DaveWaters

Move the ocvs to opposite sides and see if the laziness follows.. if it does you have a bad ocv. If not could be oil flow restriction or bad / contaminated avcs cam gear. Do you still have the banjo screens installed?

I believe Cobb will reflash an AP to the proper vehicle for you for around $150. Might be worth it if the deal is really good. Check Cobbs website or call them before you buy though as I don’t want to misinform.

Could be. Do you still have the old ones laying around? If so throw them back in and see if you get an immediate difference. Put both back though for comparison. Not sure if DAM will cause a pull in cam timing or just ignition timing so that may not play into this. Someone here with more knowledge of that may chime in.

What are you using to monitor? The ocv duty cycle L&R is where you would see 9% etc. and avcs in L&R is where you’d see numbers up to like 40*. If it is your avcs that is rising to only around 9* at wot hopefully someone else here will chime in with some insight. How’s your DAM look?

You could try one of those recharge kits they sell at the auto parts stores. You may have a very slow leak somewhere.. Whenever one of my cars starts getting a bit warmer, I top it off with a kit and it generally holds for a year or two. You could even buy one with uv dye so if it gets warm again right away a black light will help you find the leak.

I just replaced my rear lines this past week. Barely any fluid is lost after cutting the lines at the back seat. I used the harbor freight vacuum bleeder that connects to an air compressor. It uses a fill bottle at the reservoir so you don’t have to keep topping it off. Worked great although I saw a lot of bubbles in the bleeder hose which I think were introduced at the bleeder screw. After seeing fresh fluid I had my son help with manual bleeding which resulted in no bubbles at all.

Right.. but if the module isn’t causing a problem in the circuit, by unplugging it you can rule it out. If you unplug it and get your headlights back you know its bad. If you unplug it and there’s no difference then back to diagnostics and no need to replace drl module.

You can unplug the drl module to rule it out. Your headlights will operate like normal just no drl. The info is in the cheap and or free mods sticky at the top of the forum.

I’m not sure about the catch can routing but this is the story of my life... You may already have, but I’d check all electrical connectors and vacuum lines near where you were working. Did you disconnect the battery? If so you may just need an idle relearn. Any MIL?

Now that I read it again, I think you’re correct but I think what it’s saying is to shift when ssm indicates the correct throttle position. I used my AP for throttle position and would hold it as steady as possible at set throttle position and allow it to shift on its own. I may do this again this weekend but manually upshift to see if it feels any different after.

The way I read it all the learning is done in (D) drive.

About 3 weeks after my stage 3 dyno tune I experienced what seemed like 5th gear slipping at about 6psi of boost while driving up a slight grade in D. I also had a hard 4-3 downshift. I called IPT to inquire about upgrades for the 5eat and discussed what I was experiencing. It was suggested to me to check for transmission codes as there may be codes present that didn’t throw a mil. I did this and there was nothing. It was also suggested that 5th gear most likely wasn’t slipping but 4th to 5th shift wasn’t engaging. As if it would go to shift but never actually make it to 5th even though my AP displayed 5th. This was most likely an electronic issue due to the tcu being confused by the changes to the ecu due to the tune. I brought this up to my tuning shop and they scanned with the snap on scanner and also found no trans codes. They “reset” the tcu via the snap on scan tool but that didn’t help. Shortly thereafter I bought the VAG-COM cable above and free ssm and was able to clear memory 2 as has been discussed in threads here. That worked. I got 5th gear back and a smooth 4-3 downshift. The upshifting is still long at times though which I hope will be resolved with the trans-go valve body upgrade that I’m planning to do soon. My guess is that the tcu is a learning module like the ecu and can learn bad behaviors depending on the information it gets from the ecu and your right foot.

I too followed the fsm. I used ultra grey. Don’t forget to use sealant around the half moon cam plugs. Just about 3k on the build and no leaks.

Yes, unless you can get a snubber with that same thread pitch combo. Brass is fine.

Subaru oil galley adapter is bspt (British standard pipe thread) in the center.1/8” npt (national pipe thread) will not thread into 1/8 bspt. It’s close but will damage threads if attempted. What you need is either an adapter or snubber that is 1/8 npt female to 1/8 bspt male. Or get the pro sport oil galley adapter which is the right fit for the block and already 1/8 npt female in the center. In which case you’d need a snubber that is male and female 1/8 npt. This is all based on your sensor being 1/8 npt male I guess my question is do these engines have strong enough oil pressure spikes that require us to use a snubber?

The cam caps need to have sealant there. Because there is oil present on the inside but it is a very narrow area and its also a bearing surface on the inside where assembly lube is used. So if too much lube is there or the person who assembled it didn’t properly clean and add very little sealant to the surface I could see it ooze out. Most of us use either threebond or ultra grey. Perhaps the builder used a high temp red sealant. If it wipes away like oil/grease that might be a cause for concern. If its dry like sealant you’re probably fine. Check the fsm for the cam cap assembly procedure so you see what I mean.

Please tell me that the red stuff squeeing out of the front cam caps just behind the cam seals is sealant and not assembly lube

Water pump hoses off the bottom of the pump go behind the timing cover as well and connect to the hard lines that run atop the block and don’t forget the avics banjo minus the filter that goes in before the cover goes on.

If they do the work don’t forget to tell them to throw the 8 leftover cans of brake cleaner in the trunk for you.

Man that sucks!!... Glad everyone is ok.

Thanks.. I definitely plan on doing that. I may also route the line across in front of the seat under the carpet but high near the base of the seat if doable.

I'm gonna do this as well before I end up with a ruptured line. Recall was done before I bought my car and when I inspected it recently it looked like crap coated in wax. Any chance you could post a list of what you used? It would save myself and others some time putting together what we would need. Thanks -Dave