Flinkly

Yeah, when i picked up a foot of new tubing at napa, they only had 5/32. Was looking for 3/16, but it seems to be working fine and is also what i used for my boost guage. I've also been toying with cleaning my TB to see if that helps at all with smoothing idle. Overall, the new sti fpr, extra foot of fuel hose, and new fpr reference connection have eliminated the "tip-out" stumble for me, but only moved my harmonics up a few hundred rpm. Win some, lose some. Oh, and you're right, obviously. The bov line and 5/32 hose both stretched fine over 1/8 inch barbed t's i had from autozone. Sent from my XT1028

Covert, how did you choose the timing to go along with your AVCS angle when testing different AVCS angles at cruise? or did you leave timing alone and just change AVCS?

I think we need to add a new T to the lineup. Same as is now, but the t'd off nipple should be for 5/32" hose ID. Specific to FPR reference line from BOV reference line hose. Also, i just redid my layout of hoses. Didn't have a nipple or screw to plug the original FPR port, so put it into a T and made a little circle. Reference taken right at BPV, and took the extra length out of my boost guage line. Car still works, but so far can't butt-sense the change yet. More logging to come. Sent from my XT1028

yeah, it'll help everywhere, but the biggest impact will be with cleaner idle due to lower fuel harmonics at such low IPW (low quantity of fuel [requested] vs. "large" fuel oscillation noise). at load, the additional noise isn't preferred, but if fueling is properly tuned, should only cause oscillation around zero, and compared to the amount of fuel requested, should have lower impact on roughness or incorrect fueling. I mean, at load, this shouldn't be fixing any fueling corrections that don't oscillate around zero. I guess i'm thinking of my fueling harmonics that cause +5% and +10% humps in my fueling correction vs. RPM. so overall, yeah it should be better than before, but I would expect the most impact being a cleaner/smoother idle. followed by just a less noisy fueling correction across the board. I think i'll: redo my reference to the BOV line log zero my load comp and IPW comp tables again log and see what happens to my remaining harmonics. cause they still exist, but can't find a correlation to any causes yet, except that they seem to line up well to RPM, and they did move with the new FPR and additional hose length (can't really tell if they moved to lower or higher RPM, cause they happen at "regular" intervals. I think it got a little higher 1.7k -> 2.1k for one). that points me towards fuel harmonics, but I can't figure out what's causing them. ECU? FPR? Exhaust? Intake? AVCS? ugh.... Maybe if I give her a good wash and new tires she'll love me again and just start to behave better.

drivers side. between fuse box and brake cylinder, unless 07-09, then on drivers side between intake runners. i'd do the new reference line for cleaner idle and new FPR or more hose for stumble at speed. IMO, I think the reference line change is likely to only improve idle, as I can't imagine the noise causing too much issue at non-idle. non-idle issues i'd guess are most likely caused by something else (not to say that a rough idle couldn't be caused by things other than reference line).

you should rotate that sh*t over. or at least that's the way I roll. FPR nipple facing the engine rather than the tower. Not to say that i'm perfect. my FPR is just sitting in free space. couldn't mount it where I was going to due to useless MCBrace. Also, was thinking on the roll into work this morning, if AVCS is/can effect fueling by letting air thru during major overlap, it could just as well be affecting the pressure/vacuum that the FPR is seeing being so close to cylinder 4 intake. +1 for moving to BOV line.

Want to be at least post-turbo/compressor. Not alot of options. I do have my boost line t'd to that already, and that hose is redic long. Could get a t that splits of as 4.5mm, with a main body of 7/9mm. Turkeylord! Sent from my XT1028

While it might not be the most exciting tune ever, could I set AVCS at 0 or 10 and do logging (no boost) from idle to 3k without harm? might cause more noise from load comp. tables or IPW comp. tables though, not that either is very accurate anymore anyways.

a thought I keep having: Could AVCS cause increased correction, because air is flowing thru the cylinder and out at high AVCS angles?

good idea (Cobb's updated fix). Well, the gist of my "fix" is that it didn't fix my harmonics. I ended up adding ~18 inches more of line, plus the STI FPR (added the extra line cause the damn GS MC Brace was in the FPR's way. useless part, need to tear it out and sell it to some newb). It did APPEAR to literally quiet up my engine as well as moved my harmonics and lower them a few percent of correction (lets say +10% down to +7%). I'll admit I'm at my wit's end trying to fight with my fueling issues. more logging to come.

yeah, i'll end up with equal or less fuel hose, as i'm doing the same. can't copy the OP's methods though, Subaru felt a more difficult to remove FPR location was in order, and other than having to go to some ridiculous methods to remove one of the two screws holding it on (Phillips head? come on Subaru...) I "had" to make this to adapt the new STI to my fueling: http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z471/flinkly/Subaru/Fuel%20Pressure%20Regulator/P1020177.jpg

do ya'll wax (or something) your wheels to make cleaning a little easier? not that I can imagine wax surviving hot brake dust very well...

tell me more. I've scratched up the bottom of my steering wheel with a mechanical pencil clip in my right pants pocket. did a lot of damage before I figured out where the marks were coming from. i'm too afraid to do something to the wheel though, cause I NEED to touch it a lot.

2 problems with that.... First your hitch hasn't gone into production yet, second I don't have a trailer small enough for the spec.B to pull... BAM! what'cha gotta say to that, frank_ster?!?

Not the exact same, but apparently cheaper (895 for a rooftop 2 person): http://www.cascadiatents.com/Roof-Top-Tents.htm?m=87&s=615 Sent from my XT1028

Congrats! I'll be following suit in 2 months. Sent from my XT1028

I wouldn't replace an axle that isn't broken open or making noise, and i'd just reboot it as long as it's not making noise. get the kit (35 direct from Subaru), do a good cleaning, and get it back on. re-booting is cheap and easy, reman axles aren't terrible but are still a little risky IMO and require trial and error sometimes, and new OEM axles are just too dam expensive.

called around a lot yesterday and got quoted 125 a wheel and lifetime warranty. not good for curb rash, but if it peels or yellows, i'm covered. in actuality, I'm only really looking for a 10-foot paintjob. just something clearner than what they are now, covered in chips and rash. Also gonna get a good deal on some DWS06's. finally rid of these terrible Dunlops I've ridden on for years...

I would still triple check that the cup on the transmission side has the appropriate 3 "dimples" as an OEM axle does. the reman place that everyone gets their axles from says that 7336 works in an f-ton of vehicles, a lot of which aren't Subaru's. so far for me, only 1 in 3 axles I've tried to get at the local autozone have been "correct". the one I have installed currently has served me well for several years, and so has the rebooted OEM axle I've got.

yeah, it's becoming real clear why people roll this way. I actually pulled a bad black plastidip job off them when I got them. didn't even clean the wheel first, or put on very many coats except the face. pain just to peel. was going to rattle can em too, with Wurth paint, but with a baby on the way, I just don't have the time these days, and expect to have none when she arrives. gah. need to become independently wealthy, quickly, somehow...

Yikes! one shop wants 1k to strip and repaint all 4 wheels. Another wants $600. Am I barking up the wrong tree's or are these normal prices? both are for "normal" BBS silver and clearcoat. I guess I was thinking it'd be closer to $400-450 for the set...

Yeah, quoting for refinishing at the moment here. Sent from my XT1028

WHEEL WIGHTS ON THE RIM OF BBS WHEELS!!!! Blasphemous!

Lol, so i put some river rock on craigslist for free and a little baja showed up to claim it. I'd take pics but that seems sketch. Owner said he loves it, but if he had it to do all over, he'd get the turbo. Sent from my XT1028

no pics (shoulda, coulda, woulda...) but I've often taken my wife and inlaws backpacking with the dog in the wagon. 3 packs wide, one on the end, dog bed on top, all in the back. room to spare for the little things like a little cooler of beer and a bag of chips for when we get back to the car. the inlaws in the back get plenty of room, only have to deal with dog kisses. as I've said before, I have no idea why sedans exist. just wasting that space above the trunk, and most sedans don't get rear wipers either.