TainoPapiChulo

Hey guys, update time. I cleaned my rear wheel bearing magnetic ring. It was a pain because I couldn’t get my axles off without removing a bunch of other things, I got enough clearance to get a shop towel soaked in brake cleaner in between the axle ring and spun the wheel. Took a couple rags but it got clean. Must’ve got some anti-seize on the ring while installing them. Still have misfire issues. Car starts and shuts right off. Did some research and started with the first part, the MAF sensor, I unplugged it and car ran very rough, but no misfires. Plugged her back in and shut off immediately. So I will be cleaning it. I though I had been cleaning it, but I was just cleaning the IAT sensor the whole time . I’ll keep y’all updated.

I replaced all the wheel bearings. Might’ve damaged the knuckles. Used a whole canister of oxy/acetylene and a big sludge hammer to get them out.

Guys, so after I replaced all the grounds disconnected the body integrated unit and engine control module. My car starts and immediately shuts off. I am getting misfire codes for all cylinders. I had my buddy help me, because I started seeing some light smoke and a gas smell and wanted to see where it was coming from. He started to push the gas pedal in the car and she started to idle as before, but still very rough. I just watched a YouTube video on how to diagnose can communication issues using the OBD port. I measured battery voltage on ground ports 4,5 and positive port 16 and was within spec. I measured 59 ohms between port 6 and port 14 for can communication which is within spec. I also measured my can communication voltage, my high side at ground ports 4,5 and positive 6 was 2.6 volts. My can communication on low side (ground port 4,5 and positive port 14) was 2.4 volts. Everything was within spec. I am also dropping battery voltage when I try to start my car. When my buddy got the car running, very roughly as before, I checked my battery voltage with alternator running and got 14 volts. My question now is where should I go from here? I am at a total loss and it’s getting depressing at this point. All I did was clean my grounds and upgrade detachable grounds with better wire. I also cleaned that rats nest that the previous owner left for me and spent the day re–soldering all the wires being careful to connect the right wires. Please help.

Hey Guys, I recently upgraded all my grounds. New transmission ground, battery ground, and engine straps with Ancor Marine grade 10 AWG Zinc Coated Pure Copper wire. I re-cleaned all ground points and found 3 more that I didn’t notice before, I also used pure copper washers for all the ground points. I plan on adding some new grounds (alternator, engine, and battery) but want to check how she runs before hand. I also pulled my ECU and BIU, no burnt smell and they look clean inside. Sprayed electrical cleaner on pins and harness, while they were pulled apart. I can’t help but come to the conclusion that it is my remote start causing problems. I want to remove it all together and get rid of that rats nest once and for all. Especially since I lost the remote years ago. My issue is that I can’t seem to find a wiring diagram for the BIU, I found the model of the remote start (VIPER 5906V) and I’m sure their wires don’t match up with factory. I believe the issue is the BIU bypass that is installed with the remote start, (Directed Electronics 556U Universal Bypass), it may have fried and is causing all these CAN communications. I will post the wiring diagrams for both of these. Thank you guys for the help. Directed Electronics 556U Universal Bypass Wiring Diagram.pdf Viper 5906V Remote Start Wiring Diagram.pdf

Yeah I want to take care of it, but need an oem cable wiring system. I believe it’s for the remote start. I pulled the under cover and that mess dropped down. I’m going to trace all the wires connecting to the BIU and ECU. I Just spent 150 and bought some solid copper wire to redo all my grounds and some positive leads.

Hey guys I was going through all the electrical connectors from the ECU and BIU and ran across a bright green connector, and noticed it was unplugged. I ran to the Internet to see what it was, and read that it was a self diagnostic plug. I connected it, and it did what it was supposed, the relays and fans went on and off. I then plugged my OBD scanner and got a P0140 code for my O2 sensors. The question I’m asking is this something that should be replaced or is it because the green connectors were connected? It would make sense for my misfires, and the gas smell I am getting. Please let me know.

This is the mess that dropped when I took the cover plate off.

No signs of a rodent, I have the whole front dash torn apart and have yet to see any signs. Is there any fuses or relays that I could replace? I replaced all the micro blade fuses in both the engine bay and driver compartment. I’ve had electrical issues with the car before, previous owner had remote start, paid 1700 at Subaru of America in Chicago to repair. Grandmother lives in Chicago and left my car there, during the winter, and flew back home to California during college winter break. Asked her to start the car every once and a while and showed her how to use the remote start. One day she called saying she saw smoke coming from steering wheel and car wouldn’t start. They repaired all the wiring and car ran like new again. I’ve since lost the remote and planned on removing the whole unit all together. When I pulled the cover under steering wheel, there are 100s of wires dangling multiple fuses and relays. I didn’t want to mess with it until I got a wiring diagram. I'm assuming Subaru of America ignored this and just fixed the fried wires because there is no way this is how OEM laid out their wires. I really don’t want to go back to a dealership because after viewing this wiring mess I know they just saw some college kid and took advantage of me. 1700 to fix a few wires is absurd. I could only imagine what they would charge me to fix this mess. I’ll send a picture.

I did replace all four wheel bearings and was careful with ABS sensors. I also did an impedance check on them, when troubleshooting and they all had positive readings. I will bleed the power steering pump, and go from there. I want to get her running for winter, Ohio can be tough without awd during the winter. My used Power Steering pump looks far better than my current one, but won’t replace unless needed. I don’t mind forking over the money for new ABS sensors, but it’s getting to the point where I’m just throwing money at it without results.

Yeah, the scar tissue is what is preventing me from bending my finger. Fragile things they are. yes, sadly my legacy is an automatic. So last week while I was working on the car, I had some girl come up to me and she told me she works as a part time mechanic. She immediately noticed that my power steering pump was leaking. I noticed this too, but didn’t think it would throw the codes I’ve been dealing with and was going to fix it later. Today, my new gaskets came in for my power steering pump so I installed them, turned my car over and she is whining horribly at the pump, but no longer leaking. Turn my wheel and it sounds horrible and car bogs down and almost turns off. Ordered a used OEM power steering pump with about 45k miles on it. Didn’t want to go aftermarket because they all suck but can’t afford a 500 brand new OEM, I also ordered new hoses which should come in tomorrow. I hope this fixes my problems.

Thanks unfortunately cut the tendon and it retracted, had to have surgery to have it repaired. Flashing check engine light, after 5 minutes car shuddered and ran fine, turned her off and back on again, she ran fine and she started misfiring after idling for about 3 minutes. ABS light and traction control light are on after replacing the ABS/VDCCM module. At a loss at what to do next. I’m willing to do what it takes but I need guidance.

Hey, I know it has been a while and recently began working on the car again in hopes to get it running by winter. About three months ago I cut about 3/4 of my finger off and had to have surgery, to reattach my tendon and nerve; so I obviously couldn’t work on the car. Before this happened, I bought a new ABS module and installed it. I also bled my brakes after. Cleared codes and no luck. Today I hoped up the courage to work on the car again, battery was completely dead. Took it to autozone to have it recharged, they said battery was kaput. It was an Optima Yellowtop that I bought on January 2021, so I was honestly hoping it was the battery causing these issues after all. Luckily it was still under 3 year warranty so I got a new battery for free. Got home and installed the new battery, still no luck. I’m at a loss at this point and unsure where my next steps should be. So far New brake lines, ABS/VDCCM module, all new fuses, ground wires sanded at point of contact and reconnected, and new battery. I got these codes from my car doing the headlight and odometer trick C0045, C0052. Got these codes from my BlueDriver: BlueDriver 10-25-2023.pdf

I replaced rear wheel bearings and believe they may have popped out when replacing them. I also went through some highway construction, driving too fast and came dow hard about 10 minutes prior to my brake lines popping. Crazy how everything happened all at once. I used a siphon because I wanted to make sure there was still fluid in the differential and it wasn’t completely destroyed. I also don’t own the right size tool to take the differential plug out. I do all my work at my buddy’s house who has every tool you could need, he was a tool dealer, but he lives about 2 hours away and currently not driving the Subaru.

Thank you

Was checking my vacuum lines for a leak and found these hoses without a connection. May someone tell me what this is? I have a 2008 Subaru Legacy 3.0R.