Flinkly

you're going to DIY it? otherwise i'm sure a tint shop has the tool necessary to check your tint level and add as appropriate. obviously...

after my second gauge pod design change, i always have made mine too small. much easier to remove material than to add it back. second pod had holes too large even though the model supplied was for 52mm.

yeah, alot of people swear by only getting OEM front O2. Heuberger probably has a decent price and has them in stock. too bad you just missed their memorial sale.

that all fits under the flares??

probably is just to keep the flare from rubbing on the paint/fender then, and i've just lost some foam. does make me wonder why i thought it was coming off though. maybe one of my clips is off/loose/broken. will have to look closer at what i have going on. regardless, even though i'll probably never roll my fenders, i've greatly appreciated all you've posted so far. and keep up the hard (but worthwhile) daddy daycare work

huh, i have been noticing one of my rear flares is showing a gap on the front, and some foam. was thinking about how much of a pain it would be to "fix" whatever is letting it come off, but you make it look so easy. Is the foam along the top edge just there to fill any gap, or is it sticky (or supposed to be sticky) on both sides?

don't forget that the front and rear bumpers are different to blend with the flares.

whatever you do, don't give your oem ones back as core. they're worth their weight in gold. would for sure reboot/rebuild them.

my moogs are zerked front and rear. which is why when Rhitter called them "moogs" that i was surprised there weren't zerks.

no zerk fittings?

wow, Raxles has an email address for quotes/inquiries/etc. will report back with some general pricing when they write me back. EDIT: holy carp, they charge $200 for a front turbo 5MT axle and additional shipping ($60 for me). $280 if you don't ship back a core. shipping a core back would only net me ~$20 savings... maybe i'll just look at getting new OEM axles ($325 from Heuberger) or some junkyard axles.

come on, you can't whistle for the vultures and then leave them in a holding pattern all day long... well, you can. but you'll end up with a bunch of hangry vultures.

cool. so we can start posting the list of parts we want from your horde?

is the leak of the master cylinder from replacing the dampener with a bolt and crush washer? or just a leaky MC?

wow, those white pins locate it to the plastic frame within the dash. cool idea for rough X/Y alignment and a firm Z alignment. and then it looks like 4 locating points on the front to align to the opening. good ideas right there for cubby replacement parts. wish you could 3d scan the exterior...

and boxkita's even got a bidding war going on for who gets some of them. just have to wait for the right buyers and timing...

not that i need or will be buying a clutch today, but it's killing me to find out how the clutch feels. granted, it's more important to know how it is 2k miles from now. hurry up! but don't drop any giant pieces of metal again in your rush to connect all the little parts back up...

just as long as you don't lover the car...

partsouq sells new subaru ones for like $54 each. compared to $120 each last time i looked. $30-ish shipping and since international, fairly quick.

true, i'm sure the tighter gap is for the 18 to 24 psi crowd. i also couldn't find the same info on the ngk plugs. from their info, our regular plugs are the best. will keep digging as it sounds interesting.

Sprank told me to gap the plugs i got from him to .026-.028 to me, his info is pretty close up there to gospel, due to his experience. just another data point.

forum law dictates that pictures of said part(s) must be posted, in situations like this.

ever thought or tried to run lean at idle and/or really low load? just pondering it on the way home. my stock rom has 14.4-ish as a target at idle (rich) rather than leaner...

yeah, mostly giving you a hard time. depending on where you look, the STI manifold has tighter distribution of flow to each cylinder, and flows maybe 6% better. definitely lower hanging fruit as far as cost and work involved. And i'm in the same boat with E85. nowhere to get it. Would you do a TGV delete? and would you remove the center rib? I guess for the early cars it only functions at startup, so not a lot if any efficiency to be had from retaining them.

do you have the transmission undertray on order yet?