brandon.mol

Holy caster, Batman. How low is your car? That's a lot of caster. Must have offset bushings or top hats or something to be getting 6.7 caster...

Bump. [emoji38]

The upcoming Genesis G70 and the Kia Stinger GT V6 turbo remain on my maybe list.

Not applicable on the GT anyway since it's std equipment. That's only for the 2.5slow

I love how you justified buying a new S4 because your Subaru needed repairs That's some weapons-grade self-enabling. Good job!

Use http://www.vmrcanada.com in Canada 20 trade, 22 to 24 private sale... ish.

Ann aftermarket remote starter or alarm system could do that, or at least the first. The BIU doesn't have those functions.

Like a fart that just keeps lingering. Smells worse with time...like a good cheese.

Give me $5, and I'll take it.

If reliability is important, its hard to beat Lexus.

One of these is looking mighty fine to me... If I have to settle for an automatic transmission, that is....

Guys...If there is low pressure in the line, because the pedal is free, then the damper does nothing to the rate that the clutch moves because the master cylinder is not providing any significant resistance to to the fluid flow. The slave cylinder is free to return fluid as fast as it can and as a result, the clutch engages as fast as the slave lets it. This part does not limit the flow rate of the fluid and therefore it does not reduce clutch engagement speed if you side step it. Its irrelevant what is going on with the pedal. All that matters is whether something is slowing down the flow rate in the line on the way out of the slave. The only "useful" thing this part does is mask clutch chatter.

You must not understand my point. I'm quite aware how it works during normal use when the lines are pressurized because you have your foot on the pedal. My point is if you side step the clutch, on purpose or by accident, the pedal is free floating and there is virtually zero pressure in the line and the damper does nothing to reduce their rate of clutch engagement. So I don't know why you keep writing long descriptions of how the part dampens pressure variations. There are no pressure variations when your foot isn't on the pedal. My entire point is that the part does not offer any protection from accidental clutch dropping, say because your foot slips off the pedal. And therefore, its not some kind of safety net against damaging the clutch. And therefore, there is no argument for keeping it on the car and removing it is always a good idea.

In, yes. Dropped , No. It doesn't. It only affects what the pedal does. The clutch pushes out the pedal, not the other way around. The damper is straight pass through and creates no restriction of flow in the line and therefore, if you sidestep the clutch with or without this valve in place, the same thing happens on the clutch side of the hydraulic line. It only affects what the clutch does if your foot is modulating the engagement rate, I.e. normal use.

The damper we are all removing doesn't limit clutch drop speed anyway since there is no flow limiter in it and return pressure comes from the slave cylinder. Therefore, it would add zero protection to clutch dropping. Its meant to just numb the shit out of the pedal feel by increasing the volume of the hard line under pressure. Remove it. Don't look back. Its useless and counterproductive. Clutch last longer without it. Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk

Weird. I would NOT describe that as "awesome" Sent from my ASUS_Z012DC using Tapatalk

I hated the RCE springs. Harsh. Eibach would be a better choice for similar drop or 2014 OEM 3.6r springs and do nothing at all to the rear konis since the 3.6r springs sit about 5mm high in the front anyway.

Called it. However it would have been helpful for them to test with the OEM BPV and the divorced DP.

Camber would matter to. More negative camber will eat up the clearance to the spring perch right?

Im super stoked to find out if my hypothesis is valid that the oem BPV leaks so bad that it keeps overboost in check.

Anything sticky and gluey. Dielectric silicone grease works well or that gnarly red wheel bearing grease. I've got that shit on mine and years in it's going strong through winter salt and sand, etc.

Hyundai will have a midsize sport sedan too, soon, called G70. Mazda will probably do something with the next gen 6 or take this gen out with a bang. Its all in the eyes of the beholder. Why is a Ford Fusion Sport a "sports sedan" but a Legacy 3.6R is not? The Audi A4 Sport, is 252 HP, AWD, Manual trans. It has the S4 suspension, with the A4 motor and manual tranny at A4 prices.

The new Kia Stinger GT looks pretty sweet. Choice of turbo I4 or twin turbo V6, AWD or RWD. http://images.cdn.autocar.co.uk/sites/autocar.co.uk/files/styles/gallery_slide/public/images/car-reviews/first-drives/legacy/kia-stinger-gt-0241.jpg

Mine did this BAD... like I thought the back window blew up. And then for the rest of the drive it creaked and moaned. Once it went back in the garage and defrosted, it stopped. The Mazdaspeed6 I used to have did this bad and (while still under warranty) they took out the rear glass and reseated it with new PU adhesive and it went away. Possibly water trapped inside the PU adhesive somewhere, or air, or internal stress in the PU popping it off the glass somewhere, etc. So if it does it a lot and doesn't go away on its own, then maybe take it to a glass shop and pay to have the rear glass removed and reset.