05LGT25

I appreciate all of your help. This puzzle is starting to make sense. I just need to find the missing pieces. Funny thing is, since I started this thread Thursday, I started the car about 10 times this weekend. Started up normally, no issues, every time. Then just today, two starts were crazy long crank again. So random. I'm seriously hoping if it's something stupid like a crank sensor, bad ground, etc, I'll find it and can just drive the car the way it is. I love the power. I still definitely want to get it into a tuner to make sure it's done safely or at least install an A/F sensor just to make sure I'm not leaning out.

As far as the injectors, even if I removed them, would I be able to find a part number on them to know for sure what size they are? I agree with you in regards to the HP. I did about every mod under the sun on my last Subaru including a larger turbo (not a rotated turbo setup) and this car puts me back in the seat way more. I was quite surprised when I test drove it because I expected less. If this car was modded safely and properly and I just have a couple of driveability bugs to work out, then I'm thrilled to have it. If I end up taking this into a tuner, would the shop have that Tactrix cord? Or would I buy the tune kit and take it in with me? I'm new to the tune stuff. My last one used EcuTune and the shop did everything for me (this was 15 years ago or so). Here's the cord that was in the car (draped around the steering column under the dash trim) :

It has a COBB cable but no controller. The guy I bought it from said it was like that when he got it. He has owned and modified several Subarus and he said he thinks it had COBB at one point but was re-tuned by opensource. I forget why he said he thought that but I remember him telling me that. He only had it for about six months and had too many projects going on and never did anything to it. He just sold it because he didn't have time. The rectangular casting block is there on the turbo but nothing stamped on it.

Thanks for the reply. That all makes sense. Fuel pressure test is my next step. If that's good, I'll likely take it to a tuner to give it a thorough checkout and go from there. Also, just looking around online at oem turbos (hoping to match up my serial number markings), the OEM ones all have a flange at the compressor outlet. Mine does not. I'm thinking this is not a stock turbo.

I appreciate you guys taking the time to reply. Dyno sheet doesn't appear to show boost. I also have no boost gauge, it only has a MAC solenoid plumbed in. I have no idea on the turbo. The guy I bought it from had own several Subarus and said turbo was stock. The only markings I can find on it is one spot on the front of the compressor housing that is stamped 21501 . Is there any way to tell if injectors are factory without removing them? I've attached some pictures of the turbo, injectors, and dyno sheet.

I think so. Fuel rails, etc all look OEM. Injector tops that are visible are yellow and don't look recently replaced.

Like the title says, I have an intermittent long crank. I'm talking like 10 seconds of cranking. Seems to happen more after sitting for awhile. Sometimes it starts fine though. But when the long crank occurs, as soon as I put my foot on the throttle while still cranking, starts right up and runs fine. Every single time it acts up, foot on the accelerator starts it right away. My first assumption was rich condition or fuel injector leaking into the cylinder, so the extra air is correcting the mixture. But from what I've read online, the throttle body is electronic with no cable. So does the foot on the accelerator pedal even open the throttle when engine isn't running? I've only had this car about two weeks. It's my third Subaru but it's been about 15 years since my last one. Car has been modified. Has full 3 inch exhaust, intake, FMIC, TGV deletes, and probably more I don't know about. Dyno sheet was 370hp so I assume it's got some kind of tune. I was told turbo is OEM. Has a new battery and runs great otherwise. I'm a mechanic. My first step is going to be fuel pressure testing and bleed off, but I figured before I start diaging this thing, I was hoping there may be something common that people here on the forum may recommend looking at first. I looked around online and couldn't find much. Thank you ahead of time for any help or suggestions.

I just picked up a 2005 LGT this week and it's had a ton of stuff done on it. It runs great. The previous owner said when he would shift into neutral (like coming to a stop) that it would die on him intermittently. I have not experienced that once yet. However, I do notice that there is a rough/low idle from time to time when in neutral coming to a stop. And a few times, the engine cranks very long before starting and I have to push the accelerator down to get it to start (almost like what you had to do with older carbureted cars). Seems like as soon as I hit the accelerator while cranking, it starts right up with the issue occurs. So yesterday, engine light came on. P0171. O2 sensor looks newer and wiring is good. I searched this forum and found that vacuum leaks are very common and luckily found a disconnected line at the infamous blue tee. I repaired it but haven't had a chance to drive it yet. However, I also found two other ports on the throttle body with no hoses connected, but before I jump to conclusions, are these just coolant ports that have been disconnected/bypassed? I've owned a couple of other Subarus that had coolant going through the throttle body. Pictures below. Thank you for your time.