Flinkly

Epic double post. Don't know which one to thank. Also, what's the sprank-tie method?

Plx is good. They've posted their serial output info and have 2 voltage outputs for plugging into an ecu. If you've tgv deleted, can plug the wideband voltage output into the tgv and log thru romraider without anything else, or pick up an ftdi usb cable. The guages are cool but expensive. Can make one (not touchscreen) for like $15.

negatory. need a bunghole and wideband and wideband controller and a way to interface to your logging method. most aftermarket DPs have a bung right at the bellmouth for this use.

Hmm, i have swirls of oil in my compressor housing... Oil getting in thru inlet or turbo seal? Ugh

there's a BIG thread on axles, so wrong place for that, but for the best chances, replace your axles with ~$300 OEM is your best bet. second best is to just reboot if you can, and if you can't, rebuild. worst case you get autozone cardone replacements, but make sure they're the right cup shape and other parts, and i've found there's a 60% chance you'll get the wrong parts.

i'm probably the worst person to ask, but i'd do the non-baseball stitch in red, if there "must" be red stitching, otherwise i'd stick with what you already have (and if you don't, i'll PM you my address for old leather disposal services. and for you, i'll make the service free, and even pay the shipping). But my taste is to get "performance" without screaming it.

Or no/lower tint in the front?

0-5v sensors, and i don't believe you can power it from the tgv connector (would need to look at the vaca pics), but yes.

I'd do TGVs on day one, in case it goes sideways. And fuel pump second on day one, if you've got the time. Header and turbo are great to do together, since it's easier to get the uppipe in/out with the turbo out. Can you just get your base tune right away? just run wastegate boost and low timing, etc.? then i'd do the header and turbo the second day, and maybe the intake/TMIC if you've got the time. EBCS last if you breeze thru all that. Then i'd do the "frilly" stuff a day the following week, since they aren't hard and aren't incredibly important (exhaust, etc.).

so we could still get a fix, but it's gonna be (moar) expensive...

Paint. But yeah, i think it's just rotors. Maybe some shield trimming. I have my 4 new calipers just sitting in the garage still. Need clips, rotors, pads. It adds up.

people sometimes get leaks between the threaded thru hole in the TMIC and the bolt(s) for the BPV. to eliminate this possibility, get studs and RTV those bastards into the threaded holes. done. The issue is caused by AVO/others making these threaded holes go all the way thru the endtank and open to pressurized air on the inside. wants to come out. threaded non-thru holes or studs that are "sealed" in place would have been better. I'd use some RTV on the threads like it's antiseize, then a little around the stud on the inside of the TMIC. easier said than done. i just said FU AVO TMIC, so i've got a nice barely used one to sell sometime. BP OEM TMIC for me for now. and yeah, why "STI" oilpan? i thought all us USDM turbo'd engines had the same pan...

850's should be plenty for E85. but most tuners like the bosch, which are 1000cc+ (i believe?). i'm not a fan of the AVO, but it works. have you blasted/shaken the casting sand out? do you have the mr gasket gasket? you'll want one, or suffer the boost leak consequences. Oh, and get studs to "glue"/RTV in for the BPV. again, 'cause boost leak. also, most of the "cheaper" ELH are all made at the same place (kinugawa, tomei, maddad, etc.), so i'd go with the cheapest, which was Kinugawa last i looked. ELH should make a little more power and will make for a happier motor. or could get barmanbeans swaintech coated Invidia ELH header... How much time on the cars clock? might want a new fuel filter to put in with the new dw65c pump. might as well while you're in there, IMO. i'll think of more advice, give me a sec...

I think I'm thinking of the sti manifold to jdm "tgv" s... Disregard me.

So you just slotted your IM to accept the jdm "TGV"s? I've always wanted to remove the flapper but keep the divider. Provides dedicated, higher velocity flow to the injector. Then again, JDM didn't have them (butterflies and dividers) till recently... Also, sub'd. Not sure how i've missed it this whole time.

Oh, for others interested in more than 2 inputs, get an 08+ gen 4 LGT or gen 3 OBXT. ECU Air pump pressure sensor input FTW. Not that I've attempted it, but I can't imagine that with an air pump delete (KSTech plates are cheap and it's simple to do yourself) that you couldn't hijack the ECU input just like the TGV sensors. hmm...cept I'm not sure there's a romraider logging parameter... *goes off to do more research*

More time than i've had over the same period!

Pic? I actually can't think of any sensors over there...

that looks fantastic. gonna have to fish around for more data on suspension, wheel studs and spacers. need more space on my BBSs, and i think i'll have to have moar low for legit suspension action. kyb probably, and some new springs.

you've got a bloush in place? i was about to ask how your coolant and oil lines were routed, but i can't assume they'd be the same as the VF37/36 with a Garret CHRA... trying to get all my ducks lined up for my VF52/37 install. I also wish i had held out for a header/up setup with the welded-on heatshields over the joint. but alas. Just need to source a bracket and choose a DP (with two bungs, otherwise i'd use an OEM pipe and have an extension made).

you sir, are a parts hoarder. multiple TMICs, spare VF lines from other turbos, random green oil line tubing, etc.... kinda feel like you're the type of person to get stuck in the middle of nowhere, turn out your pockets, and use the bubblegum, wrapper, a few twist ties, and that paperclip you have to fix it.

so does this mean factory pistons might/could last longer with a piston top heat coating like TBC from Swaintech? i've always thought that for a DD, that most coatings are redic, and i still think most are (cause the longer a cold start is, the more wear to the bearings, so combustion chamber and exhaust runner coatings, i believe, are not desired for DD), but this one might be a grand idea. coating the crank and rods for oil repulsion would probably be good too, or piston skirt friction coatings. mostly i'm against protecting the head/block from heat, cause a DD needs that heat to warm up in a reasonable time.

What recalibration did you do because you moved it from the header elbow to dp? I've always assumed i'd move it and that was that.

is there ANY clutch other than stock/OEM that IS easy? or lasts longer than a year/12k? I need a new clutch for planned 350tq territory and have no idea which to get, as they all sound nearly equally terrible... the only good thing with me and my driving is that i'd probably only unleash 350 on my clutch a few times a year.

We should start posting stl's on thingiverse. Maybe start all the part names with lgt.com-xxxxxxx