brandon.mol

Just a thing to consider: the OEM BPV is basically wide open at just 8 psi of boost. That's Subaru's factory boost control! Any aftermarket one substantially reduces the necessary WGDC because it isn't bleeding boost back to the intake. It's an important variable.

I can't believe you haven't posted some VD pr0ns...

More caster is glorious. Do it. More on-center weight and more dynamic camber. The AVO front lower control arm horizontal bushings are a great upgrade and worth doing regards of the issues you face. No downside.

This makes sense for rubber bushings with a fixed steel sleeve that rely on the rubber twisting to enable movement. Any bushings that actually rotate are immune to this issue. For example, if you have oem Rubber sway bar bushings you may need to do this to those. If you have PU bushings with grease, then it's a non issue. I don't know about the various control arm bushings. Are the oem Rubber bushing sleeves clamped in or allowed to rotate?

Right. Rubber...

Don't think so. You greased the shit out of the bushings, right? No chance it's hitting the spare tire tub?

So just get the whiteline bar that comes with the braces and then you will have better handling AND you can sleep at night knowing your rear subframe sway bar bracket mounts are not going to cave in. Plus the bonus of adjustments.... 21, 22, or 23mm effective diameter.

Megan and Hardrace use the same manufacturer for this stuff. The parts are identical, that use pillow ball bearings. There are several other brands out there that are painted other colors that are also identical except the bearings.

You are wayyy over thinking this... [emoji6]

^^^ Well played CYA card...

Agreed. I've never experienced oversteer at all except in snow (at which point it becomes very deliberate) and I am on 2014 OEM springs and have the WL rear bar. Not only does that mean my springs are softer, so more front lean over and therefore more rear opposite lift, but it means I have less negative camber in the rear as well.. So my car should be even more susceptible to oversteer than GTeaser's. In short, MORE REAR BAR! If the extra coin doesn't bother you, the WL bar with its adjustability and accompanying braces is well worth it.

That's probably the old part. It looks like it has the gaskets. The new one has no gaskets and is presumably longer and slightly smaller in diameter. If the price is close, it probably doesn't matter which you get really. This is indeed off topic. I suppose I started it.

Bea ha ha ha. By the way. ZERO benefit in replacing your rear trailing arms since 2012 cars come with pillow ball from the factory. Leave em be. Hardened rubber is more durable and will probably last forever. Particularly a good idea on the lower control arms. I have pillow ball Megan toe arms and they have been no issue however we don't have a lot of salt and I burry them in axle grease. I'd choose poly or hardened rubber parts over pillow ball all day long for a daily driver especially if it sees salt. By the way, Megan parts with pillow ball bearings are identical to Hardrace parts with pillow ball bearings, with a different sticker applied. Same manufacturer. Hardrace offers the hardened rubber variants but their prices are steep compared to Megan, and generally less available. I think the best rear suspension linkage mod you can do is a set of adjustable toe links and an SPL lockout kit to eliminate eccentric bolt movement. After that it's literally impossible for your rear alignment to change unless parts break/bend or bushings take a crap.

This thread has a remarkable lack of VD action.

This. Also, higher gas pressure yields better cavitation/foaming resistance, but more seal stiction. Oil foaming makes damping go to sh!t fast.

Good job. I know, from personal experience that this job was a bit daunting. But getting it done is extremely gratifying both in terms of the result but also the DIY experience. +2 internet points!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161012/ab63e02cd6fb92cfb4430638d036a4f9.jpg

Are you lowered? I assume you have oem rear lower control arms. It looks to me like the rear of the car was sitting cooked with the right lower and the left higher. 0. 3 vs 2.7 camber would be VERY obvious, just eyeballing it. But half way in between, 1.2 either side ...ish...would be pretty standard. I always say, poor to making any decisions about a weird set of alignment results: 1. Make sure you don't have a warped rim. That will totally screw your alignment results. 2. Get a second set of measurements at a second reputable shop.

^^^ When my motor comes out for a clutch, I'm thinking it'll get new head gaskets, ARP studs, timing belt, idler, oil pump, and STI exhaust cams and springs. And maybe new mounts. Is that logical set of things to do? Just brain storming. The tricky part will be stopping there.

Two answers... 1. Those aren't power curves FJuan showed you. 2. We don't. We need 5th gen power curves. Bring it

Now let's get some more VD in this thread... Virtual Dyno, that is.

^^^ There isn't a day that goes by that I'm not in boost during city driving. Heck, I don't make it out of my driveway without boost. In reverse.

Cool. Mike @ TA fixed that issue for me. Not sure what all he did but part of it was just the throttle map. I had noticed right from the start that the throttle map on his tune was way less aggressive than the Cobb one, which was maybe just contributing to my perception relative to my right foot more than anything. So maybe your right foot got used to it. Here is my new chart. Not a lot different, but slightly lower numbers. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=238729&stc=1&d=1475680584

Didn't notice the remark about smoothing before. I'll regenerate. FL... There is a dip in your boost on the graph right where torque would otherwise peak. By the way, to get AFRs on there you go into the options and paste in the air fuel field name from your csv for the custom field name for AFR. Edit: I see now that the line I am referring to is not your final revision. Ignore.

It would appear my numbers are a fair bit higher than yours, and you are stage 2, right? But probably tuned on 91? Your boost drops way down from 3000 to 4000 rpm. That would probably be the issue...