brandon.mol

I have, yes. What I found was that steering wheel angle matters a lot. Not only does I severely impact total toe but camber also. Overall it was very close. Also, it's important to have the car close to level with very little twist in the chassis. Using thin plywood to shim up wheels to get it planar helps a lot. Accuracy could be improved by using a laser level that has two beams to the sides as well that could be used to align the laser at fixed 90 degrees using alignment marks on the walls. Have you looked at the latest version of my alignment calculator spreadsheet? The main problem with the process is how long it takes and how careful you have to be to not introduce blunders. It's certainly good for roughing it in. For just camber the digital level is splendid.

They are in fact the same... If you get pillow ball bearings in the Hardrace. Hardrace also offers them with hardened rubber, which is a better choice. Same goes for the toe arms and trailing arms. My understanding, from the research I did, is that they are made by Hardrace, or whomever makes them for Hardrace, and Megan resells. There are several other cheap brands painted red that are also identical except the bearing.

Well it's not under warranty, I assume, so why would you not have to pay?

I'd have thought there were no 5th Gen's with clutch dampers left...

On stock springs/struts, its also possible the car is sitting crooked/lop-sided causing the cross-camber. Check the ride height. Also, its super super easy to check your camber with one of these: [ame=http://www.amazon.ca/Digi-Pas-DWL-80E-Pocket-Digital-Electronic/dp/B001NPJGL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452066840&sr=1-2]Digi-Pas DWL-80E Mini Pocket Size Digital Level Electronic Angle Gauge, Black, Levels - Amazon Canada[/ame] Accurate to 0.1 degrees. Very handy. You can just sit it on the car on a horizontal surface (like a strut-tower bar or the trunk lid in the middle), zero it, and the read your wheel camber directly. Anyone who cares about their camber should get one.

How bout steering lockdown. Stop this nonsense and lock down that rubber blob already.

Well said.

Fun fact regarding replacing the stock BPV: It used to be that in the winter time, when colder than about -10C, I couldn't reach more than about 13 psi even at 93-octane stage 1. With the Mach2.. no problem. Its target boost at part throttle, easy. Also, the BPV seems to get louder as the temps drop, for whatever reason. Good shit.

This was like one of those movies that was building the storyline forever and then all of a sudden the budget was cut and it came to a quick end, despite a happy one, without much ado.

We don't f around. We go flat out 100 powah all the time.

I still think the problem is a busted differential that's pissing power away. The car is moving purely because of the VC. 11 seconds to 60 is like 160 horse territory and there is no way you are making full boost, proper afrs, proper maf, map, and not actually making the power. Except maybe charge temp. The only thing that makes sense to me is that power is getting lost after the motor. Did you check to make sure there was expected torque transfer sides to side at each axle and front to back? One other thing. What if your air charge temperature s are crazy high for some reason. Your car would make way less power but not report it anywhere since the iat sensor is in the maf. Boost would be fine. Afrs fine since less fuel required, but I would think your fuel trims would go seriously negative.

Factory boost is 8 or 12 psi depending on what gear you are in. So its not terribly leaky on the stock tune. Stage 1 and its utterly junk. Lower wgdc means the wastegate is closed less, I.e open more ie you turbo is more efficient and generating less heat and will carry boost to higher revs. If your bpv is leaking then it would require a much higher wgdc to maintain the same boost pressure. If you had a terribly leaky BPV, and a custom tune that compensated for it with increased wgdc target, Then yes, fixing tthe valve may make you overboost. Cobb OTS stage 1 maps have no such problem.

Maybe you have an inner ear infection and cant feel acceleration anymore. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

You do not need a tune with a BPV if you are running a Cobb OTS map. It even says so in the map notes. Why would you? It's closed under throttle anyway. If you are over boosting its because something is wrong, and its not a properly sealed BPV. The stock one pukes boost. Replacing it means you run lower wastegate duty cycles to achieve the same boost. If you have some other issue causing over boost, then a leaking OEM BPV would mask it. As far as I am concerned, a BPV is required for proper stage 1 Tuning, OTS or not. Also, a lot of people don't realize your boost targets on the Cobb maps are relative to atmospheric pressure at sea level, which boost gauges don't measure, unless you are of course at sea level. For example, atmospheric pressure where I live is typically 13.4 to 13.6 psi, so I expect to see 18.5 psi on my gauge rather than 17.5 Plus there is always the low wastegate duty cycle maps if needed.

^^^LOL There is a TSB for a seized TGV actuator. Not sure if that's your problem. SB.02.02.13 Introduction If coming across a seized actuator for the right hand side Tumble Generator Valve (TGV), a revised actuator with an updated part number is now available. A rubber cap has been added to block the air passage from any water intrusion, which could lead to corrosion and seizing of the actuator. Please note, only the right-hand side TGV actuator is affected. Applicability The actuator (new PN 14120AA051) cannot be disassembled on the following models and would require replacement of the intake manifold. Please refer to Parts Catalogue for updated part numbers.  2007-2012MY Legacy GT (incl. 2007 – 2009MYOutback)  2008-2012 Impreza WRX  2007-2012 STI  2009 – 2012 Forester XT Warranty/ Claim Information For vehicles within the Major Components Limited Warranty period, refer to Subaru Warranty Wizard for claim submission information.

Have you dialed the preload spring all the way in (stiff) ? I found it was loudest at about 1 full turn out from full pre-load. No compressor surge even at full preload so I went with loudest

^^^ How so? The GFB mach 2 is much cheaper.

Id say if you put the car up on jackstands then turn various wheel combinations by hand you should feel any problems. For example. Car in gear, you should be able to turn each of the rear wheels by hand and the opposite will spin the other way. The same in the front. Now if you get someone to help you turn wheels in pairs both rears, both front, both front with the park brake applied, all of the above both in gear and out of gear. In g rear with the park brake applied, you won' be able to turn both fronts in the same direction. If something isn't right it should become obvious. Binding would make it very hard to turn, and breakages or disconnections will lead to a lack of torque transfer across the diff. Front and rear diffs are open, center is viscous coupling LSD.

If it was slipping due to a severed torque path, yes, likely. If something was binding then no. It might not be so obvious though because if its really linear you may not be able to tell. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

If you didn't touch your toe arms, then you could set them at the same length as your OEM lcas and then your toe would be close. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

The ECU wouldn't have a clue. The wheel is still on the ground and turning the proper speed. The ECU doesn't do anything about the relative wheel speed compared to the output shaft speed, only relative to each other. If this is in fact the case, then your speedo would be off compared to actual vehicle speed. Edit, or maybe not. Depends on whether the speedo sending unit is on the front or rear output shaft or mechanically before the center diff.

Exactly. Say.. in theory if you removed one of your axles. That non-existent axel would receive all the power on that differential, however your VC would be working overtime to try and put half of it to the other end of the car. You would probably lose about 60+ percent of the "go" and bake the shite out of the VC fluid. It would be like riding the clutch but without the smell. Obviously you are not missing an axle, but something internally broken or slipping in the center diff.. dunno.. just theorizing. Maybe someone with experience breaking a half-shaft would know better what that feels like. Maybe the VC LSD wouldn't hold that well.. I have no idea. Regarding wheel sensors - I bring that up because it would only affect you on acceleration if the traction control was kicking in especially just modestly, since that is throttle modulated in combination with braking. These are my theories down the logic stream of "It's not the engine, it's something after the engine".

What about a binding or otherwise faulty Viscous Coupling. If that's even possible. Or what about a bad ABS wheel sensor making your stability control intervene during normal acceleration. Try turning off stability and traction control and or unplug wheel speed sensors.

If the sensors were taken off and put back on wrong they can be off. They are, from what I have read very sensitive to that kind of thing. I have no first hand experience, just something I read. You could try seeing if you can manually open them all the way some how... Not sure if its possible. The car will idle like shit, but should have full honey-badger-power at revs. You could always remove the intake manifold and inspect them. Possibly even actuate them with some DC power from a PC power supply. You can get a nice clean 5 volt DC source there.

The GFB mach 2 cannot leak, period, at any pressure unless it literally blows apart... Maybe at 400psi. I'm guessing the same is true for all direct actuated piston type BPVs. The actuator piston is larger than the valve piston, sooo... It's physically impossible for it to open itself under boost. The preload spring plays no part in keeping it closed under boost, just under vacuum. Not all BPVs function the same way. On that note, while browsing the factory service manual for clues for Jackals problem, I found a page with testing instructions for the OEM BPV. Guess what? 8 psi is when its supposed to start opening... I honestly feel that a BPV replacement should be standard issue hardware at stage 1 just like a downpipe is stage 2. Also.. As the air temps have dropped, my BPV has gotten a lot louder. Denser air I guess. I can easy hear it in 1st 2nd shift and 2nd 3rd with the windows up. It's ninja-sweet.