd/rwd on a budget. I’d check over at nasioc and see if anyone has done this on the impreza platform because that potentially could translate over to the LGT. Oh and make friends with google as it works better than the forum search engine. As for the other things you want to do to the car.... I know previous posts touched on some of this as well. Steering wheel w/QD? Do you really want to do away with the airbag? If this is a show car or race car ok but in real life it might just save your life. Throttle body? As has been said before, it’s worthless to a build thats not very high hp. Since this car is drive by wire I’ll bet whatever tb you’re looking at isn’t gonna work anyway. CAI. This is one of those things where hey you could spend your money elsewhere and get more bang for your buck. It sure does look nice when you open your hood but a good one like Cobb or Grimmspeed is going to be a black box anyway (not an exposed cone filter) and really isn’t necessary if your looking to make 300awhp range anyway. I don’t think it’s been discussed in this thread yet but blow off valve is a bad idea too. Stick with stock recirculating valve. No need for FMIC, bulletproof stock TMIC or aftermarket are your best way to go. GS makes a fantastic TMIC but is is $$. I don’t think you ever answered if you have manual or automatic trans. You will see more power loss to the wheels with AT over manual so keep that in mind. Also if you have AT and are increasing the power you may want to install a valve body kit to firm up the shifts. Have you done all the necessary upkeep to the car since you got it? Fluids? Plugs? Timing belt if it hasn’t already been addressed? Compression test? Leaks located and sealed up? Don’t forget to ziptie all the vacuum lines. Even better, go through and replace all dried up lines with silicone but don’t remove the restrictor pill at the turbo unless you’re adding the ebcs in which case you will need a tune other than a Cobb ots anyway. Best place to start as was previously stated would be Cobb stage 2 ots tune with a catted downpipe, and cat back exhaust. A catless up pipe from any year sti or aftermarket is a great addition for longevity. Once you decide what you want to do power wise then put together the parts install em and get a pro tune.

For the intercooler. A Grimmspeed tmic would be your best bet with the hose below. https://www.grimmspeed.com/top-mount-intercooler-turbo-outlet-hose-subaru-08-14-wrx-05-09-legacy-gt/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgYbhx8DP6wIVE9bACh0v7Q4uEAQYAiABEgKwd_D_BwE

Looking at that pic I'd say that the wires near turn lever are the steering wheel side of the clock spring and the wires near the wiper lever are the car side of the clock spring. Have you double checked that those on the car side are connected under the clamshell or wherever they go? Since you had so much apart perhaps they were overlooked on reassembly.

If you’re using a turbo heat shield or blanket have you removed it to confirm its not impeding the wastegate rod?

Smoke in that area could be a number of things. Since it was sitting a while it could be a valve cover leak. Another common cause is a torn cv boot. The inner boot near the up pipe is the one most likely to go first and throw grease on hot metal (at least on the gen4 lgt). Ideally you need to get under the car and have a look.

Negative, AP will not read srs codes

Have you been to the “walk throughs” section? Some good info in there.

I wouldn’t bother filtering the line going to the AVCS, just the turbo. I believe Bryan won’t warranty his turbos without a filter. If you’re good with your oil change intervals a filter shouldn’t make a difference. On my build I used the IAG kit because like you I had already purchased it. I only used certain parts though. I ran my passenger side AVCS off the back of the head using one line from that kit. I purchased parts from ATPturbo.com to make up the line from rear top oil galley to the “red”filter from FP (because thats the filter he recommended at the time) then I used the remaining line from IAG to go to the turbo. The banjo bolt I used on top of the turbo is unrestricted. All in all this made for a clean install. The same could be done using the sandwich plate. Btw I check the filter every 3k oil change and it’s always clean.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html This is the fuel pump wiring mentioned.

Looks like the 50-1215 is rated at 340lph now.

I had trouble priming as well. Was getting no reading on my oil pressure gauge while trying to prime my new motor. As mentioned above, the fix was to pull the oil filter and crank till oil comes out. (It doesn't take long) Then reinstall the oil filter. After that it built pressure no problem.

Dash cam or radar detector. Not oem.

The tgv sensor (part) just happens to also be a tps sensor for many models of I believe Toyota and possibly others. A tps is normally found at the throttle body. It serves the same purpose in a sense. At the tgv as its reporting the angle of the plates and it does the same in a throttle body application. To delete the tgvs means to remove and gut them like I did. A lot of careful messy grinding, tapping, jb weld, etc. Or remove and replace with commercially available tgv deletes. There are videos on YouTube that show how to delete if that’s something you want to tackle. Basically you clean them out and seal the shaft holes.