Infosecdad

The tabs are just for alignment. There is a small piece (tab) of plastic that pushes down into the gap (in the second picture). You can do two things: - You can use a depinning tool (or sharpened paperclip from the front and catch the tab and lift it up so that you can pull the pin out. - You can use a wider flat tool from the back side to try to jam up the tab and push the pin from the front out the back. I've done both in the last few days as I'm in the middle of depinning some fuel pump controller plugs to replace with heavier gauge wiring.

What are you using to try to de-pin the connector?

Looks great, do you have a link or example?

GPTZero says that

I would agree. After all this, I would be highly suspicious of the tires. As most good tires are $100+ each, I can't imagine how "good" primewells are.

That sounds like a radar detector for speed traps...

I'm more used to the other style of mounts (rectangular), but those plates are normally part of the mount.

Can you provide more details? Any other changes to support the VF-52 like fuel system upgrades, exhaust, tune, etc? If you are missing gaskets, that would definitely cause a leak.

You'll know if it's an '05 by looking at the front passenger seat frame. If there are four large metal "brackets" between the seat and frame, it's 2005. They had a large occupant detection system, '06 and later used a bladder in the seat bottom.

The failing fuel pump was replaced with DW 300c. Getting too practiced at replacing, so going after the wiring as well this time. Trim pieces were pulled to aid in upgrading the fuel pump wiring. Tomorrow the DW wiring kit comes and I'll wire 10g and relay from the battery to the pump through a relay. Tuesday the soldiering station upgrade comes and I'll finish the wiring of running the 10g ground from the controller to the pump for the PWM. (What good is a project if you don't get to upgrade some tool?) I'm going through the controller to try to keep stock 33/66/100 capabilities and I know the STi controller has heavier wiring than the LGT controller so it shouldn't have trouble with the increased voltage. (The LGT might have been fine, but I'm all for something more engineered for this.) Found a couple of interesting points from an iWire article. https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/what-is-a-fuel-pump-controller-fpc I didn't realize that NA doesn't have a fuel pump controller... That's kinda important if you are going to turbo...

Yup, looks just like that. If you pull off the wiring there, the LGT plug will fit right into the black connector. I have the pigtail for the other end (white), so I may use that as it's much heavier gauge wire.

Digging into it, looks like Cobb did release some maps for 2010/2011, but stopped. 2012 only had 220ish LGTs so they didn't invest there. According to the wayback machine, the last time it saw the 2011 maps was Feb 2012: https://web.archive.org/web/20120205210247/http://accessecu.com/accessport/subaru/lgt/LGT-Map-Grid.html Still trying to see if I can find them archived somewhere...

I ordered the DW wiring kit, but I'm going to run it to the STi controller. Depin what I need to, wire up the kit to the controller, and the 10/12 gauge wires from the controller to the pump. Should happen early next week, assuming I get my finals written so I have the time (next week is finals week).

Subaru also still offers all the owners manuals back to 2000 https://www.subaru.com/owners/vehicle-resources/manuals.html 2002 Legacy GT Manual: https://cdn.subarunet.com/stis/doc/ownerManual/MSA5M0201A.pdf Page 93: `NOTE With the valet mode selected, the security system does not operate and the parking lights do not flash when the remote transmitter is used for locking and unlocking. The security system indicator light in the combination meter flashes twice per second to show that the valet mode is selected. For details, refer to “Valet mode” in this section.` Page 96: `To exit valet mode, open the driver’s door and keep the “UNLOCK/ DISARM” button pressed for more than two seconds. The indicator will stop flashing.`

My car is full of little fixes to address factory weaknesses. Can't tell you with 100% certainty that the voltage increase did the coils in. Right now I'm at 13.9-14.2v without it, so I'm good right now. If you want to test it out, I'm pretty sure I can find it and send it to you so you aren't dealing with shipping from Australia.

I don't know of any kits for it. I know a few people bypassed the controller for 100% duty cycle, but I personally don't think that is a good idea after researching. OG threads. Some upgrade the wiring to a heavier wire and others also replace the LGT controller with an STi controller part #22750AA010 I'll be in the second camp.

I did the alternator boost with the fuse trick from Australia. It boosted the output, but I think it may have shortened the life of my coils with it. So I reverted back to standard setup there. I'm going with the heavier wiring to and from the fuel pump controller to help combat the voltage from smaller wires.

I’m planning to do the same. I have a ‘07 STi controller and plan to upgrade the wiring as well.

The "white coolant light" is the marker that indicates what type of gauge that is. Hopefully, it doesn't go out.

I usually trust that the designer would have the logo straight/forward/right side up/etc, but have also seen strange scenarios where it was the opposite. I don't see any other way for it to fit than to have the logo upside down. Maybe it's also for top mount oil filters and is right side up when on the top of the engine where you can see it?

Maybe I'm totally missing something, but wouldn't the o-ring mentioned in the diagram be that black "o-ring" on the GReddy sandwich adapter?

If you decide you don't want it, let me know, I may be interested.

I'm running an STi FPR and get a good steady 40-42 psi base, then up from there with boost. I'm going to go through the parts stash to find the STi fuel pump controller and install that with the DW 300c. Hoping to keep that good and stable for several years.

If the code reset is a full ECU reset, then yes it would impact the idle. If you do it again, just do the ECU reset, turn off all the accessories/climate/lights/etc and just idle for 7-8 min and you should be good to go.

Nice find, hopefully one of those two will work for you.