brandon.mol

-Tuning Alliance Etune , Stage 1, tuned for 94 Octane fuel. - GFB Mach 2 BPV - Perrin TMIC Coupler - AEM Dryflow filter - Invidia Q300 CBE 3rd gear pull for tuning purposes...doesn't go to HP peak. On flat, level highway. ~70 degrees @ 13.6 psi ambient temp/pressure. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238693&stc=1&d=1475559471

[emoji23] Bazinga!

Which is exactly why you never need a second set. Garage Queens don't wear out suspension!

I have '14 3.6r springs on my GT with Bilsteins. I NEVER bottom out. It's a good opinion if you want to keep the ground clearance. Plus you avoid excessive rear camber, so it's more balanced than a lowered car without the hassle/cost of rear control arms.

^^^ Better pissed than pissy, aye mate?

Has anyone considered wiring a small rad fan on the bottom side of the top mount? Wire in a thermo coupler and it could be totally automatic and eliminate heat soak.

FWIW, since Subaru has a revised part for the TB hose/coupling that doesn't have/need the stupid fart-gaskets, one could just buy that part from Subaru. Its probably cheaper than the Perrin part and since bursting it isn't an issue, just as good/better since fitment is guaranteed not an issue like some people have with the Perrin part (though that's usually because the T-Bolt clamps they supply are a tiny bit small).

MAF g/s * 1.25 on a well tuned engine is a good estimate of crank BHP. Thats probably what the Ap does anyway, just guessing. That doesn't count the oxygen in oxygenated fuels, which is quite significant and can produce more power than non-oxygenated fuels as long as you have the injector duty cycle to spare. Maybe the Ap figures that out and factors it in- dunno. Might be worth comparing the AP HP number to the MAF g/s * 1.25 number. In my humble opinion, MAF g/s * 1.25 is going to be a better/simpler comparison than acceleration-based estimates since there are so many variables in acceleration-based estimates (tires, aero, head/tail wind, weight estimate accuracy, shifting style, clutch slip, etc...)

Howdy, fellow Albertan.

Actually, I was going to say the farting-gaskets on the intercooler coupler is the stupidest thing. And I was going to put the clutch damper as WORSE than the OEM struts.. I mean they are bad but the clutch damper is even more annoying, in my opinion. Even so.. there is a top 3-5 things that are arguably worse than one another I guess.

That damper is the second stupidest thing about these cars from the factory.

Got a two thumbs up from some random dude on the side of the road after a hike in Jasper national park. He was super stoked considering I just drove past him at like 20mph. Oh well ... That was cool.

They are obviously a bit out of it though if they think the front is fixed. Give the rear some time to settle. Also, check that the perches are the same height in the rear. The Bilsteins actually have changeable ride height in the rear and if they are set different it could be sitting crooked. Your left rear camber is low and right rear is high for oem height. That indicates the car was sitting crooked. Could be a similar situation in the front. I'd make them second check that but since you need to let it settle down anyway and get another alignment, it's not a big deal. Also, you have some cross caster in the front which is probably causing a slight pull to the left on deceleration, and you probably want to dial in about 1 degree of negative camber in the front, both sides for improved handling.

Do you mean "compared to the RCE Blacks"? Paired with the Bils, its much better with '14 OEM springs. The Bils have VERY aggressive compression damping but (IMHO) have insufficient secondary/tertiary rebound damping for the Blacks so small slow compressions are bouncy/harsh because the compression motion is damped heavily but the rebound tosses it back up abruptly. Dips in the highway and wavey concrete freeways were a real beotch with the Blacks + Bils. The '14 springs completely fixed that. I'm willing to bet that Bilsteins would pair MUCH better with eibach springs than the blacks because of the lower initial spring rate. Also, I NEVER scrape or bottom out on anything now. Takes potholes like a CHAMP. That extra inch of travel gives the strut a lot more real-estate to get the job done. Because the bils have such aggressive compression damping, I can toss the car around and it doesn't dive at all - it just gradually rolls in, admittedly more than with the blacks but not a lot and its very linear and controlled... no abrupt diving of the front end. Virtually zero brake dive.

My car corners every bit as well with the '14 springs and Bilsteins as it dit with blacks and Bilsteins. A little more roll but it digs in and the Bils control the motion.

A couple good smacks to the skid plate from the top with a hammer will give you a bit of comfort clearance... I gave my turbo an extra half inch that way after cutting out the spacer at the rear to increase ground clearance, which made things tight in the front.

This had me thinking: if the signal side of your BPV piston is exposed to the pre-throttle-plate intake pressure, which it must be, since said air is flowing out the nipple, then it will never open to do its job since there is no pressure differential across the piston. So that's bad. Mind you, if that's happening, it's probably pissing air out the low pressure side too accounting for your "boost leak". But since that air is being lost to the inlet post MAF, it will won't impact AFR. I assume you have an aftermarket BPV?

No metered air should be flowing out through your BPV nipple. That would indicate to me that your BPV is leaking. That seams odd though...

Reserved

Background This test was recommended to me by Tuning Alliance, but I will add more detail specifically regarding the 5th gen GT as details are fleshed out. Over time, photos and detailed steps, likely leak points, etc. This process tests the entire intake tract from valves to your plug in the inlet. It will detect the presence of any leak big enough to cause boosting issues and leaks smaller that probably don't cause issues to boost or AFR but could cause other issues (like the PCV valve leaking boost pressure into your crankcase and blowing out crank/cam oil seals). Step 1. Pull out the airbox, or whatever you have instead of an airbox if not stock. Remove it completely because you need access to the opening to the inlet pipe. Details, directions, etc. to follow, but if you are diagnosing a boost leak you probably don't need help getting your airbox out. Step 2. Plug the inlet pipe after the MAF (i.e. where your airbox used to be connected). It has to be air-tight but only has to hold 5 - 10 PSI so nothing crazy. You can use anything that is the right diameter along with the OEM or other clamp, like a tin can or maybe a hockey puck? I used a 3-inch plumbing test plug like so, because it fits in and tightens up from the inside, combined with the clamp it makes a nice seal and is easy: Moen 3" Test Plug from Home Depot Step 3. Pull the vaccum line off your BPV/BOV, feed the tube back and up so you can reach it with your mouth to blow in it. Step 4. Blow into the tube. You are looking to make about 5 PSI. Don't have a boost gauge in your cheek? - Time for an upgrade. Seriously though, blow gently until you feel resistance. You shouldn't be able to blow more than one deep breath into it. You are basically compressing all the air in your manifold, intercooler, charge pipe, and inlet pipe. If you plug it off with your thumb, hold it for 5 - 10 seconds and it whooshes back, then you are free of boost leaks. If not, then you probably have a leak and it's time to start hunting it down. Aside If it is leaking, I'd advise you to check your PCV valve, since that is highly likely to be leaking if it's been more than 20,000 miles since it was last changed, and it probably has for most people. It's easy to check by pulling the vacuum line off the top, plugging it with something (a pen, your finger, whatever) and blowing into system again. If it can hold air now, then you PCV is to blame - replace it.

Same here. No surge at any preload on the GT, so I set it where it sounds best Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

On old Toyota turbo motors it mattered a lot, iirc. I seem to recall my buddy's '90 poopra benefiting substantially from a BOV in that regard.

No. Our oem unit is a manifold referenced bpv, and not one of those old fashioned pop off valves that would dump all boost relative to atmosphere. Same thing. The difference is that aftermarket units can hold much much much higher boost levels without leaking or failing entirely. Also they make fun sounds.

Queue whitetiger dollar-store coil over rant ... [emoji13] Informative, hilarious, humbling, and condescending all at once. And I love every ounce of it