Flinkly

The suspense is killing me!

yeah, giving you a heard time. 52 or 60 mm? looks pretty hefty, but that could just be the small size of the vent.

is that a hose connection to pipe AC direct into your racing helmet?

You don't have to (i didn't), but it will make it 95% easier, i'd assume. Alot of different tools to try to get it, alot of blood, alot of curse words. If you pull it with the manifold on, the key is to remove the studs it's on first. Sent from my XT1028

I figured. Didn't want to remove it and realize it has a dual purpose. I also wanted to contribute to the "this is what you can/will remove" picture. And thanks again for the great thread and information available here. It is all super helpful, and not just this thread. Sent from my XT1028

Top left is where the delete plate and "gasket" are, and it looks like it routes down to the right, then back to the left and into the head. Seems like i can put the cap right on the head vs. the end of this fancy pipe. Sent from my XT1028

so, I was changing my oil and doing a general inspect on the car last night, and on the back of the head on the drivers side is a chunk of cast aluminum that I believe is leftover from the air pump delete, and looks useless. i'll have to get a pic of it (hands were a mess last night, so wasn't about to pull out the phone), but my block off plate is on the end of this cute little cast pipe, and it looks like I could just remove it and put my plate right on the block, and shave off maybe another 100 grams from the car. I didn't see it in the "pile of removed crap" in the first few posts, which is why i'm asking if I need it. i'll also have to see what I can see on the passengers side, but I imagine it's not there, cause i'm pretty sure that's where that cute little welded pipe came from, as I guess the turbo makes it a little tight to replicate the cast part on the passenger side. EDIT: I think you're looking at the end of the cast part in pic "air pump 8" and "air pump 9". and it goes towards the center of the engine, then angles back towards the plugs, then right angle into the head. has a very similar looking mount on the head, and looks super easy to remove from below with all the space available behind the head on the drivers side.

pic or something of the Y block? Also, given the idea behind the FPR location/use on the 07-09 LGT/OBXTs, what is really the best way to route? Have a fuel manifold, have 4 lines out that feet each end of the rails (2 for each rail), and then attach the FPR to the manifold as well and allow excess pressure/fuel to go back to tank before getting too hot (and carry the hot fuel that's in the lines out the injectors)? so many ways to skin a cat, but these stock lines/system has some ridiculous issues. So have you zero'd your per injector IPW comp tables and don't have any significant dips or spikes in your correction/learning?

also, as good of a place as any, I made a custom adapter for my stock 08 FPR location (I believe 07-09 LGT and OBXT, 08-14 WRX) to replace it with a different FPR, and have 5 extras (cost for 1 vs. 5 was insignificant). FPR location adapter on one side, stock hose sized barb on the other. re-use screws and o-ring from FPR. stainless barb section press fit into aluminum part.

so details on the fuel supply? so input goes over to passenger side rail, then drivers side rail, then FPR and back out? or does it come in, T off and feed both rails, then exit both rails, T back together and then to FPR and out?

Me, but didn't fix my issue, but i'm not on stock fueling. I believe the stumbles i have are different. Sent from my XT1028

IAG fuel manifolds in the pic (and probably topfeed tgv deletes). I assume all the lines in the engine bay are new and routed differently too. Basically, his entire fueling system in the bay is aftermarket. Sent from my XT1028

I literally just stumbled on this in ECUFlash, but wanted to post in case I forgot about it. My ROM has an "A/F #1 Learning Threshhold" Min and Max. From the table description, it sounds like you can set the min and max value that learning #1 will be applied to vs. MAF g/s, so you could make it so learning D didn't apply to open loop by keeping learning #1 from being applied above 40 g/s (or whatever your open loop MAF flow is). Mine reads strange in the stock ROM though, so I think I need ROM specific tables. it has -30 as the minimum, and .25 as the maximum. FYI.

I liked your mention of the removal of backseat headrests. I did that too ages ago, for several reasons. Unobstructed rear view, almost never have backseat passengers, when putting the back seats down, the headrest always gets tight against my wife's (passenger) seat, and i used to have the seats down most of the time for the dog passenger, and found it easier to stash groceries behind my seat in the footwell without headrests. Alot of that will change when baby arrives in a month though. Probably will put the center headrest back for the rear facing seat mirror, and seats will probably always be up. Sent from my XT1028

Sounds like a Triumph GT6 light housing. No new parts, only 30+ year old ones that are ancient and broken. Sent from my XT1028

2 things, first is i heard that on 07+ uses tumbling more than at idle. Second, while it sounds redic, could one just remove the plugs and the CELs and leave the valves, motors and sensors in place? Will they stay open if unplugged? Sent from my XT1028

At least on mine, top is feed, bottom is return. The one with the regulator is the return either way. It only allows fuel to flow past if it's over the 43 psi or whatever it's supposed to be. Sent from my XT1028

Tried zero'ing individual ipw comp tables and logging? I think that might be part of my problem; real life fueling no longer matches with stock ipw comp tables. Not that i know much about what i'm talking about. Sent from my XT1028

I had to go buy the cheapo harbor freight plastic quick disconnect tool set. The plastic has enough give to slip it in past the ridge. $6 for a set at the HF. Had originally boght a single $12 dollar metal tool at napa. Sent from my XT1028

oooooooh, could use the rear "O2" input AND location for a wideband. already removed it's contribution to the ECU/Tune and it's CELs anyways. is there a rear O2 logging param in RR? (my logging laptop is in the Subaru ATM...)

from what I've heard/read, it's more about protecting the side of the sensor that's not in the exhaust from heat, so it's not a heatsink, it's more of a heatshield. deflects heat from the exhaust pipe away from the sensor. either wrap, coat, or add a little round heatshield (washer) under the WB02. Edit for clarity, the "washer" shouldn't/doesn't need to be thick (no fender washers). just drill a hole for the O2 sensor in some thin steel and then cut the outer edges to your preferred geometric shape. round just sounds less likely to cut/poke any electricals or hands.

oh man, I guess i'm getting TGV deletes... I guess at least I can check my gaskets and replace at least. I looked at other potential inputs and didn't find any good ones. the 07+ air pump only has a ms-based input, so no go there. So two questions: what are the downsides to TGV deletes? Cold start engine unhappiness? Are people using direct wideband outputs or feeding the wideband to their manufacturers sensor box and then taking the wideband output from there to the TGV?

Yeah, depending on the guage, i've got one that i made and use also. STL, IGES, whatever you'd like. Door closes here too. If you do roll your own, pivoting the guages towards the driver i've found pointless. Its not like they're hard to see at all pointing straight out the cubby, IMO. Sent from my XT1028

Lol, i hear ya. I'm about to tear off some parts to "eliminate" them as variables to solve fueling issues. Sent from my XT1028

Looks like a wee bit of latency adjustment and a bump in scalar is in order. Sent from my XT1028