brandon.mol

Wow yeah they went up in price. All the more reason to go with konis, but not with swifts. For that price you would be better off selling the swifts, buying konis and some other springs. Or just buy the koni plus h&r kit from tire rack and some lift spacers to adjust the height as required. No way are the bils worth a grand. Thats nuts...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239055

Ooooo... Check this out. Looks like a good top hat replacement that adds some castor or camber. http://get-primitive.com/alignment-solutions/346-pitch-stop-spt.html#/year_model_range-90_04_leg_outback_93

Primitive Racing makes a similar product, but with more size options, and kit combos. http://get-primitive.com/spacers/262-lift-spacers.html#/lift_spacer_combo_se-pair_of_1_2_front_an/front_lift_spacer_s-pick_your_size/rear_lift_spacer_s-pick_your_size

Respectfully disagreed Since I am running the 200lb subie springs with Bilsteins and they work night and day better than the Blacks, I would think swifts would work lovily, based on spring rates. The Bils have insufficient rebound dampening for the Blacks, and seem to be just right with 200lb springs. Definitely not over dampened on the rebound side. With the Blacks they would drop hard into potholes and buck up violently after compression on bumps, especially the rear. With lighter springs they behave nicely. You are just spoiled with your virtually infinite pool of adjustable rebound damping goodness!

For the front, I have the Whiteline one. Construction and material quality are great and its very solid. Also adjustable length for easy fitment ... However the brackets didn't sit flush without modification, so you may be better off with something else. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/3709787dd3420ba73d7789d35dfa9ab6.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/de745c852602065fb4e07c52985b699c.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/e6c7e03b5a04c4c2124bd86bd9957580.jpg This last one shows where I had to cut off the aluminum tab and file off some of the under side.

I firmly believe in quantitative objectivity - but when it comes to suspension systems, how might one measure such a thing in an objective way... Any suspension characteristic? What about "harshness" or road holding or other subjective feely things? The reality is that it doesn't matter what the numbers are, it ONLY matters what it FEELS like, because that's what we do it for - a feeling of satisfaction. The answer is yes, though, I could, but I won't because the equipment to test it would cost far more than the strut bar itself. Using a fixed mount high speed camera, strain gauges, and accelerometers, a person could record the movement of the hood and correlate that with suspension impacts and body deformations. Is it worth it? Of course not. Here is a simple experiment. Jack up the front of your car by the center front jack point. Measure the distance between the strut tower bolts side to side. Put weight on it again and repeat... I did that and it moved several mm. That means there is flex and that means bracing could be benificial. Prove me wrong.... With science

I didn't know it would drain through the master or I would have sucked it out with my vacuum pump. Hopefully this will help others avoid the same mistake. Now I am unlearning my throttle blip part way through clutch engagement habit which was to preload the drive train and smoothen clutch engagement. Now its just a useless weird thing to do. Its like getting comfy with a whole new car, but a better one at that.

Tip #1: Don't get flex-head flare nut wrenches. They keep flopping over on you and its a pain in the ass. Rigid ones == better. Tip #2: Put some duck tape over the sound deadening material behind the master cylinder, as a way to catch the brake fluid dripping from it and down onto something to catch/soak it up. I basically made a little chute that the brake fluid would run down and zero mess as a result. Tip #3: My fluid reservoir completely drained into the cabin. Not sure if there would have been any way to prevent that, so just removing most of the fluid from the reservoir first would be a good idea == less flowing into the cabin when popping the line from the master cylinder. Have lots of fluid on hand. I used about half a quart of DOT-4 fluid during the bleeding process. Tip #4: Use some long zip-ties to strap the clutch peddle in the upward position to guarantee you don't bump it and puke out fluid everywhere.

Yes.. I know.. With a hacksaw blade in it. My point was that it literally took 10 seconds to buzz through the cast aluminum. By the way, any Canadians looking to pick up some flare-nut wrenches, Crappy Tire has a great deal on. ~60% off - $15 for a standard set and $20 for flex-head set of mastercraft wrenches. Those will never break. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?searchByTerm=true&q=flare+nut+wrench

Not when you use THIS kind of hacksaw.... http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/f2bc06359c406545530a82f20f2f4eac.jpg 10 seconds is more like it. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/21/9e1b1ba35cdfc15523fd361629701b2d.jpg

Car: 2012 LGT Limited Deep Indigo Pearl Mileage: 56,000KM (35,000 mi) Age: 33 Job: IT Systems Architect First Subaru, but I tried to buy a 3rd-Gen GT 11 years ago when I was in college but couldn't get financing Current Mods: Cobb AP Stage 1 93 OTS Normal WGDC AEM Drop-In Filter Perrin IC Coupler Perrin Shift Stop Perrin Brass Shifter Bushing Nav-System Lock-out Bypassed SPT Boost Gauge Pillar-mount Scangauge II Modified Rear-view Mirror Hanger to allow the mirror to be moved up higher for better visibility under it Whiteline 22mm Adj. Rear Sway Bar with braces Megan Toe Arms w/ SPT Eccentric Bolt Lock-out kit RCE/GTWorx Bilstein Struts 2014 Legacy 3.6R OEM J10A OEM Springs Rally Armor Flaps Braelin BR04 18x8 +42mm 5x100 with custom 56.10mm centerbore (no hubcentric rings needed) Continental ExtremeContact DWS Tires 225/45ZR18 91Y 540-A-A Subaru window vent visors Trunk brake light flasher Whiteline front strut tower bar Primitive Racing 3/16" Skidplate, modified for extra inch of ground clearance Drone Mobile Remote Starter Invidia Q300 Cat-Back Exhaust Grimspeed CBE donut flange adapter Right-rear wheel apron steel layers welded together in 10 places to eliminate popping noise Front Lip Spoiler Side Skirts Milk-Jug Delete Rotella T6 oil Polk Audio tweeters with cross overs in parallel with OEM tweeters Front camber = -1.5, rear = -1.3 Clutch Damper Delete Next up: Transmission Gear oil swapped for 1-part Motul 300, 3-parts Redline Shockproof Lightweight ...

RCE Blacks up for sale: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ab-rce-black-springs-and-subaru-mud-guards-238648.html

Since installing one, I've noticed that the front end flops/jumps/fumbles/barfs around less on rough roads, bumps, etc. The hood flops around noticeably less. I'm not claiming it helps handling in a highway or track situation, however, just that it has added some rigidity in situations where the car is being cycled through suspension loading.

Off the shelf wrx fronts plus 1/2 inch saggy spacers...problem solved???

What the member was advised was to read the 2 or 3 posts literally right before that answer to exactly the same question. There are a handful of people on this forum that go waaaaayyyyy out of their way to help others, both with info and hands on help, GTeaser being a shining example.

By the way... If I were to lower again, I would either buy Eibachs for the steins or buy Konis for the blacks. I would never in a million years pair the Bilsteins and blacks again. I don't believe for a second that those were designed to be together. The Bilsteins were clearly valved to be an upgrade strut for OEM springs. Super tough...will last forever, but just aren't valved for 240lb springs. I wouldn't hesitate to say that they would work well with '10/'11/'12 springs even. They just don't have enough rebound dampening for the blacks, and they have too much secondary compression damping for a forgiving ride if you have that much spring rate. However. Since you don't have Bilsteins already, my vote is buy Konis and you will surely be happy. Not sure if anyone has that combo, but it sounds like it would be great.

The first post of this thread needs to get updated with all the new information this community has gathered. More info on the Konis, differences between Konis and Bilsteins, ideal spring/strut pairings for various purposes (lowering, ride, cornering, etc), part numbers for toe arms, trailing arms, lower control arms, end links, etc from all the known brands. There are at least 10 brands of rear adjustable toe arms that fit our cars, for example. Whiteline Megan Cusco Gtspec Superpro SPL Spc Hardrace ...more But many of these thing are listed based on other vehicles (08-14 wrx and brz, for example) and its not always clear what will work and what won't. Also things like end link / strut compatibility and end link sway bar compatibility (length/angles)... Would be great to boil it all down. I'd be glad to contribute, as I am sure others here would be.

Build date is on the black placard on the drivers door will near the bottom of the B pillar. Year and month listed.

Just a quick update regarding the '14 springs with Bilsteins: These springs are a MUCH better match for these struts. The Bilsteins are heavy on compression dampening but didn't have enough rebound dampening for the Blacks, IMHO. These springs allow the struts to soak up bumps better, and don't toss the ass of the car up in the air over humps in the road. It corners just as well, with only slightly more dive in the front, barely noticeable. The psycho front-back teeter toter thing it did with blacks over wavy road surfaces is gone. Its still much firmer than stock, but more controlled and less harsh. I am happy with how its riding now, and based on this experience I would recommend either these springs or Eibachs to be matched with the Bilsteins and save the Blacks for Konis which, by the sounds of it have less compression and more rebound dampening, as it should be, especially since the adjusters are for rebound.

A propane powered UPS truck just ripped a J turn outside my house because he made a wrong turn. Impressive... #TannerFoustWannaBe

When I was in for an alignment today, the tech told me he thought my Megan toe arms were really tough looking, and I quote "unlike those China junk". I decided its best to let him think Megan's aren't from China.

Orange is the new black... Don't ya know?

Really? There are a lot of folks interested in a turbo crosstek. The lack of power is a major issue for me and this makes that a new option.

Was at the hospital for a gastroscopy today... Winding down off these sedatives. Can barely see straight!