DaveWaters

Hey Max, no good input from me about the shimmy but congratulations on the retirement!

To add to this, I'd also monitor fine learned knock correction (flkc). This is a learned timing pull due to a past knock event. It may not even be knocking when you see it post a -number but it's pulling timing preemptively in case an event is about to reoccur at that point where load/throttle pos/boost/etc.are the same as when a knock event occurred in its memory. If the number it pulls starts to decrease closer to zero that means it isn't seeing knock and giving timing back slowly. If you datalog you can see if there is a trend as to where its pulling timing. Also monitor AVCS L&R at least for one pull to see if they are way out of sync. Best way to see this is datalog but real time monitor will give you a rough idea.

What you’re referring to is the tgv sensor. The tgv motor is on the front of the the tgv assembly on the passenger side. And it’s opposite on drivers side (Lhd), motor to rear and sensor on the front. Are you saying the sensor has been fully removed or was the sensor damaged. I damaged mine removing the banjo bolt filter. It can be replaced with a tps sensor part # tps4117. The codes you’re getting refer to bank 1 which is passenger side. It can be replaced without removing the manifold and tgv, though it will tear up your hands and you may lose a screw or two so track down extras before you start. Stuff a rag below it to catch falling screws otherwise they will disappear into the abyss. Iirc you’ll need a shallow 7mm flex socket. As you can see from the pic, if the valve is closed only so much air can pass.

Ventilation for the transmission. They go nowhere.

Awfulwaffle- if you go the turkeylord route make sure you wire up the fpcm the underdog way otherwise you’ll end up with a dead battery if the car sits for a few days. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html?t=242295

Yup. Having no problem without them. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/-rear-sway-bar-lateral-lock-interferance-question-282885.html?t=282885

Don’t know the answer to your question but you may want to do this while you’ve got the dash off. https://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=89188&d=1282677161

Sorry to get you worried... haha. I see no reason not to use flanged bolts. Now get that thing on the road. 3 years is too long.

Hole closest to the end of sway bar for the softest setting. Think of it from a leverage perspective. Just a heads up, grade 8.8 metric is the equivalent of grade 5 SAE. 10.9=8 SAE. I think you’d be better off running a 10.9 at an endlink. Your call though, I always overbuild.

The doors trigger the alarm through the same switches that trip the dome light. I don’t believe our cars have a hood trigger. There was an optional shock/impact sensor available that is programmed for sensitivity by ssm.

Pull off the belts and see if it goes away. If it does first put back the a/c belt. If still gone put back the alt/ps belt. If its back you know its one of the two. My idler pulley was my noise maker back when I bought the car in 2017. This is how I found it.

Here’s a good explanation of hot weathers effect on performance. https://www.aet-turbos.co.uk/turbos-and-temperature-summer-weather-and-turbocharger-performance/

Call IPT. They’ve been really helpful with questions I’ve had. I’m sure they can point you in the right direction.

Don’t concentrate on only the MAF. When you unplug the MAF it puts the ecu into an open loop map so it ignores the sensors and runs a preset map. Sort of a limp mode. Check your upstream o2 , blue T (if 08 has one) , and your OCVs. Also what codes did you have?

50-1215 is plug and play. The strainer in the box is rectangular so I replaced it with an oem style replacement. There’s a thread on here somewhere that has a part # for the strainer.

Wow! Glad you pulled the turbo back off. I had considered a rag but figured the car wouldn’t idle right with a major clog like that. No boost at all, no shaft play, no noise, no cels really had me at a loss.

Electronic boost control? If not was the pill retained for that turbo? Did you replace the vacuum line that had the pill? I’d think without the pill it would still fall back on spring pressure and make some boost. I’d double check the boost control vacuum lines for proper connections if you took them apart.

Definitely scratching my head on this one. Any odd sounds when you put your foot into it? Making no boost would make me think wide open waste gate flapper or pre turbo exhaust leak or big boost leak like i/c to throttle body hose. What performance mods other than Cobb dp? Up pipe, 3port ebcs, aftermarket intercooler? Just so we’re on the same page when you say bpv you mean the recirculating valve on top of the intercooler not the wastegate actuator? When I run into an issue after working on the car I think back on what I did. What was everything that you did? You said replaced some gaskets and what else?

Bypass valve would be tested with vacuum not pressure. Any CEL? Did you take the car for a drive to check for boost or just rev it? You’d need a big leak or broken turbo to make no boost at all. Are you using a invidia downpipe? They have a divider that the waste gate flapper can get hung up on and stay open.

When installing the front cam cap did you confirm that no sealant got into the passages? This made me very nervous when I was assembling my motor. Looked just too easy to inadvertently clog. Do you have an accessport or another way to monitor the AVCS or OCV?

Sounds like they forgot to plug the antenna back into the radio. Save a trip and pull the radio out yourself and plug it back in. Just be careful with where you rest the radio as the brackets and body have sharp edges. Lay down a towel on the center console to protect it.

Maybe a dumb question.. were the butterfly valves removed when the tgvs were deleted?

Windows down driving through town near buildings is when I notice it most. I need to look for it if the windows are up. Sounds kind of like the turbo on a school bus. Just not as loud.

Thats good. I figured it can’t be that bad because you’re still making good torque. I just figure that sudden bump might the feel off a bit. Bet that pull to the torque peak feels wicked.

Sounds a lot like the turbo spooling whistle from the speakers on my phone. My 16g sounds like that. It’s most noticeable driving around town. Iirc my vf40 sounded like that too. I always attributed the extra sound to the AEM panel filter or Cobb downpipe.