Flinkly

You could make two seperate pods and put the gauge clamp/screw on the bottom, then just make a plate to span the steering column and hold them both. That should lower cost and make it easy to hide the screws/bolts.

Two questions- - How the heck did you find someone selling everything off the top of their sti block? Totall'd car? - I ask this cause I'm sure you know, the 08+ sti TGV's mate to our manifolds without mods, correct? Unclemat asserted that years ago and wanted to double check. Sent from my XT1028

Yeah, been programming it at work in spare time and i keep getting those comments. Need to find a project (pencil) box, to carry it around inside instead of leaving it so bare. And maybe some extra wires... Sent from my XT1028

Done! (with the program, Rev 1.0. Already have more features I'm going to be implementing... )

there keeps being talk of reducing weight at the corners, but no LGT's are switching over to the smaller OBXT brakes....

Not that it isn't super easy to say all this from my porcelain throne since i don't have to do anything but egg y'all on... Sent from my XT1028

That's a flat out lie! I'd pull eBay in on that one. They sold a product to you at a price, and they should honor it. Granted, CarID is going to get the benefit of the doubt from eBay...

Hmm, i never thought of this thread to talk about it, but i'm currently adapting an arduino micro and 4x 4 digit 7 segment displays to put 4 guage readouts in my cubby box (afr and vacuum/boost for now, but planning to add oil pressure and something else later -opinions?). The code is almost written/complete, so maybe i'll model/make the 3d printed cubby pod and smoked plexi cover to hold them next week. I am replacing my dual 52mm gauge setup because: - i most often read the digital readout rather than the led sweep - it'll be cheaper than buying more gauges and sensors(the 7segments are $10 each, and the arduino to run up to 8 displays is like $15) - and i could/can fit way more information within the cubby location (4 for now, but coukd probably fit 8 if i desired - might looked cramped though. Not that i can think of 8 things i'd want to see all the time while driving. I think 4 will be enough.). Sent from my XT1028

Wait, and these are ~8lbs a piece? I guess the $250 pricetag on aluminum spec bits isn't so worth it anymore... Now $8 dollars? Sure! Sent from my XT1028

yeah, probably are stopping the ones that haven't shipped out yet. sorry peeps who didn't get out the door fast enough!

That's bullsh1t. maybe they should pay better attention.

Yeah, I make expensive decisions, and sometimes mistakes, all the time. You take the blow, fix it, and continue moving forward. Tis human to make mistakes!

i wish i could jump on board, but can't use these parts on a stock ride height OBXT... i guess i could buy and re-sell for $200 on CL! "Box of Perrin Silicone Coolant Hoses - $5 for the box!"

Lets be honest, 4 bucks plus shippjng, correct? Sent from my XT1028

As far as the Subaru parts department kits, there appears to be an expensive part number ($90+), and a cheap ($35) part number for the inner boot kit. not sure why. I suspect your parts counter guy found the first and didn't know to keep looking...

Thank you for taking the time time to lay that all out so well. Incredibly informative, as always. Read over alot of sti swap threads and that single post might top them all. Sent from my XT1028

Any details on what STI parts and "custom" parts were needed for such a clean STI intake/TMIC swap? i'm interested in ditching my AVO LGT TMIC for STI parts.

Yeah, a place in portland is/was doing work to convert legacy/outback to accept sti hubs. Probably worth looking at for this. Sent from my XT1028

If you REALLY hate it, can always buy the front panels of an older gen outback/legacy and swap it on. Can get back to an aluminum hood that way too. I've also been planning a 3d printed honeycomb "cover", but haven't had the time. A grill on my desk would make it way easier to design though, if anyone knows where to get one inexpensively. Sent from my XT1028

one last thing: since the LGT/OBXT (at least MY08) has this thick-flanged cast aluminum pipe on the drivers side instead of a thin-flanged (5mm) steel welded pipe like on the passenger side, you will need new bolts to put a delete plate on the drivers side. I say this since not all kits come with bolts and KSTech (who has nice parts, no disrespect intended) states that you can for sure re-use the original bolts. this might be true for WRX and STI, but not LGT or OBXT (at least in my experience with my MY08 OBXT). I also don't know what length or thread the bolts need to be, but even at KSTech, they only charge an additional $3 for the bolts, so not a big deal to order em up at the same time (it only sucks if you don't order them and shipping costs more than the parts, on top of not being able to complete the install ).

Sopposed to look just like their other subaru one, just a different maf attachment i believe. Sent from my XT1028

I put together a 2 guage cubby pod for 3d printing, but could be "disassembled" to make it routable. I found after several revisions that tying into the clock back screw location made for a more robust design. EDIT: I've never paid attention to time/material my designs take though as that's never been a restriction where I get my stuff made. I did try to make the faceplate and back separate once, but the glues I tried never held up in the hotbox that is the dash.

Canards, etc. Sent from my XT1028

The suspense is killing me!

yeah, giving you a heard time. 52 or 60 mm? looks pretty hefty, but that could just be the small size of the vent.