Flinkly

honestly, you should just get an STI intake manifold to even out the intake flow. their TMIC is free-er flowing too (shorter path; top-to-bottom rather than left-to-right). then maybe E85 for it's added knock resistance, and move back to the WAI. granted, E85 is a step backwards for MPG, but sure gives alot more room for knock resistance and power. can always credit yourself the ~28% difference in power/mpg between premium and E85. Seriously though, always interested in your tinkering. As for MPG between the legacy and outback, the outback never got the underbody aero that the LGT did. Does yours still have the 2 belly pans and front wheel well covers? I also just heard that there is a transmission cover as well, for the area between the undertray and two rear covers (not for USDM market).

you are flowing more freely with elh vs. stock and thus the 2.5" exhaust should be fine, at least in comparison. pulses should be moving single file now. and while not absolute fact, "common knowledge" says stock intake is fine till 350-ish. my bet is overall tune, and AVCS specifically. well, and you are also losing more heat/power from these than before. way more surface area (2 primaries vs "1") and thinner material (vs the ~25% cast oem headers) and no tray. and the slower boost makes sense with the larger volume to fill. can't wait to see more work to fine tune for these. and not to say you don't already know all this, just chatting.

what!?! heatshields should gain mpg on multiple fronts. why remove? or rattling cause rusted out? and any plans to retain heat on these new ones?

until recently, and with no tuning or mods, i can get 26mpg average. meaning i get as high as 28 in the summer and drops to 25 in the winter. i've been stuck at 25 recently, but have had some intake leaks and other issues that i believe are the culprit. 08 obxt 5mt

the last reman axle i got from autozone wasn't ground down along the whole bearing surface. the tip was larger and was a bunch of triangles from the 45 degree grooves. mucked up my sundail when i tried to install it. wish i had pictures. never again will i subject my car to reman axles. and this was after sorting through 3 axles to find one that would even fit my car on either end. all with the same part number.

i fit my $120 bob in the back with my 50lb pup. i like the new bob and green color though.

you guys are funny. We all have such different goals for the same thing. I'll admit, as far as my wallet is concerned, i'm glad i've somehow missed the boat with autox and #FlushLife. I did just install 3mm rear spacers to save further rubbing on liner. @rebourne, what did you get for a spacer? mine weren't quite what i wanted. didn't fit and rough around the edges (figuratively and literally...). And stock studs? how many rotations do you have with your nuts?

If you're selling, i'd put stock parts (pistons or new SB) back in and either put it back to stock tune or have it tuned to stage 0 levels. Sell off mods piecemeal. that'll get you the best overall return but will take more work.

wow, good find and well written walkthrough. i might do this just to do it for a future clutch, and to flush the fluid. and it does look really simple. (famous last words... )

not that you need company, but i feel the same way Rebourne. granted, my clutch holds, but i do have a noisy throwout when it's cold out. for like 2 years now. on borrowed time.

In my opinion, yes [it is a bad thing]. just a matter of time before water or debris gets inside the box and shorts components. might get lucky and the in-line fuse will protect it, or you won't be lucky. they are not at all sealed for dust or water, and none of the connectors are rated for it either (where as the wideband sensor to the sensor extension cable connector is appropriate for the engine bay environment). i have my "boost" sensor module apart at my desk since i fried it on accident, and there's nothing in terms of protection other than a hard shell. the shell doesn't even provide a heat sink as it looks like, at least for this sensor module. i routed my wideband cable through the firewall and have the unit velcro'd to a piece of metal under my dash, behind my cubby. it's hot in there, but won't fail for water or dust issues. i was hoping that was just a picture from checking to make sure it was all working, before you spent the time and effort to route it through the firewall.

you have your PLX sensor module in the engine bay?!?

well, the spec has an assist in MPG from the 6 speed, at least at highway speeds. a somewhat unfair advantage. and while it's not a lot, it does have lighter suspension components.

looks like an underbody part that i've never been able to figure out where it goes. listed with underbody covers.

mmmm.... real meat.

i do wish i could fill the tank with eggshells and banana peels... Maybe in the future. (<- see what i did there?!?)

i think the issue with 'bugeye' triple gauge pod is that they don't fit in width. have to push them beyond the original cubby walls to get them to fit. let alone keeping the original door. it's a tight space. all of this is why i rid myself of gauges (the 52mm size at least) and just put screens in said spot. can fit 6, but only 4 right now. add too many and this'll start to look like some sort of time machine.

just need to anneal it if you want to do it "right". and off the top of my head i think that's only 400F. just leave it in the oven overnight. jk. but can anneal it if you've got a torch. just get it bright red and then plunge it in some cold water.

i can't imagine stock tubular headers are anything better than 303/304, and they're insulated and shielded. not to say they never fail, i guess.

ELH is the sweet, sweet sound of efficiency. Also, just to say it aloud, i've always thought about taking home some 3" wide (or so) kapton tape from work and winding over the outside of DEI Ti wrap. the main drawback to wrap is that if/when it gets wet (driving in rain), it becomes a great heat dissipation coating (opposite of what you want; think of standing in wind in wet cotton clothes). Could always do the spray on silicone too, as is recommended sometimes. Or some of that thin sheet metal that you could wrap around the outside of the wrap. Lastly, the best insulation is what the car comes with stock: double walled metal shields with air gap between piping and shield. and the (cancer causing, i'm sure) insulation they use to fill that gap.

just don't wait too long. that little bean that doesn't move now will start moving. and getting into things. and causing general chaos the likes you've never seen. it'll also sleep less and less, and get cuter and cuter. you'll also find that you want to spend your time playing in that cardboard box that is suddenly kept in the living room, rather than on the cold garage floor trying to remove rusted bolts.

so no need to worry about the shipping? also, didn't you win an auction? aren't they contractually bound to give them to you at the price?

i've always wanted to be someone that this site set as the pinnacle of awesomeness and achievement. i just wish it wasn't for being the most neglectful...

you guys and your simpler TGV wiring... Does anyone know where to get the connector for the 07+ TGVs? they have both motor and sensor, so i believe 5 wires.

actually, as Gigs pointed out (and i never noticed), several companies make turbine housings that are twin entry, but single scroll. if someone could get their hands on one that could mate up to an IHI CHRA, i could test single and twin back-to-back with changes only with the turbine/scrolls. Kinugawa's replacement TWIN ENTRY turbo for VF36/37 equipped cars is one of these faux TS turbo's. I believe their turbine castings are for VF36 CHRAs though, which are different than VF37 CHRAs (ball bearing vs. journal, etc.). At least they told me that they're twinscroll turbine housing would only mate to a VF36 without machine work (back when i was having a hard time sourcing an un-modded TS turbine housing). as for tubular manifolds, our crosspipes are tubular 304 as well, with at least 4x weld joints (flange-flex-flex-flange), as well as our uppipes (same weld joints here for 07+, i suspect more for earlier MY). granted, they just have heatshields on USDM cars, no real insulation (a little in one of the cast manifold shield).