Flinkly

from the random threads i found from a google search, at least some people thought of linseed oil as refinishing. Honestly sounded like doing nothing at all was the "best" course of action. Or if it had been yours it's whole life and you always rubbed the entire gun down with Rem. oil, you should just keep doing it. I'll probably never have it out in the rain, and won't be dragging it through the forest to hunt, so i probably don't need to do a dang thing and just accept it's appearance as "natural".

k, so i'll admit i'm not a big gun guy as i'm not a gun hunter and not much of a bow hunter in recent years, but i just received a Winchester 94 from my father, and it was either his fathers or father-in-laws (I had a fever when he dropped it off, so he didn't stay long and i just accepted it and don't remember what if any history he may have told me then). ANYWAYS, it's well used and the buttstock has the finish worn off the closer you get to the butt. so it sounds like refinishing is a big no-no, and it is a pre-64 (not that i'll sell it), so... ...what can i do to protect the "raw" wood that won't be seen as sacrilege? Granted, like a turbo subaru oil post, i'm sure there will be limitless opinions. but gotta start somewhere. Honestly considering getting some sort of furniture replacement set and just setting the original parts aside. Also, looking to get a peep sight for it and will do as thorough a teardown as I feel comfortable with before taking it to the range to see how she does after 67 years of use.

shims are for between rotor and hub to center it in the caliper. as for wheels that fit, you'll have to trudge through the multiple threads on the subject (one here, one on Nasioc, etc.). All i know is they don't work with 04 STI BBS wheels, mostly cause the caliper is too "tall" and contacts the barrel. some have shaved the caliper down to make things fit with their wheels too, but with such an important system, i'd rather not go to those lengths. I think you generally have to go to 18's for an "almost sure" fit, and if you have 17's the odds are against you. fitment issues are both barrel and spoke related, where at least with spoke clearance issues you can add spacers if you are comfortable with that and potentially investing in longer lugs.

Alright, we're off track. lets agree to disagree about buy vs. rent and get back to pictures (and discussion) of home improvement. Thanks!

so throwing away lets say $1.2k in rent each month is better than putting that or less money into a home? even if all homes gained equal value, you would still "win" financially with buying a home in the long run (just to spell it out, you'd "win" cause most of that money you pay to a mortgage or to buy a home is still yours when you sell/move. rent goes to someone elses pocket, and when you move you don't get anything back.)

home ownership isn't always roses, but it is the right way to go for some/most people.

yeah, while we haven't been living here long, it appears to have been a long term issue and i get the feeling that they'll not cover it. It for sure has been going on before we purchased the home. cost to fix the leaking window seal (which i'm still not sure is the cause) was going to be at least $2.5k in labor as well as new cedar shingles and sealing material. and paint down the road, since the construction guys don't do paint. happy 2018.

damn. no pictures yet but we have a leaky front window that we have someone out to fix today and it's gonna be a BIG fix. water damage and some siding and brick being redone. ugh. was already going to be a $5k-ish fix if things went well. things didn't go well.

i think he's adding a little more poo for the pooh cup.

an early post shows that the caliper/pad and rotor are not aligned and so the pad does overlap a little. mostly due to the offset mount to use the stock knuckle and one stock mount point.

I have this one saved in my Amazon wishlist, but i honestly have no idea about AEM fuel pumps. Consider this a starting place: AEM 50-1215 (320lph) the DW65c would be fine on pump. you could also not use the vf52 to absolute total potential and not swap out injectors or pump.

the issue with DW65c that i've heard about is that it doesn't work well with E85. otherwise it's fine. the DW300 is the one i've heard most switching to if using E85. AEM also has a direct drop in, but the Whalbro requires modification of the pump housing, meaning you'll have to get a new one if you want to get a different kind. I've had a whalbro, and it was fairly loud and replaced it and the housing with DW65c.

i wish we had something like that. is it from Subaru or an afternarket hitch supplier? should send one stateside for us to tear apart and replicate. if it fits under a euro bumper, it'll work for us. all of ours hang lower than the spare wheel well, by say 2 inches. would be cool to get something more flush/stealth.

For the rash of new mods, i'm surprised you haven't turned the same color as your car, Covert. To make my post on topic, you might damage the paint on installation or during first use, prior to heating the calipers up to 200 F for an hour. not sure about anyone else, but i don't think my calipers get that hot ever. Sure, the rotor and pad (maybe...), but not the caliper...

* subbed for next years spark plug install and results

progress...

honestly, at least where i'm at in life, i only DIY something that i can use the experience on later. that's one reason why i don't do bodywork. spend the time, money and effort to get my experience level up, only to never need/do it again. also, my time is worth tons of $$$. i'd ship it off. it was free, so at most, you'll get a sweet "new" transmission for used price.

getting (almost) all new floors installed. solid oak downstairs (cept bathroom and laundry) and new carpet/pad upstairs (cept bathrooms). $$$$$$. It's gonna be great when it's over though, cause i'll have a new gas range and microwave along with all the floor. and the wife can stop worrying about everything but the master bathroom. we can also start on the new nursery finally (nesting...).

oh yeah, still super cool. a different solution to the same problem as the Prius thermos (it "locks" down hot coolant on shutdown for use on next startup).

man, i was so wrong on this one. it does take heat from the exhaust, but it uses it to heat the coolant during warmup for shorter warmup time (and to heat passengers faster, lol). it also is the 2016 Malibu. http://media.chevrolet.com/media/us/en/chevrolet/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2015/mar/0325-malibu.html

The 2014 Malibu had an extreme WAI system, where it literally exchanged heat with the post-cat exhaust. would be awesome to have a system that could swap between that and "regular" air vs. boost pressure (mechanical vacuum/pressure actuator). but i do remember your work in regards to the earlier tests. and would be quite the system to do an extreme WAI. my light thinking is that the majority of the savings from a grill block would come regardless of recess. sure, the deeper it is the more turbulent you make air near it, but it's crazy turbulent already regardless, and the more you get to go around rather than through, the better. i figured i'd just cover up at the inside lip of the opening, which seems like 6" deep. the recess will "fill" with air and the rest will go around.

TMIC/FMIC is something else to think about. could mock up a TMIC delete tube and stay out of boost and test it's restriction/change. also can pull in "hot" air (WAI). not that you don't know, but warmer air is less dense, so need more for the same amount of fuel, so throttle needs to be further open. there are also crazier things, like switching to a STI intake for it's higher and more even flow. i assume this is out since it's ~$500 for used parts and quite a bit of work to swap. So any plans on where to start? TGV deletes are easy. can just remove the butterfly and test, and if you really want to go for the gusto, can grind out the rib (anr/or "port" match). I assume coatings are out (intake for flow, heads for heat), and head modifications. and who said grill blocks had to be ugly? i'm planning to do a lower grill opening block that's honeycomb front, solid back.

going to stick with the custom 3"? i've always wanted to clip the stock exhaust before the Y and do a single 2.5" back. it's too bad the old sti muffler is too big, always thought about sourcing one of those to tuck up underneath. guess it'll be a ProXS if i do it. So when are you going to test some custom bellypans? i assume you've got the stock front tray and the two underbody pieces. or a lower grill block...

Looking at the specific wilwoods for that kit, it seems SBT is correct. no replacement dust boot available (NA), which leads me to believe that there isn't one to replace. http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd.aspx?itemno=120-11132 Other wilwood calipers may be different.

holy cow, you've figured it out! my asshole IS offended!