Infosecdad

I have the primitive skid plate and I love it. I got the thicker 3/16" version, it's solid. It's three bolts and is super easy to remove if needed. I also have the rear diff plate.

Are you referring to 05-06 pre-facelift or 07-09 post-facelift? For my pre-facelift '05, I swapped in a JDM 3.0 Spec B front bumper and headlight mounts and was able to use the USDM fender liners and undertray (which was later replaced with a skid plate) and they fit just fine.

Great progress, nice work. How are you doing the alignment? It's been on my list of capabilities that I want to add.

Where are you located?

When you did the head gaskets and new timing belt, did you replace the three timing pulleys (two smooth, one toothed) as well? Most belt breaks I've seen are when the bearings in the toothed pulley seize (I had one happen to my '99 as well.

Ouch, that's not good, did the toothed idler pulley seize?

I need to get my father-in-law's truck off my quickjacks so I can get mine back on to inspect for ECM...

It can be a little notchy on occasion before it's warmed up. Not sure if that is normal for a cable-shifted tranny or if it's because I have a 180k tranny that I picked up for $400 and swapped in. I'm gonna go with a lower mileage WRX tranny at some point.

The set I have I bought off Rhitter and he said they were "Front two white dots (ST2033021000 ) rear two blue dots - wagon specific (ST2038021020)". I can ship them to you or bring them to ECM if interested, just let me know.

I may have a set of pinks

I generally stayed away from Mobile 1, none of my Subarus liked it as it seemed to thin out way too fast. I'm LiquidMoly for a couple and Castol for the others.

I have the CZ P-01 and the CZ 2075 RAMI, they are my favorites.

I can't unsee a little elf pinnned in there desperately trying to hold onto the FMIC...

I have almost no drivetrain jerk/shudder/slop. But I also have GroupN/STi engine, transmission, and pitch stop mounts, tranny cradle bushings, solid bushings for the driveshaft carrier, rear diff inserts, and WRX/STi diff mount. If I encounter it, it's my fault as I've mistimed my heavy clutch.

Sound-wise it's nothing like the 5MT, I was really surprised when I first drove it. So much noise that I was used to was apparently tranny noise, and the vast majority was gone. I can't promise that'll be the same for everyone, but that's what I'm experiencing. I have Group N bushings all over and the beatrush solid bushings on the driveshaft and drivetrain noises are still notably quieter than with the stock 5MT.

I was probably one of the threads you found for the cable-shifted split-case 6mt that the 2010-2012 LGT and 2015+ WRX use now. It was based on the 6mt Subaru built for the diesel in EU. Honestly, installation of the WRX version is simple as replacing a 5mt. Almost everything is the same for the WRX variant (not the case for the LGT version, but that's a different story). Mounts, clutch, plugs, driveshaft, etc. The only modification you need is to slightly widen the opening for the cable shifter, and drill a couple of holes. A shorter shift boot is nice, I modified my 5sp boot to fit. Two major benefits of the split-case 6mt. 1. Lower RPMs = better gas mileage and less noise 2. The cable shifter is much quieter than the direct linkage. I had my 5mt with all the bushings to make it tight and smooth and the cable shifter isn't quite there; but it's close enough that the reduced cabin noise and 6th gear/lower RPMs are 100% worth it and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I love that I can take a 2023 6mt transmission and install it in my '05 wagon as a direct swap if I needed to.

Beautiful wagon, now you have me return to thinking about painting mine Steel Blue Mica...

Those are vent hoses for the transmission, they are supposed to be like that.

If it's open sourced, then you should get a tactrix cable, pull the tune, and post it. It would tell us max target psi, what size injectors, and a host of other things.

I shouldn't have any trouble throwing it in, I should have the bolts/plugs needed as well. (I need to start keeping a list as it's growing...)

AFR correction like that is probably more of a vacuum leak/bad MAF/etc than fuel pump.

I have two of the lower aero trays for a GT.

That's an STi style turbo with that outlet, not an LGT style. There should be a block on the front of the turbo that's flat with etching as to what it is, but it may or may not be there. Those look like stock 550 yellow tops, but I don't think they can push 370hp without modifications to them. I would proceed with caution, make no assumptions, and question everything at this point. It's going to take a bit to figure out what is going on. Is the tune opensource or access port?

If it dynoed at 370hp with stock injectors, they are being pushed beyond their limits. I don't think I've heard of the stock injectors making over 320-330hp (crank), so I can only imagine their duty cycles are maxed out. How many psi of boost? 370hp will be really hard on stock/oem turbo and fueling.