brandon.mol

Sooo.. have you confirmed the TGV is working properly? If the TGV butterflies were stuck partially closed on one or both banks, you would have one hell of an obstruction that would not prevent boost build up but would certainly cause a 60% power loss at higher RPM/flow, easy.

If he's ignorant enough to think that only one BOV doesn't leak, and all others do, then he's too ignorant to tune your car well. That's how I'd see it anyway.

I went with 2013/2014 3.6R springs on my GT with Bilsteins. Front: 20330AJ10A http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2014_Legacy36L-5AT-4WD/COIL-SPRING-FRONT/49229664/20330AJ10A.html Rear: 20380AJ10A http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2014_Legacy36L-5AT-4WD/COIL-SPRING-REAR/49230090/20380AJ10A.html

Yeah. Lots of room and the speedo reads higher by a few percent anyway.

No, not really. Thats weird. I assume you are measuring ground to fender. Was the car on a side slope? It would lean one way if so. Make sure the ground is level (side to side) and give it a few bounced front and rear and measure again. I assume you have ruled out tire pressures. Make sure they are within 0.5 psi side to side. Also I assume your 4 new tires are all the same size, obviously supposed to be, possibly not if a shop was half-retarded. The springs you used.. how new were they when you got them (I see they were used but I don't see a mention of how used). If they were very new and not settled yet, I would think it would be normal for the drivers side to settle faster than the passenger side due to more weight (battery + driver) and also because of on/exit ramp cornering. When I got new springs the same thing happened to me for a while, and eventually it evened out.

Also.. these might be useful?? http://get-primitive.com/alignment-solutions/340-team-dyn-15x7-5x100-matte-blk.html They aren't meant for this particular application, but they may work if they will bolt in where the trailing arm bolts to the chassis. The guys at primitive racing are very experienced when it comes to lifting Subarus.

I have AVO front control arm bushings for sale.. I used one of the castor correction ones, so thats no good to you but I have both the front ones if you are looking for those too. I never ended up using them. THey are brand new. Regarding caster, you need more than half a degree. I would go with the caster offset strut mounts from Primitive Racing. They add 0.7 and also a bit of camber I think which you could use by the sounds of it. You could probably use both, since your caster is about 1.5 degrees low. Regarding the trailing arms.. Just eye-balling it, it looks to me like the front trailing arm bolts are similar to the inner toe arm bolts. If so, you could maybe use the eccentric bolts from the toe arms at the trailing arm mount and get some adjustment that way. Just an idea. I assume you are not using them anyway... I have a set here left over since I have the SPL eccentric lockout kit holding my megan toe arms in place. I'll throw them in for free if you buy my Primitive Racing rear diff skidplate and/or my front control arm bushings! If not... then you could always get the OEM trailing arms modified by welding some plate steel to the ends with new holes.

Yeah. But I don't really understand why he needs to change the trailing arm at all. I don't see the benefit.

Its the trailing arm he had issues with, not the toe-arm or lower control arm.

^^^This. It's sitting in my garage ready to be shipped out [emoji6]

Like so: http://content.screencast.com/users/Brandon.Mol/folders/Snagit/media/d7a2a2b1-c1b5-48d9-9df4-9341fef45cef/08.17.2015-08.50.28.png

I think a big part of why it doesn't quite look right is the bumper covers. the bottoms of them are "pointing" too high on the wheel now. Outback bumpers would probably correct this no doubt, but I think the easiest thing would be to modify the current bumper covers by cutting a slit in them, say 3-4 inches from the bottom back from the wheel arches almost to the front, bending it down a few inches, fixing it in place with a piece of aluminum and some epoxy then fibre- glassing in the gap and finishing. Not sure if that makes sense. Basically get the bottom/rear of the front bumper cover to be pointing down, and lowered an inch, leaving the front where it is. So its sloped down more. Just a thought. Or just attach something to the bottom of it to give the same visual effect.

Well.. I sure put a damper on that discussion....

Wouldn't limited slip in the front actually cause the front to break free easier than the rear, making understeer under power worse?

Agreed. But is there any way to increase front grip in winter beyond high quality dampers, a bit of negative camber (-1 to -1.4) in the front, great tires, optimized tire pressures, and the odd Scandinavian flick? Because frick do I hate winter understeer

Something I would like to add to this conversation is that in lower traction scenarios, less lateral grip can be achieved, far less suspension loading occurs when cornering, and when combined with uneven surfaces, softer suspension is required to keeps the wheels on the ground at all. So, from a "spirited crappy-street driving" perspective, a stiffer rear sway bar helps neutralize the car, even if it is at the expense of rear grip. Rear grip isn't worth much if you understeer right through a turn. Here is an example to illustrate what I mean: I have never pushed my car to the limit on dry asphalt. I simply do not know what/where that limit is: I speak not about that. However, on a snowy/icy road in the winter, I drive near the limit all the time and regularly tempt/push that limit to find out where it is. In fact, I make a point of it as part of safe winter driving to know what the limit is, so I can adjust my driving accordingly. In my city they simply don't plow the roads half the time, and in some places, never, and I mean that seriously. As a result, understeer can be very scarey.. just snow-plowing tangentially through a corner (literally and figuratively) straight towards a curb, pole, or worse is terrifying (My Rav4 is brutal for that). A stiffer rear bar has corrected that by helping the back to come around in a mild and controlled way, which gets me through the corner, and much much faster than if I had to slow down enough to avoid the understeer. And we may be talking about speeds of 20 - 40 MPH. Now, with that said, I fully recognize that the better way to address that would be to swap my rear diff for a 1.5 LSD unit, then RSB be damned it would come around on demand no matter what using my right foot. And when we are talking about winter-land, I have what one would call "excellent performance tires", and I buy nothing short of the best. So in this case, I am showcasing how tire capability is already maxed out, and changes to bars helps neutralize things. My point is, there are always trade-offs. The key is knowing what those are and adjusting your setup to meet your handling desires (and budget) as best you can for the surface conditions you face. I have no problem sacrificing limit grip in ideal conditions in favour of drastic improvements in poor conditions, but that's because 50% of the year the roads would qualify as "poor conditions". I also have no problem dropping whatever it costs for the absolute best winter tires, because ultimately, tires are what holds you to the ground. Whitetiger has provided a lot of great information here that I find very helpful in evaluating those trade-offs, and frankly has reinforced some of the decisions I have come to on my own setup. My $0.02

http://cdn.meme.li/instances/500x/48506926.jpg

Totally agreed. I've very happy with my Bilstein + '14 springs combo. By the way.. last week I softened my whiteline rear bar up from 23mm setting to the 21mm setting and it's made the ride a LOT better. I have no idea what impact it's had at the limits but I don't care really, except winter time when I appreciate easy drifting. It was skipping around a bit in the back on uneven pavement while cornering and that fixed it. Slightly more roll in hard corners but my city is a tic-tac-toe grid so who gives a rat's shyster.

I assume there is a vacuum line running to the fuel tank for fuel evap recovery. Could be your boost leak if its popped off somewhere.

On my 2012 GT, I dont consume a drop of oil if I run Subaru Synth, Penzoil Platinum 5w30, or Belgian Castrol 0w40 a3b4. However, running Shell Rotella T6 0w40 I consumed a whole quart in 3000 mi. Switcched back to Belgian Castrol, not a drop. Moral: it matters what oil you use. I dont know why, in this case as those are all excellent oils. Driving style: like I stole it

I think Ground-Control makes complete coil-overs for Subie platforms that have koni inserts in them for shocks. For information purposes only. I have no opinion about it.

I found this article very informative. Thanks for sharing this. This is definitely helpful info for our Koni-clad brethren:

Yeah.. the Bilsteins are just ridiculous at $1000. Konis are the way to go. I have Bils, and they are fine, but I paid 700, before the price went up like crazy. The question is springs. Our roads are bad here and I needed the ground clearance (too many times have I had to drive over a 3 - 4" raised manhole in the road and cringed that I wouldn't tear off my exhaust...or worse). Swapping out the Blacks for 2014 Springs was a great move and its worked out awesome. They are notably stiffer than the OEM springs but maintain ride height. Blacks and Eibachs will sit about the same height once settled, with Eibachs being softer, probably about the same as 2014 Springs, just an inch lower. RCE Blacks are about the same amount stiffer again, same drop as the eibachs, once settled. Other springs drop further by 1/4 to half an inch and are everywhere in between, stiffness-wise. The only "wrong" decision, would be Swift springs, since they don't pair well with the konis unless you get lift spacers, which drives up the cost. Decide whether you want your suspension to be stiffer or not, how much to lower, choose koni inserts, and done. Remember that "stiffer" does NOT mean "handles better" if your roads are really rough or uneven, the opposite in fact. In my case the car would hop and skip all over the place while cornering on rough roads and it actually slowed me down AND was uncomfortable. Others with lovely roads have no such issues and thoroughly enjoy the stiffer springs and the benefits that come with that. For example, driving on a washboard dirt road with RCE Blacks and Bilsteins was like getting punched in the head 5 times a second - BRUTAL. I have no idea what the konis would be like in that case, I can only speculate: Probably better, at least adjustable.

Ftfy [emoji6] Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

If you want to maintain ground clearance, swap your springs for 2014 Legacy springs (which are a lot firmer feeling), and get some Koni inserts. I'm running 2014 springs and Bilsteins and happy with it, but the Bilsteins are harsher than the konis, more expensive (currently) and not adjustable. Ground clearance was important to me too, so I swapped out my RCE black springs for the 2014 springs and don't regret it for a minute. They ride much better and it corners just as well in the driving I do.