DaveWaters

I prefer to stay away from the ecu for connections since they can be easily damaged. You can use the thick green wire at the ignition switch harness coming down the steering column. If you run a wire from the column to the passenger footwell add a 5 amp fuse.

Not sure if you have this already....Vacation pics http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

Yup, I replaced every hose when I replaced my short block.

Oh man, guess you didn't unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate before splitting?

Max- not sure if that part # would apply since his cars non turbo. But like you said copper may not last very long and since the NA cars already have a short 30k replacement interval using NGK OEM recommended would be the way to go

Give a call to IPT. (973) 406-7000 In the past I’ve spoken to John and he was very friendly and helpful.

I just checked and it does “identify” as 2006 Legacy gt/Outback xt

Interesting, maybe original ecu was bad and swapped. Maybe was an AT 06 car but a trans swap to MT was done using an 05 ecu. Cross reference the trans # on the metal plate under the hood to see what trans the car came with from the factory.

I think early 06 was a 2005.5 ecu wise.

Nope. Looks normal to me.

If it turns out the ecu is applying ground to the main relay with the key off this is what I would do if it were my car. I’d get a standard bosch type automotive relay and wire the split wire at the ecu one side to #87 and one side to #30 (doesn’t matter which one goes where) then wire an ignition source to #85 and chassis ground to #86. This will close the ecu wire allowing ground to the main relay when you turn the key on and rest at open when key is off. Make sure to use an ignition source not accessory as ignition is on during crank and accessory is not. 87a will not be used on the relay.

Glad to hear! As for the timing belt guide, if the car is automatic you wouldn't have one (at least thats the way the lgt is). If manual trans. you should replace if missing.

Correct me if I’m wrong but unequal length exhaust manifold may be a problem in this case because I believe the 2.0 has a twin scroll turbo.

Apparently this is common. While discussing my build with the owner/engine builder at the shop where my car is tuned he asked me if I personally set up the valve lash. I told him no, the machine shop did but I checked their work. Then gave me a concerned look and asked, you did check them after torquing the heads to the block? I told him yes funny you ask because I did notice a very slight change in clearance which I figured was just due to the thick assembly lube. He said he was relieved because some people don’t and the heads do flex when they are torqued down to the block which can change the clearance. In my case I noticed the feeler was snug in one or two after the heads were mounted. Also as was said above if they go out of spec after the timing belt is on you’ve got bigger problems

Fuel lines. Have you taken off the engine cover? You’ll find they’re bracketed to the intake manifold.

Thanks solidxsnake. Did some research and parts are on the way to try the resistor mod. Most info I could find was for micro usb but looks like it translates to usb-c as well. Will report back with my findings.

What a great point. I hadn’t considered this. After some quick research I find the phone doesn’t support wireless charging though.

Done. Thank you!

Yes, confirmed before I bought it. Seems like it’s a common issue that otg data transfer and charging don’t work at the same time. There’s a fix I found with a resistor soldered on a the back of a micro usb (pin 4 to pin 5) but this phone is usb-c. Samsung Galaxy A01.

I picked up a cheap android phone to use as a dedicated btssm screen and can't seem to find a direct solution to otg + charging using the vag-com cable. Btssm works fine directly connected to the vag-com with a usb c adapter. I've tried a usb hub and that powers the vag-com but doesn't charge the phone and I've also tried a Y type adapter but that either charges the phone or connects to the vag com depending upon order of plugging in, but not both. Has anyone come up with a solution for this? Ive been reading through the nexus 7 thread but I don't think that the timur rom applies to the newer os (10)

Glad it was a simple fix. As was said above you may want add a small amount oil into each cylinder and turn over by hand a few times before start up.

After installing my ID 1050x injectors I turned the key on w/engine off to check for leaks. I heard rapid clicking, so I immediately shut it off and what I found was that I had accidentally plugged the left over (from delete) tgv sensor plug into the injector pig tail on #4. Not sure that you’re having the same issue but the rapid clicking and flooded cylinders sounds like injectors are being energized not just stuck open.

Woke up a 14.5 yr old thread to say the same thing as the new thread you started..... helpful....how about some pics of said brakes?

I think he means OTS maps

Ah yeah 07+ has tgv motor and sensor in one. Not sure if 07+ is the same but 06 most sensors share a common - shield back to the ecu and my tuner once explained that if a wire gets pinched and that shield is shorted to it can cause gremlins that are hard to find. I’d trace that cam sensor wire as far back as you can to make sure theres no pinch or short etc. When plugged in the short could pass through the sensor shorting the 3rd wire causing your issue. Also check fsm for any other wires that the sensor shares with other circuits in the car for short. Guessing something may have occurred during removal or reinstall of motor. How about the ground block on the back of drivers side tgv? 07 have those? Easy to miss those on reinstall.