DaveWaters

I think your question was answered here. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/awd-selectable-rwd-284852.html?t=284852[/ URL]

Cut the lines under the back seat and ran the right side out where the old lines exited and crossed in front of the back seat under the carpet for the left side. On the left I used an existing grommet to exit the interior. Under the seat worked out great. I don’t think it took even 2 hrs to do. April of 2019. About 15k miles since. No problems. 3/16 NiCopp for the lines and m10x1.0 fittings and brass couplers.

I might be completely off base here but I think I read somewhere that the clutch fork is prone to cracking on the 5mt. Might be worthwhile to check.

Double flare. 3/16" tube. 10x1 metric invert flare fittings.

Just to clarify, you are using all 4 BRZ wheels not one BRZ and 3 LGT?

Mine kept doing that too. Zip tie through the hole at the end solved it. Quick fix. Not necessarily the right way but it works.

Just a matter of time....

Also keep in mind that with the 5eat there is much more driveline loss than with a MT. That being said to make 375hp at the wheels, the crank can see as much as 475-500hp with a 20-25% loss. This is the reason my tuner left power on the table with my car. I kick myself for not going forged and only oem ej257 when I replaced my shortblock.

PM 05MNLGT he may know.

I used a new 2018 ej257 purchased from Heubergers for my 06. At the time there wasn’t that much info about the RA sb so I passed on the RA.

This may help. http:// https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-an-ej255-and-an-ej257

I believe there have been problems found with the drive by wire gas pedal that throw that code. Some have inspected, cleaned and re-seated the plug at the pedal and some have replaced the dbw pedal assembly itself to resolve this problem. I’d start with inspect clean and re-seat.

You should take a look at the vacation pics to see if there are diagnostic procedures pertaining to the actual code not the p0700. P0700 iirc is a general trans trouble code. Taking the car to an automatic trans shop for diagnostics would be an option but depending upon the shop they may just recommend a rebuilt. The valvebody comes out through the bottom after you take the trans pan off. No need to pull trans for that. The way I understand it 05-06 or maybe also 07 don’t have replaceable solenoids. So replacing the whole vb is the only option. You may want to consider draining the fluid and replacing what comes out at least once to see if it makes a difference. Stick to the Subaru hp fluid at least for now. Also note that the trans fluid dip stick is on the driver’s side and front diff dip stick is passenger side. If you do decide to junk the car in the end you can recoup some loss by parting it out here in the FS forum. Then junk whats left. The vultures are circling as we speak.

They could last another 80k but do you want to take that chance? Timing belt replacement schedule for 4th gen is 105k or 8 years. Most will replace the water pump as well as all the pulleys and tensioner while in there. The Aisin kit is what I used and I believe most here who’ve used it would recommend it. Fill us in on some info about your car. Guessing it’s a legacy? What year? Turbo or n/a?

Load leveler will make the job so much easier. I used the cheap HF one and other than the knob on the crank constantly coming off it did its job. Carefully lower the motor into an old tire to work on the back of it without it swinging from the hoist.

Yeah no not a GT. Seller either has no idea what they have or just full of shiz.

I experience a similar issue. When I brought it to my tuners attention he told me that it’s heat soak causing this. Which makes sense at least in my case because what I’ve noticed is that if I drive for a while, when I stop and idle my LTFT is low like around 0 or .78 and will gradually rise to 14.84 the longer I sit and idle. I see this often at the drive thru. My wideband does show me hovering around 14.7 the whole time so it would appear that the ecu is making the needed short term corrections.

I had a phantom low flkc while running lwcp. I switched to fluidampr and no longer get any flkc. Been a little over a year now. My tuner was amazed. (Note: 5eat).

This is what I used https://www.grimmspeed.com/stock-dp-aftermarket-3-in-catback-adapter-subaru/

Guessing you don't want to use the grimmspeed 2.5" to 3" adapter.

Have you checked the parking brake assembly?

Maybe this will help

I used all oem hoses except vacuum lines. I ordered the oem from Heuberger because the prices were reasonable, website was easy and they had $12 flat rate shipping. The vacuum lines are bulk turbosmart brand silicone which I ordered through amazon or ebay.

Awesome! Good work!

I’d at least temporarily run a wire from the column to the relay just to make sure the ign source at the ecu isn’t the issue. You could set it up with the ground like you said but the relay is no different than flipping the switch that was there before so I don’t think it would make a difference. Also maybe relocate the ground off of the bracket.