brandon.mol

"Some" ? Bunk. Its fine. Haul that junk out of there and throw it in the bin!

If you do the seat bottom first then you can unhook it while working under the cushion. At a very minimum, you can see how its attached.

Soo... Does anyone here have any experience with a Lexus GS350 AWD ?

Yeah I had those two. You can pop them off the wire where they meet, kind of like a key ring.

Oh.. And I took a chunk out of my hand working in there. The edge of the steel framing in the back is like a razor blade.It made a discussing sounding sound when cutting me. Bled like hell but not too deep. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161223/07e790a367f2ec76897ee2bf78ab25d7.jpg So...be careful in there.

Sweet. Yeah I did mine last night. Used 1 inch thick mattress topper memory foam material and did the back and bottom bolsters as well as a strip across the back of the bottom of the seat. Much better than before. Disconnecting those mid back clips makes a big difference. My seat feels so much more comfortable now. Regarding bottom seat bolstering, I think the way to go there would be yo buy some steel sheet metal and and pop rivot gun and drill/rivot a taller bolster over the existing one maybe 1 inch would make a big difference. Or perhaps just self tapping screws. I also got ambitious and peeled the leather half off my arm rest cover, stuffed a piece of that floor mat/yoga-mat-like material in there and pulled the leather back over and glued it, and reinstalled. Looks the same and feels a million bucks better! On my seat back cushion, there is a hard plastic thing in the bottom left. Its black in color and has something stamped in it. LH for left hand I think. What is that? It digs in to my hip with the new padding So I had to remove some padding there behind that spot.

Mazdaspeed6, fwd based system with LSDs front and rear and defaulting to 50/50 f/r. Fantastic in snow. Subaru, viscous center diff system. Fantastic in snow, but not quite as good as the Mazda. Infiniti G35x, RWD based system. Terrible in snow. As soon as you have wheel slip, the ecu cuts all throttle. Its maddening. What RWD AWD platforms do you have opposite experience with?

Worth mentioning, in follow up to the above that there is no camber gain on MacPherson strut suspension. There is actually camber loss as the strut tower leans outward.

Rear wheel drive based AWD systems are junk in snow. As soon as you have wheel slip the traction control cuts throttle since that's the only option. The you sit there dead in the road like that time at the go-kart track when the guy disabled your kart for ramming into too many people. A center diff or FWD based AWD system will run circles round RWD based AWD in the snow/on-ice. I've owned all three. The Infiniti systems are terrible in that regard. Anyone know what Lexus IS/GS does? Do they have a transfer case with part time front like the G35/37X ?

Just ordered a memory foam mattress topper to use instead. Ohhhh yeah this is gunna be great. Carpenter Memory Foam Mattress Topper, Extra-Long https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003LVY4H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3lbwyb23773TY

...by anyone but FJuan. Great writeup Blk. With disconnecting the top/side hooks, the support can slide up and come loose. You should secure it down somehow. I used two rubber bungee cords, LOL. I'm totally doing this. My right side bolster pad is worn right out. Regarding the bottom, forget that shit I did with pipe. I did end up using a polyurethane foam mat material that is the same as a yoga mat but a half inch thick. Anyway, same concept as this - you are stuffing between the frame and the bottom of the cushion. The bottom is easy. The side plastic cover comes off, then you unhook the two clips on each side and the whole front clip and the cushion lifts up. The seat belt bolt prevents you from removing it entirely, but that's OK. I had it completely apart once, frame out and all but that's not necessary here.

Its well documented. There is a TSB for it. They refer to it as the right rear apron. In summary, there are is several layers of steel and one of them pops like a bottle cap against another when the car is twisted certain ways. The Subaru solution is a fix that doesn't work right but if you get the body layers welded together instead, the problem is solved. I wrote extensively on the subject if you look it up.

I asked about the rear since there is the rear apron body pop known issue with a tsb, but is fixed properly with a drill and a welder rather than their bullshit fix. I said ball joint before, but sorry, I meant to swap back the OE tie rod ends.

There is no way that its the springs causing that. Swap the stick ball joints back in. As far as the pop. Are you sure its not coming from the right rear?

Certainly. Because you will get terrible NVH with no tangible benefit in handling, rigidity, etc. I have a set, but didn't install them on this advice from others, including a few people on here and a tech at the shop that did them on his WRX and regretted it.

Don't change the front/horizontal bushing. Just the rear/vertical one, whatever you do!

Except they have terrible transmissions and steering and cheap interiors. They are a big step backwards from the G37.

2017 Audi A4 Sport Plus Quattro, 6spd manual... https://www.audiusa.com/newsroom/news/press-releases/2016/09/2017-audi-a4-six-speed-manual-transmission

I was volunteering to buy stuff for him, not pay for it!

You know you want you let us...

Of course. Irrelevant. At WOT that's zero...ish. But the OEM one is designed to open at 8 psi and bleed boost back into the intake post-maf, pre-compressor. That's 8 psi on both sides. Not a difference. This is why everyone buys aftermarket units...to stop that counterproductive, high-rpm power-robbing behavior because their compressors run out of breathe. Logan came to a similar conclusion when testing his and tuning his own car. He posted about it somewhere. Listen, I am just trying to point out the fact that our OEM BPVs don't hold boost at all at even stage 1 levels and would be an important factor to eliminate from testing while at the nameless facility diagnosing this dumpster fire of a situation. If it turns out to not matter, then great. But I'm guessing it matters a lot. In my mind, the testing needs to be performed with an aftermarket BPV that holds boost like GFB, Nameless, or any of the other quality units out there.

Power loss or not, it takes higher WGDC to raise charge pressures to the same level with a wide open BPV. Therefore, with the OEM BPV, which is wide open over 8psi boost, the nameless DP would be less likely to cause boost creep.

False. Putting 1 psi of vacuum on the dump side is the same as putting 1 psi of boost on BOTH the signal and charge ports. I'm not going to hijack this thread though, so if you want to discuss it more maybe PM me or start a new thread.

Easy. You use a vacuum pump on the dump side. Atmospheric on the reference and charge sides.

I bench tested it, and plain and simple it's pissing boost like mad over 8 psi. No tuner can control the BPV. That means that a tuner has to set dramatically higher WGDC to maintain boost, but it also means that over boosting would be much easier to control. I don't know what the differences are, number-wise, in WGDC. It might be worth trying, for those with over boost issues...going back to stock bpv. Not that making your turbo have to work harder is a good solution, but it could be a factor differentiating the folks with problems vs without.