Flinkly

lol, nvm. found the answer i was looking for. were any of them (other than the original) a subaru parts counter sensor?

report back in 1k on the clutch breakin. just letting you know that someones interested. i also have lugging. maybe O2... interesting.

win-win!

doesn't the legacy trailing arm have something different at the front pivot? like a spacer or a longer bracket? *goes to look on opposedforces* https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x-4zl3IqQVs/TM2f8QCpGfI/AAAAAAAAMv4/w99sd3mAyjc/s640/DSCN9462.JPG if the internet is right today, the legacy bracket is on the left, outback on the right.

i think his WRX arrived in the mail fairly soon after the OBXT went down. coincidentally.

Covert, i know you did the clutch master cylinder damper removal, but did you remove the one inside the slave? You did the master and ss line change around post 825

covert doesn't have a spec b, does he? i was pretty sure he's done both, but maybe i'm mistaken... edit: halfway... (post 825 in his build thread) https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Fp%3D5568939&share_tid=218363&share_fid=5383&share_type=t&share_pid=5568939

great, then you won't need all those LGT 5MT front axles. canz i haz one or more?

toilets have been doin it for years! float valves! oh, and our gas tanks do. or do you mean like the passenger seat sensor kinda thing? heat will change the answer again. all good ideas. edit: oh, and it's a relatively pressurized system too (at least when the car is on). need to make a comprehensive requirements list...

maybe on the splashguard. depends on space and surface tension. need space around the thermistor so you don't hold some liquid (oil) back and give false full reading. depends on liquid temp too. lots of requirements to keep track of. thermistors also require calibration and only work in a certain temp zone. it's for sure possible. i'd error towards a red/green led to just say empty or not empty. not alot of "depth" difference to do much more.

we actually do "level sense" stuff inside our products (some of them at least). never thought about this as an application for it. it's hard to do in general. our easiest was a thermistor bead based sensing where submersion in the liquid caused cooling, and when the level gets too low, it comes out and heats up. could add a second thermistor at a different height to track "full" as well as "empty". would only work at rest, or would be best to check before starting each time, like roll to accessory position and check, then start engine if you like the answer. sounds simple, depending on the dipstick path into the engine. we also have done optical and conductive. nothing's perfect or easy...

yeah it's worth it, but i think it also depends on the use case. as in, i think it's worth it (and better when in conjunction with heatshields) on daily drivers where exhaust temps probably aren't high and for sure don't stay high. most DDs arent't tuned at the edge of high performance either. as you said, for a racecar it may be better not to do it on 303ss tube (thin or "thick") or cast. might still be iffy for better ss tubular manifolds. might have to fix cracks often i presume and would have to remove a bit of swaintech to get there. but maybe it won't break your bank next year to try it out. it's ~$120 for a turbine housing (i have mine done), ~$250 for a header (depending on length merges, etc.). oh, plus shipping back and forth... [emoji4] coating the inside would be awesome, since you want the heat to stay inside, and the metal is just pulling it out and dumping it into the air/engine bay. but on pre-turbo piping, that's a bad idea (no coating has perfect adhesion over life and a few flakes can trash a turbine). and the "ceramic" paint's (VHT for rattle cans, Techline for "official" stuff) are just too thin and not nearly as much ceramic to do anything but dress up the parts you paint.

well, i am an engineer, and functionally speaking the USDM OEM stuff is amazing for the price to create. 2 piece sammich of thin steel with an airgap to the hot part is the best bang for the buck, mostly in a mass production world. Used to work on some products that literally sat at 120C all day long, and to make improvements for power, we had to find new and better ways to insulate it. our stuff doesn't have to get and stay so hot anymore. but then you get to the JDM stuff which has ceramic (not flexible, but similar to a felt as far as physical composition) wrapped around the SS thin walled pipes, and then you sammich that with similar heatshields. the biggest difference with these metal shields pieces is that they also sammich the joint between sections, unlike our exposed flanges/bolts/gaskets. but the STI has a higher markup, and so they can do more expensive stuff, and are expected to wring more performance from the engine too. all depends on your needs for: cost, reliability and performance. as always, you can't have your cake and eat it too. going to have to give up a little of something to get a little of something else.

i was gonna say, at the least the manifolds and crossover look to be stock, and so should be easy peasy to get OEM heatshields sourced and installed. When you win the lottery, can always spend that money on swaintech coating as well, but not this year.

where should we all start sending our parts requests? Boxkita.used.parts@gmail.com?

just be sure to hit a stud with all your mount points, as medium sized clay pots, dirt, water and plants will all add up. not that you aren't aware.

i feel like i've entered a different world. which i guess i have; the gun "nut" world. so many acronyms and opinions that i can't begin to fathom.

you should add the OBXT into your rev list. ya know, cause i drive one and am too busy to do the numbers. and where's the paypal donation link?

i hear you there. have so many questions about how my car was before i put in new injectors. too late to ask those questions!

i was going to wait for a few days, but yeah, when are you going to source some spare heads to have ported for the testing, covert? should start putting a paypal donation link in your signature

i don't think i coukd have said it better. i'm an engineer and can see both sides. should be able to swap in new injectors, change two values and go. but alas, someone just fudged tables to get it out the door... it is already a complicated system, and is worse cause the tables are used to do things they shouldn't be.

why didn't you post this years ago!?! lol just don't give up. misery loves company, and like covert, i appreciate your work.

well, my insurance doesn't cover rot or mold. so all that damage is off the claims table. not sure much of anything will be covered, but we'll see. almost a $2k deductible too. insurance is balogna.

one caliper mount point is on the knuckle, the other is on the bracket., and the bracket attaches to the two knuckle mount locations too. which if you can imagine all that in your minds eye, is why the caliper isn't concentric and the pad overhangs a little. to your actual question, you'd have to remove material from a knuckle mount or from a caliper mount. and to me, modifying like that for such an important system is too much.

and that's the other thing, how will insurance rape me for filing a claim for $10k?