Infosecdad

Question. Looking at the COBB stumble fix install guide, it says to install the FRP with the vacuum port on the bottom. But most of the images I can find on this site have the vacuum port on the top, is there a reason for this?

I ran into that about once a week, couldn't figure out it out, I suspect there was enough of a draw/trickle in the line that the tablet would think it was still plugged into power and not go into a deep sleep. I fixed it by installing a little kill switch on the console down on the driver's side, hidden by the front edge of the seat. Works great.

Send Andrew over at Zealous a note asking about that, he might be able to help.

http://zealousinteriors.com/product-category/subaru/legacy-2005-2009/ Had their boots on a couple of cars now, nice stuff.

That's awesome! I had a similar mounting strategy with the brackets in the back of the tablet. I choose to mount the USB hub under the shifter trim so that I could add/remove devices as needed without removing the tablet. I love that you figured out ways to invoke the buttons, that will be very useful over time.

Here are a couple pictures during the install. They fit quite nicely, one day I'll get a JDM rear bumper and they'll be a little less tucked in. No melting so far, several 10 hr drives, just get dirty back there over time; nothing the occasional car wash hasn't been able to clean up.

I have the HKS Silent Hi-Power with stock mid and Invidia catted downpipe on my 2005 wagon. Love the sound, it's there, but not too loud. There is a little drone around 2200 rpm, but for highway driving >65 it's nice and quiet. I used to have a set of 5" Nameless axleback, one of the best sounds for accelerating, but the drone just killed me on the highway. Overall, I'm much happier with the HKS Silent Hi-power. If you go that route, remember that in Japan the rear bumper is shorter, so if you match your body style, they will be tucked up a bit (unless you replace with a JDM bumper, which I'm planning to do at some point). The wagon set will be a little longer and may fit better on a US sedan, but I haven't seen it in person.

That would be useful for sure, I couldn't find one for a reasonable price when I was looking, so I tether to my iPhone for Nav and streaming on trips.

I have two 16gb USB drives on a small hub off my 16gb nexus 7 (2013), works great!

I'm running stock mid-pipe and HKS Silent Hi-Power axleback. I can try to post a 3rd gear pull when I get a chance. Though I'm wondering if it's not going to help because I just realized that I'm an '05 w/ VF-40 and most of you are talking about a VF-54 setup for 2010-14.

I have an Nvidia Catted downpipe and would see peak boost around 15.5lbs with stock BPV and 16.2 with a GFB BOV. No overboosting issues with this setup. Thinking maybe if it was a catless, but that the HFC provides enough restriction to keep it at bay.

Thanks for the pictures and walkthrough. Took me just over an hour start to finish. That hanger puller trick was perfect, was able to pull each of them out with that.

There is a "vacuum" from the main exhaust, right? That should help pull the gases through at the sharp angle. Not as good as a physical barrier, but there should definitely be a good draw.

I ran into the same thing on my '05 wagon with JDM Bilsteins, I was told it was because they are spec for the 6spd tranny which is heavier. So the front rises a little bit on ours.

Ah, I was a bit out of it. You are talking about shortening the flapper arm, I was thinking you were talking about shortening the actuator arm and it didn't make any sense to me. Now I see why :-D

Wouldn't we need an actuator that has a little bit longer range of motion? To open the flapper more, wouldn't the arm need to move further? Longer doesn't do you any good with the same location, because then it may not shut all the way. The VF-46 on my bench needs to extend the arm to open the flapper, I'm not seeing how shorter would be better. (Maybe it's been a long day and I'm not firing on all cylinders...)

I would be concerned with binding with another hole that close to the pivot point.

I've found that the estimated MPG usually moves in .3 increments.

Little range time. Loving the CGW barrel bushing on my P-01. 10rds, <1 sec between rounds, left handed (I'm ambidextrous) at 7 yards. No complaints, any issues are the shooter's fault; I still haven't lived up the gun's potential.

Step 1: Understand Maryland's gun laws. After that, it was me, I would pick up a CZ 75 or Compact/P-01 and a Kadet Kit (Assuming MD will allow it). That way you get an excellent platform with the ability to train on .22 and still shot 9mm with the same frame when it's time. If that isn't an option, Penquin has a really good point on the .357 revolver and I would second it. Learn the basics on a solid platform, then explore. Get a class, rent a couple from the range, practice, have fun.

Here is my '05 LGT with 160k miles on her. Prodrive P1 w/ Michelin AS3 235/45R17 JDM Bilstein struts/shocks/springs with 1 1/8" rear spacers Invidia up/catted down pipes HKS Silent Hi-Power axleback TA Stage 2 tune JDM Taillights and rear hatch garnish Bunch of other little stuff.

This works fine for my Nexus 7 2013 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSBVNCM/

Come to TN I'm about to renew my carry permit to a lifetime permit for $200. Plus, the state passed a law earlier this year that if a business posts a "no firearms" sign and something happens to the carry holder who wasn't allowed to carry, the business is liable.

I haven't shot a P-09 yet, but had a P-07 for a long while. The P-01 is my favorite and EDC though, rotated with the RAMI from time to time.